How do you grow succulents? Soil mixing is the first essential

From the year 2000, I've been growing cacti, and now I'm into Echeveria, mesembs, Haworthia, and Haworthia cooperi. Whenever I have time, I read up on materials and learn from the soil-mixing and growing experience of the experts. To put it briefly, I'll just talk about my personal soil-mixing method for Haworthia, which actually also suits Haworthia cooperi, because they all have taproots. If I say anything wrong, please don't bash me. In my personal opinion, what I actually want to talk about isn't soil mixing, but the combination of soil mixing and planting. After studying for so many years, I've found that many articles always seem to be missing something, and it's really a matter of detail, that is, the details of how to place the growing medium when planting Haworthia. Exactly how thick to put it, the experts never wrote about. I myself think it's not just a matter of dumping it in with one scoop and then spreading a top dressing and being done. It feels like something is being kept back, whether intentionally or not. Where I'm wrong, don't throw watermelon rinds at me, I just want to take my own thoughts out and share them, and I welcome criticism. (Thanks to 520juzi for the material)

Everyone who grows succulents knows that Haworthia all have very thick taproots. Look carefully, not radish legs, taproots. The taproot has no absorbing function at all; it's a container that stores nutrients and water and is very afraid of being stuffy. It can be summarized as part of the upper plant. If you water thoroughly and it doesn't dry out, then you're stumped, and the fine capillary roots at the ends are the main force of absorption, especially delicate. If there's long-term drought in a granular mix, think about what will happen. I started researching on my own, and made the planting soil layering more specific.

First, the bottom layer, no need to explain, then put fertilizer on top of the bottom-layer stones, give it a shake and mix it in, that's fine. Exactly how thick, just enough to cover the bottom. Then for the capillary roots, use a finer growing medium, including peat, granules, rice-husk charcoal, shell powder, and the like. The reason is to better care for the capillary roots. About one quarter of the pot height is enough, just don't bury the taproot, and this forms a very thin sandwich cookie. Exactly how thin, judge for yourself. Don't bash me as a cookie seller, I don't sell food.

For the remaining taproot, use granular growing medium that doesn't easily break down. Exactly what, I won't say, everyone has their own ideas; anyway, as long as it doesn't easily break down, that's fine. This way you have a very thick top-dressing stone layer, which in plain terms is elevating the taproot. Big or small doesn't matter, no nutrients doesn't matter. As long as it's breathable, breathable, breathable, breathable and comfortable like a seven-degree space, haha, I'm going off topic. The main point of doing this is to speed up drying, so the taproot can breathe more comfortably.

The specific operation is to hold the Haworthia, measure the planting height, lay the bottom, pour the fine growing medium into the pot, let the root tips just touch it, then boldly pour in the large-granule growing medium. It's recommended to bury the plant a bit deeper, leaving only the window surface exposed. Most people won't be told this. Why? If you want to know why, buy a plane ticket and go see for yourself in South Africa. It's said that locally you can trade a Nokia for succulents, and the locals will be happy.

Next comes the matter of care. Getting Haworthia to grow taproots is very simple, just drought it. Haworthia grows very slowly, and rooting is also very difficult. For newly planted Haworthia, don't water heavily in the short term, and don't expect the newly planted Haworthia to do this or that. Its water requirement is far less than that of green plants and Echeveria. One ladle of water can last it a long time. Properly controlling the growth rate of Haworthia can make it grow very sturdy.

I'm a balcony grower, and I basically water once a month. This refers to mature plants and sub-mature plants; for seedlings you still need to feel out the watering yourself. My water is the water changed out from keeping fish, fish poop is very fertile. With my arrangement of growing medium, the roots can basically grow out from under the pot in just over a month. Don't be afraid of the ones that grow out; this shows you've succeeded.

For normal watering, I only soak the pot. Soak until the water level reaches the fine growing medium, stop for three seconds, and that's fine. As the saying goes, three seconds is a real man. Remember, Haworthia isn't that delicate, its vitality is completely beyond imagination. Water less, control your hands. Observing the condition is what matters most. Varieties and plant sizes differ, so watering differs. Anyway, fast-growing varieties need slightly more water, slow-growing ones need less. Seedlings drink more than mature plants. Exactly how much still depends on your own observation. Watering takes ten years of skill, and mainly relies on accumulation.