Do you really know how important root trimming and root care are for succulents?

A few years ago I asked a veteran grower in the succulent circle: how should succulents be fertilized? The veteran said he basically does not use fertilizer. Most succulents originate in arid regions where the soil is poor, and he had never heard of anyone fertilizing them. With annual root trimming, watering, and the little fertilizer in the soil, that is enough for them to grow.

If anyone else had told me this, I would basically have laughed it off, but looking at this grower's 10-plus years of experience and his collection of over a thousand pots, believe it or not, I believe it.

In the past two years we have also tried trimming the roots of a very small number of succulents (the greenhouse does not have the manpower to trim every single one), and indeed we found that these plants grow better.

Of course, not trimming the roots does not necessarily mean the succulent will die; it just means poor absorption, and death or damage only occurs in extreme cases.The more common situation is that when the roots are poor, no matter how you water, the succulent just looks shriveled and half-dead.

When should roots be trimmed? And how should it be done?

Usually the best time to trim roots is right when the growing season begins, which is also why we are publishing this article today. Spring and autumn are the growing seasons after all~~~~

Plant root systems are usually divided into taproot systems and fibrous root systems. A taproot system is like a radish root, with one main root and fibrous roots growing around it. A fibrous root system, like that of the narcissus, has no thick main root, only fine fibrous roots. Among succulents, I have not yet seen an authoritative institution publish a classification of taproot and fibrous root systems, but from everyday observation I have found some similar ones. Whether they can be placed into these categories, we cannot know, but at any rate we understand what kind of roots need trimming. (A picture from an encyclopedia is cited here)

What usually needs trimming is roots that have aged and whose absorption is blocked. These roots all share one thing in common: there is no longer any fleshy tissue in the center of the root; it has either dried up or become severely woody.

All 3 kinds of roots shown in the picture above can be trimmed. For dried-up roots, we can trim them all off. For roots with a healthy main root and dried fibrous roots, we can trim off all the fibrous roots and keep the main root. For woody roots, they must be cut away completely until the white fleshy center of the root is exposed. If after trimming all the roots there is still none, then trim the stem along with them.

After trimming, it is completely bare. I personally like this shape, because it is very convenient for planting. A handful of fibrous roots is not an easy thing to handle when planting; I guess everyone has experienced this.

After trimming the roots, be sure to let the wounds dry. This drying is not drying in the sun, but placing them in a ventilated spot to dry slowly. Impatient friends, if you let them dry for 1 or 2 days and then pot them up, be careful that the soil must not be too wet, otherwise they will easily rot. If you let them dry for several more days, the soil can be slightly moist when potting up. Of course, after potting up they must not be placed directly in the sun. Rooting is relatively fast during the growing season. Some common varieties can take root in 1 week. The newly grown roots are white, and there will be some fuzzy, down-like things around them. This is not mold!!! It is a very, very healthy root state.

Once a few white new roots have appeared, you can water. At this point you will find that the few white roots that took 1 week to shrivel out may fill the pot in 2 or 3 days. Finally this succulent has completed its transformation and can begin to receive light and normal care.

So when buying imported succulents, many people ask whether they have roots. In fact, this is not very meaningful, because even if they have roots, I still suggest trimming the roots before planting. However, most Korean goods still have some roots now, and most European goods keep only the main root. In fact, the impact is not very big. Succulents themselves are very tenacious in vitality, and rooting is very fast.

Root care needs to maintain balance

I believe many friends tend to neglect or have an insufficient understanding of "root care." They often think it is enough to have soil and water. Moreover, everyone tends to pay more attention to the performance of the plant above the soil surface, which in turn leads to neglect of the micro-ecology below the soil surface.

For a long time, under the strong influence of Japanese and Korean styles, most people in domestic succulent cultivation have tended to think that only a grit-based, dust-free soil is the best growing medium. In fact, this view is very one-sided and is a typical case of copying without adapting. Under different cultivation environments and geographical climates, it is impossible to completely apply one cultivation system.

Aeration is meant to promote gas exchange near the root hairs, which helps the root hairs breathe. Therefore we have always advocated breathable media, and gritty materials are regarded as an excellent choice for aeration. However, if we neglect the water-retention function of the medium while pursuing aeration, then without water as a reacting substance, aeration is futile.

Therefore, we must view the aeration of the medium rationally and not blindly pursue gritty materials. It is not that the more grit, the better. It must be judged according to the environment; overall balance is very important.

