What are the key points for raising meat pigeons in winter?
What should be noted when raising meat pigeons in winter?
(Agricultural Wealth Network) What should be noted when raising meat pigeons in winter
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Cold protection and warmth
First, block the cracks and holes in the pigeon house walls to prevent meat pigeons from being attacked by cold wind.
Second, seal the front and rear windows tightly with plastic film. At night, hang burlap curtains outside the windows and windproof curtains on the doors; this can raise the temperature inside the house.
Third, maintain the pigeon house temperature during severe winter. Usually, when the pigeon house temperature is above 5°C, breeding pigeons can lay eggs, incubate, and brood squabs as usual. If the temperature is below 3°C, heating facilities should be added. Generally, heating, carbon fire stoves (with chimneys), hot wall flues, and infrared light bulbs can be used to solve this. In addition, due to the need for warmth in winter, the air inside the pigeon house is generally poor. When the weather is good at noon, open the windows for ventilation to keep the air inside circulating.
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Prevent pigeon eggs and squabs from freezing
Winter weather is cold, and dead embryos in the early incubation stage and poor development of squabs due to chilling are very likely to occur. Therefore, in addition to doing basic warmth preservation work, we need to check the incubation and brooding status of each pair of breeding pigeons every day, and do a good job of checking eggs, candling eggs, and merging eggs and squabs. The specific methods are:
First, after a production pigeon lays the first egg, it generally does not sit on the nest. To prevent the breeding egg from freezing, the egg can be taken back indoors for warmth. After the second egg is laid, put the first egg back; at this time, the parent pigeons will settle down to incubate. If pigeon eggs are exposed outside the feathers, or the parent pigeons frequently leave the nest, promptly place the eggs under the belly or merge them into nests with similar-age eggs for surrogate incubation, so as to avoid freezing and dead embryos;
Second, prevent squabs from falling or crawling out of the nest and freezing to death. Generally, after squabs are 12-13 days old, they are already relatively large, and the parent pigeons can no longer cover two young squabs. To prevent the young squabs from freezing, one can be taken back indoors at night for warmth, while the other is still kept warm by the parent pigeons, and then put back into the nest the next day. In addition, for squabs that are poorly fed by the parent pigeons, besides finding foster pigeons to feed them, 2-3 week old squabs can also be collected for indoor warmth and artificial tube feeding for brooding;
Third, in winter, squabs can "leave the nest" a little later, and the squabs should be placed in a squab basin lined with thick burlap pieces to prevent them from freezing. In addition, pigeon nests should preferably be woven from rice straw to keep the nests warm and clean.
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Supplement lighting in the pigeon house
Winter days are short and light is insufficient, which is unfavorable for the breeding and production of breeding pigeons. Generally, artificial lighting should be added in the pigeon house for 3-4 hours at night. This can effectively increase the egg production rate, fertilization rate, and squab body weight of breeding pigeons. Usually, one 40-60 watt light bulb per 10 sq m of pigeon house is sufficient. The light should be soft, not too strong or too weak, and turned on at fixed times. Generally, 16-17 hours of natural plus artificial lighting per day in the pigeon house can ensure the normal production needs of breeding pigeons.
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Increase feed nutrition
Winter temperatures are low, and the energy contained in feed should be higher than in other seasons. Feed types should be diversified and nutrition should be comprehensive. It must meet both the nutritional needs of breeding pigeons and the nutritional needs of squab growth and development. Generally, energy feed for production pigeons should account for 70%-75% of the feed formula, and beans such as peas should account for 25%-30%. Pigeon farms with conditions can also press some complete pellet feed for coordinated feeding to meet the nutritional needs of pigeons; at the same time, add 3%-5% brown sugar or glucose to the health sand, and frequently give electrolytic multivitamins or cod liver oil in drinking water to improve the disease resistance and cold resistance of breeding pigeons. In addition, winter water is icy cold and should not be given to pigeons directly; it should generally be mixed into warm water for drinking. This is also the key to raising pigeons well in winter. At the same time, leftover water should be poured out at night to prevent freezing and pigeons drinking it, which can cause illness. In addition, pigeons eat more in winter, so the feeding amount should be increased accordingly, with one more feeding at night. Persist in feeding small amounts frequently and adding feed diligently, so they eat their fill without leftovers. This can both stimulate the appetite of caged pigeons and encourage pigeon movement, enhancing their physique.
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Do a good job of cleaning and disease prevention
Persist in cleaning feces and fallen feathers from the pigeon house and pigeon cages. Frequently remove squab droppings from the nest pans to prevent squabs from getting sick due to fecal contamination.
The pigeon house and feeding utensils should be regularly disinfected with 5% Lysol, 3% potassium permanganate, or Baidusha. In winter, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and pigeons are prone to illnesses such as colds, rhinitis, indigestion, and diarrhea. When colds occur, oxytetracycline and paracetamol can be taken, 1/2 tablet and 1/4 tablet each time respectively, halved for squabs, twice a day, for 3-5 consecutive days. To treat mycoplasmosis in meat pigeons, use erythromycin 0.02% and tylosin 0.08% in water for drinking, for 3-5 consecutive days. Sick pigeons found should be isolated and treated promptly.
