Water propagation of roses: the intro is simple, but what follows is the real challenge

Did you learn the summer rose water propagation method from last episode? In fact, throughout the whole water propagation process, the "intro" is simple; the real challenge lies mainly in the transplanting after rooting, and how to care for the plant after transplanting.

The reason transplanting after water propagation rooting is so troublesome is that the plant has just been moved out of water, and with so many leaves, transpiration will certainly be high, but the roots grown are not many, unable to supply the consumption of the whole plant. There is no way to get water, and nutrient supply is not in place either, so it is very hard for it to survive after being transplanted into soil.

The roots of water-propagated roses are exposed and can absorb air; once planted in soil, their ability to absorb air decreases and growth is affected. At this point, we can first choose a loose, breathable growing medium for transplanting, such as humus soil, plain sand, etc. Be sure to maintain breathability and drainage.

People often ask whether sawdust can be used for transplanting. Today let's talk about it here: it is best not to, because sawdust tends to compact after being soaked with water over time. First, its breathability is poor; second, the nature of sawdust itself is not quite suitable for roses, so we should consider other substrates instead.

As for the root length at transplanting time, there is no specific requirement; it depends on your own situation and preference. Most people transplant when roots are about 1cm, but I usually transplant when they are about 3cm, always feeling that longer roots mean a higher survival rate. Of course, some gardeners transplant when roots are only 1mm, and that is no problem either, but I just cannot muster that kind of boldness.

For the transplanting pot, just use a small one; do not make it too large. A once-and-for-all method has few benefits. It is better to put in a bit more effort yourself and change pots gradually as the plant grows; that is much more reliable.

When planting, everyone should be careful: at this time we are planting a small seedling that has already rooted, not a bare single stem. So be extremely careful; the new seedling is very fragile and can snap with one careless move, and the roots are few and small, unable to withstand any rough handling at all.

When transplanting, it is best to choose the soil-filling method, that is, hold the rose to be transplanted suspended in the air in the pot with one hand, keep its position, and fill soil with the other hand. It is best to fill with fine, soft soil rather than large, compacted clumps. After filling with soil, gently shake the pot so the soil and roots make fuller contact; you can also gently press the pot surface to make the soil fit snugly.

Because roses propagated by the water method have always been growing in water, they are highly dependent on water. Transplanted into soil, they will certainly not adapt to the environment for a while. To improve the survival rate, we can remove some leaves, place them in a shaded spot, and let them slowly recover. Do not rush to give them light. After 7 days of recovery, you can use an organic liquid fertilizer specially for roses, diluted 500 times, once a week to water the roots of the small seedlings, which can promote seedling growth and strengthen their growth.

Furthermore, you can spray more water around the flower pot for moisture retention. If you are afraid the water will evaporate too quickly and your own pace of life cannot keep up with watering, you can also cover the pot surface with plastic film to retain moisture.

The water propagation method for roses is certainly useful, but do not be careless and lose the little plant at the transplanting stage. As long as you retain moisture and let the rose slowly adapt to the soil environment, it can get through this difficult period!