1. In environments with strong ventilation and large humidity fluctuations, such as balconies and terraces. It is recommended to reduce the proportion of grit and appropriately add water-retentive media such as vermiculite, and use more fibrous mixed materials, such as fibrous peat and coconut coir, because these small particles are the best attachment for root hairs. Without these things, root hairs are easily dried out, and the plant enters a repeated cycle of rooting and cannot grow well.

2. In humid, stuffy environments, such as greenhouses and indoors. It is recommended to use dust-free gritty media with good aeration and appropriately increase the proportion of grit. This helps drain excess water and allows the root hairs to fully contact gas. Because the environmental humidity is high, there is no need to worry about root hairs drying out, and more attention should be paid to gas flow and exchange.

The process of root care

You cannot expect a small seedling to grow a big radish-like root right away. Do not transplant or trim roots frequently. Try to plant in one step and have one planting last more than 1 year (some mature plants can be repotted once every 2~3 years). Too-frequent transplanting will affect the systematic development of the root system and shorten the lifespan of the roots.

1. The root system is a micro-ecological balanced system. Any plant body is a living entity, and we must believe in the self-balancing effect of life. As long as we do the early work well, prepare the soil well, and improve the environment well, growth is their own business. Growers should not intervene excessively.

Because a micro-ecological environment will gradually form around a root system, the bacterial community around the roots can effectively ensure the development of root hairs and extend the lifespan of the root system. Therefore, do not arbitrarily change the cultivation environment (never change the position every day), do not arbitrarily apply fungicides (unless necessary), and do not arbitrarily apply chemical fertilizers (stunted growth and slow growth are not problems that chemical fertilizers can solve).

2. We often talk about why Japanese and Korean plants have such good roots, such white roots, with no aging phenomenon. The root cause lies in the efficient coordination of their planting environment and soil quality. As long as the roots are kept in a mild micro-ecological environment, with no pathogenic bacteria, no extreme environment, and a stable environment for the stems and leaves, the roots will be healthy and long-lived.

The key to solving this lies in grasping the relationship between the moisture and aeration of the substrate: not too wet and not too dry, a fit between balance and experience. The reference value for us is that we can choose a moderately enclosed environment (closed cultivation, similar to many greenhouses), combining ventilation and moisture retention, not watering too much (not not watering), keeping the temperature from being too high, observing at any time whether disease exists, and not arbitrarily applying chemical fertilizers or unfermented fertilizers.

In a relatively good root-care environment, old roots can even be replaced in place by new roots (new roots grow into the interior of the old roots). This phenomenon is called "nested rooting" and is a sign of successful cultivation.

3. In addition, the response of the part of the plant above the soil surface to the cultivation environment also directly affects the balance of the plant's endogenous hormones, and thereby affects the root system. Leaves are used for photosynthesis, and the stronger the photosynthesis, the higher the cytokinin activity and the more auxin is transported downward, which helps root development. However, strong light does not mean strong photosynthesis, and excessively strong light may even block photosynthesis. Therefore, moderate light is the key to cultivation.

Plants with growth points and leaves can root as long as the environment is suitable and there is enough time, and gradually form a complete root system. For beheaded plants without growth points, it is best to retain leaves; otherwise the root system will gradually shrink. For beheaded plants without growth points and without leaves, after new shoots form, be sure not to cut them off too early. Appropriately retain 1~2 shoots to satisfy the lifespan of the root base, so that more shoots can emerge.

Many friends habitually think that the larger the pot, the better the root system develops. "Armchair theory" is indeed like this. But in our actual cultivation process, this is often not the case. The larger the pot, the easier it is to rot roots. A larger pot means more soil, and more soil means more water retention and more enclosure. So the key lies in the imbalance between water retention and aeration.

At this time, in order to better meet our daily cultivation situation, we should choose a pot that matches the size of the plant. The safest approach is to choose a pot 2~3 cm larger than the plant. For Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia maughanii and the like, a deep pot is a must. If cultivating in a stuffy, hot environment, it is best to use a pot with holes in the wall or choose a pot made of breathable material, such as a terracotta pot.

Caring for roots well is a process, and every process has twists and turns. Throughout the four seasons, plants also go through birth, growth, harvest, and storage, adjusting to the four seasons. Therefore, during the growing season you can see the plant's best state, and the root system is naturally also in its best state. During the dormant period, you often cannot see an ideal state, and the root system is mainly maintained, preventing root rot from excessive moisture and heat.

In fact, there is no fixed method to follow in plant cultivation. You must combine your own environment and your understanding of the plant and adjust at any time. Return to your own cultivation environment, experience the characteristics of the plant, think more and try more, and only then can you grow plants well.

Be attentive, be patient, and be patient again!