--------------------------------------
Cold protection and warmth
First, block the cracks and holes in the pigeon house walls to prevent meat pigeons from being attacked by cold wind.
Second, seal the front and rear windows tightly with plastic film. At night, hang burlap curtains outside the windows and windproof curtains on the doors; this can raise the temperature inside the house.
Third, maintain the pigeon house temperature during severe winter. Usually, when the pigeon house temperature is above 5°C, breeding pigeons can lay eggs, incubate, and brood squabs as usual. If the temperature is below 3°C, heating facilities should be added. Generally, heating, carbon fire stoves (with chimneys), hot wall flues, and infrared light bulbs can be used to solve this. In addition, due to the need for warmth in winter, the air inside the pigeon house is generally poor. When the weather is good at noon, open the windows for ventilation to keep the air inside circulating.
--------------------------------------
Prevent pigeon eggs and squabs from freezing
Winter weather is cold, and dead embryos in the early incubation stage and poor development of squabs due to chilling are very likely to occur. Therefore, in addition to doing basic warmth preservation work, we need to check the incubation and brooding status of each pair of breeding pigeons every day, and do a good job of checking eggs, candling eggs, and merging eggs and squabs. The specific methods are:
First, after a production pigeon lays the first egg, it generally does not sit on the nest. To prevent the breeding egg from freezing, the egg can be taken back indoors for warmth. After the second egg is laid, put the first egg back; at this time, the parent pigeons will settle down to incubate. If pigeon eggs are exposed outside the feathers, or the parent pigeons frequently leave the nest, promptly place the eggs under the belly or merge them into nests with similar-age eggs for surrogate incubation, so as to avoid freezing and dead embryos;
Second, prevent squabs from falling or crawling out of the nest and freezing to death. Generally, after squabs are 12-13 days old, they are already relatively large, and the parent pigeons can no longer cover two young squabs. To prevent the young squabs from freezing, one can be taken back indoors at night for warmth, while the other is still kept warm by the parent pigeons, and then put back into the nest the next day. In addition, for squabs that are poorly fed by the parent pigeons, besides finding foster pigeons to feed them, 2-3 week old squabs can also be collected for indoor warmth and artificial tube feeding for brooding;
Third, in winter, squabs can "leave the nest" a little later, and the squabs should be placed in a squab basin lined with thick burlap pieces to prevent them from freezing. In addition, pigeon nests should preferably be woven from rice straw to keep the nests warm and clean.
--------------------------------------
Supplement lighting in the pigeon house
Winter days are short and light is insufficient, which is unfavorable for the breeding and production of breeding pigeons. Generally, artificial lighting should be added in the pigeon house for 3-4 hours at night. This can effectively increase the egg production rate, fertilization rate, and squab body weight of breeding pigeons. Usually, one 40-60 watt light bulb per 10 sq m of pigeon house is sufficient. The light should be soft, not too strong or too weak, and turned on at fixed times. Generally, 16-17 hours of natural plus artificial lighting per day in the pigeon house can ensure the normal production needs of breeding pigeons.
--------------------------------------
Increase feed nutrition
Winter temperatures are low, and the energy contained in feed should be higher than in other seasons. Feed types should be diversified and nutrition should be comprehensive. It must meet both the nutritional needs of breeding pigeons and the nutritional needs of squab growth and development. Generally, energy feed for production pigeons should account for 70%-75% of the feed formula, and beans such as peas should account for 25%-30%. Pigeon farms with conditions can also press some complete pellet feed for coordinated feeding to meet the nutritional needs of pigeons; at the same time, add 3%-5% brown sugar or glucose to the health sand, and frequently give electrolytic multivitamins or cod liver oil in drinking water to improve the disease resistance and cold resistance of breeding pigeons. In addition, winter water is icy cold and should not be given to pigeons directly; it should generally be mixed into warm water for drinking. This is also the key to raising pigeons well in winter. At the same time, leftover water should be poured out at night to prevent freezing and pigeons drinking it, which can cause illness. In addition, pigeons eat more in winter, so the feeding amount should be increased accordingly, with one more feeding at night. Persist in feeding small amounts frequently and adding feed diligently, so they eat their fill without leftovers. This can both stimulate the appetite of caged pigeons and encourage pigeon movement, enhancing their physique.
--------------------------------------
Do a good job of cleaning and disease prevention
Persist in cleaning feces and fallen feathers from the pigeon house and pigeon cages. Frequently remove squab droppings from the nest pans to prevent squabs from getting sick due to fecal contamination.
The pigeon house and feeding utensils should be regularly disinfected with 5% Lysol, 3% potassium permanganate, or Baidusha. In winter, the temperature difference between day and night is large, and pigeons are prone to illnesses such as colds, rhinitis, indigestion, and diarrhea. When colds occur, oxytetracycline and paracetamol can be taken, 1/2 tablet and 1/4 tablet each time respectively, halved for squabs, twice a day, for 3-5 consecutive days. To treat mycoplasmosis in meat pigeons, use erythromycin 0.02% and tylosin 0.08% in water for drinking, for 3-5 consecutive days. Sick pigeons found should be isolated and treated promptly.