Detailed Explanation of Succulent Root Pruning Techniques and Methods

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The root system is everything to a plant. The condition of a succulent and the plumpness of its leaves are both related to the health of its root system. Good teeth mean a good appetite, and good roots mean a fat succulent - that's roughly what it means! After a succulent grows for a period of time (about 1-2 years), some roots will die off. There are many reasons: bacterial infection, soil compaction, etc. That is why repotting is needed to clean out these dead roots. Once roots die, not only does it affect the plant's absorption, but if the wound becomes infected, it will continue to spread, affecting healthy roots, and finally spreading to the plant itself. The common phenomena of rot and blackening are exactly this.
For newly purchased succulents, most still need root pruning. As for those rootless succulents, although for beginners they easily fail to grow roots and die, in fact, as long as you master the rooting method, rootless succulents are actually easier to keep alive, especially those big fat ones from Europe.
Method/Steps
One,
After receiving a healthy succulent, do not be overjoyed just because it has many roots. Take the "Dahe Meini" (Echeveria 'Daghestan') in the picture below as an example. The succulent's leaves are already very healthy, and it has many roots. Many flower lovers would plant it and water it right away after receiving it, but this is actually not scientific. On careful observation, you will find that the roots at the very bottom are basically all dead.
If you plant it directly and water it, the new roots will grow very slowly, and these dead roots may trigger some diseases. After planting for a period of time, the bottom leaves will most likely turn to mush and rot. In severe cases, it will cause the center of the leaves to turn to mush and the whole plant to die. At this point, you need to cut it off cleanly! For the sake of this little companion's future, be a bit ruthless!
Two,
After pruning the roots, if there are dead leaves at the base of the leaves, they also need to be cleaned off.
These dead leaves often hide insect eggs, and too many dead leaves can easily trigger diseases.
Three,
If you don't have many succulents at home, I still highly recommend cleaning them up and then rinsing them with clean water, or soaking them in a potassium permanganate-type disinfectant solution. Doing so cannot 100% prevent succulents from infection or pest damage, but it can minimize the probability of disease and pests. However, I really have too many at home! Basically, after pruning and cleaning off the dead leaves, it's done. This is also the main reason why I have mealybugs at home all year round.
After everything is cleaned up, whether or not you rinsed with water, you must dry the roots. Turn the succulent over, place it root-side up in a shaded area without direct sunlight for 2-3 days. Depending on the weather and indoor environment, this may be extended by 2 days. Anyway, drying it for two extra days is no problem. In short, it must be thoroughly dried so that the wound where it was cut can heal. Then turn it back over and place it flat on dry soil (it is best if the bottom of the soil has a little moisture). After about a week, roots will grow. I know everyone's common problem at this stage is - turning it over to check if roots have grown! Be sure to control your hands!
Four,
Whether the root system needs pruning is not only related to the condition of the succulent, but also has a lot to do with the variety of the succulent. Here are some examples for your reference:
Varieties that need root pruning: Echeveria genus (Echeveria pulidonis, Echeveria chihuahuaensis, the Echeveria agavoides series, etc. - this category is very large, and those with especially many roots need particular attention), as well as Echeveria 'Black Ebony', Echeveria 'Orion', etc.!
Varieties that do not need much root pruning: Aeonium genus (Aeonium arboreum 'Zwartkop', Aeonium decorum 'Sunburst', etc.), Sedum genus (Sedum hispanicum, Sedum pachyphyllum, etc.), Graptopetalum mendozae, Senecio rowleyanus (string of pearls), Sedum rubrotinctum 'Aurora', Othonna capensis (ruby necklace), etc.
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