Why do succulents always end up dying on you? It must be that you failed to read their distress signals

In the process of growing succulents, we often receive all kinds of "distress" signals from our fleshy plants. If we do not notice them in time, or notice them but pay no attention, we may live to regret it later...

So which distress signals from succulents should we pay attention to?

Many succulent growers may notice their plant leaning to one side during the growing process. Some people think the plant is simply too large and pay no attention, but this is actually the plant sending you a "distress" signal! We should help it.

Symptom 1. The succulent leans noticeably toward the light

Almost all plants have the habit of turning toward the sun and seeking light. This is especially pronounced in most cactus and succulent plants, which like warmth, dryness and plenty of sunlight. When a plant receives light from a single direction for a long time, this state appears.

If your succulent does this, it is actually reminding you that it is time to turn the pot around. Yes! A 180-degree rotation, to change the uneven light exposure of the plant.

By turning it, the plant will slowly straighten up. However, to prevent it from leaning again, you should turn the pot around again after a period of time. This is especially important for indoor growing.

Symptom 2. After the succulent grows up, it looks "top-heavy"

As the plant gradually grows, some grow tall and large, and slowly lean to one side, looking "top-heavy" as if it has lost its center of gravity. When the supporting effect of the soil weakens or the soil around the roots loosens, the plant will lean to one side.

If your succulent does this, it is actually reminding you: buddy, please check whether the soil has loosened. If so, please help straighten it.

First, after straightening the plant, set up a support beside it; or firm down the loose soil and then place a pebble of a certain weight on top to stabilize it.

Second, if possible, take the opportunity to repot it, fill in fresh soil, correct the plant's lean, and at the same time check whether there is a problem with the roots.

Symptom 3. The succulent is not large, and you often change its direction, yet it still leans

If your plant is not very large and you often turn it to face the sun, yet your succulent still leans, then the problem may be with the roots.

Root rot, being hollowed out by borers, rot at the lower part of the stem and so on can all cause sudden leaning. This seems to be a "distress" signal sent to the grower.

If we ignore it and overlook the message the plant is sending, by the time it actually topples it is already too late, and no remedy will save it. Therefore, when we find a plant leaning, we must become alert.

In particular, we should first consider and promptly check whether there is a problem with the roots or the lower part of the stem, so as to take timely measures: in mild cases, change the environment and improve light and ventilation; for partially rotted plants, remove the rotten part, disinfect, dry and replant; in severe cases, we can only take cuttings from the upper stems and leaves, or take offsets for cuttings or grafting.

In the process of growing succulents, we also often find various problems with the leaves.

Symptom 4. A perfectly good succulent suddenly drops all its leaves, leaving only a bare stalk

There are many reasons for succulent leaf drop, generally these few situations. You can check them yourself according to your care routine:

① Overwatering.New growers cannot control their hands, and keep watering whenever the plant looks a bit dry. The result is too much moisture, causing the leaves to fall off at a touch.

In this case, be careful with watering. Generally, water only when the soil is fully dry, and water thoroughly; just do not let water accumulate in the pot.

② Caused by black rot.Leaves falling off at a touch is very often a sign of succulent black rot.

At this point, remove and throw away the black-rotted leaves, then check whether the stem and roots have turned black. If discovered too late, black rot really is beyond saving.

If discovered in time, use a sterilized knife to cut away the black-rotted parts, cutting as cleanly as possible, then let the wound dry in a shaded, ventilated place before repotting.

In addition, black rot is somewhat contagious. If one succulent is found to have black rot, the other succulents should be isolated as well. Black rot generally occurs in summer, so pay more attention to ventilation in daily care.

③ Lack of light.Sometimes a succulent lacking light for a long time will also cause the leaves to fall off at a touch.

The best solution in this case is to give it more sun in daily care, but in summer be careful not to let it get sunburned. The vast majority of succulents need shading.

④ Caused by root rot.Leaves falling off at a touch can sometimes be due to a problem with the succulent's root system.

At this point, pull the succulent out and check whether the roots have a problem. If they do, use a sterilized knife to cut off the rotten roots, then apply a little carbendazim powder to the wound, let the wound dry, and repot.

⑤ Caused by soil and pot that do not breathe.Sometimes if the soil and pot used for the succulent do not breathe, this can also cause leaf drop. In this case, just change the soil and pot in time.

⑥ Normal metabolism.This situation is fairly easy to judge: mostly only the bottom leaves drop, and the leaves are wrinkled and not easy to knock off.

Symptom 5. Leaf color turns abnormally transparent and leaves fall off easily

The shape of the succulent leaf does not change, with no curled edges, wilting, deformation, or patches of yellow and green. It still looks plump, even plumper than normal leaves, but the color turns abnormally transparent, the leaves fall off easily, and later they become soft and black.

This is leaf waterlogging. The waterlogged part of the leaf is not fixed; sometimes the lower part becomes waterlogged, sometimes half of it does. And generally when a leaf becomes waterlogged, the stem may also become slightly waterlogged and transparent.

If only one or two leaves are waterlogged, you can first move the succulent to a shaded, ventilated place to observe. If the waterlogging does not spread, there is no need to do anything; wait for the succulent to absorb the waterlogged leaves itself.

If it spreads, or if a large area is already waterlogged when discovered, promptly use a clean, sterile knife to cut away all the waterlogged parts, apply carbendazim to the cuts, and place in a ventilated place to dry. In daily care, control watering, supplement light, and increase ventilation.

Symptom 6. Small white insects appear on the leaves

These are mealybugs. When mealybugs are found on a few leaves, you can remove them by hand with tweezers, a toothpick or a wet brush, or pull out the whole plant and rinse it several times with water. You can also wipe the affected plant repeatedly with 75% alcohol, or spray or apply systemic pesticide. After treatment, remember to change the soil, or scald the soil several times with boiling water.

Symptom 7. Small black spots appear on the leaves

This is anthracnose, which usually occurs where planting is too dense, ventilation is poor, or at injured wounds. The main affected part is the stem. Water-soaked light brown small spots appear on the stem nodes or near the edges, later expanding into round to oval or semicircular to irregular brown spots.

In the early stage of the disease, brown sunken spots appear. In severe cases, the center of the lesion becomes necrotic. It is difficult to cure. When buying, check whether the plant has this disease and avoid buying it. When the disease occurs, be sure to cut off and burn the diseased parts, then use specialized chemicals such as carbendazim-thiram.

Symptom 8. Rust-colored spots like rust appear on the leaves

This is because of rust disease, mainly caused by improper cultivation management, such as soil that is too poor and lacking nutrients, or long-term poor ventilation in the pot, water poured directly on the top of the plant, and unsuitable environmental factors triggering rust fungus infection.

This disease occurs on the plant surface. In the early stage, small swollen spots appear on the stem surface, with a yellow or reddish-brown center, then slowly expand outward. In severe cases, the spots sink to form cankers, the tissue turns black, and the plant may even die.

Besides paying attention to management, increase ventilation and avoid pouring water on the top of the plant. You can use 12.5% diniconazole wettable powder at 2000-3000 times dilution, or amobam at 1500-2000 times dilution, spraying once a week.

Symptom 9. White cottony, thread-like symptoms appear on the succulent's roots

These are root mealybugs. When the plant is dormant, the potting soil is dry. At this time root mealybugs reproduce strongly and will crawl out from the bottom of the pot to invade other pots. In severe cases, the soil near the roots turns white and water cannot penetrate. This pest mostly parasitizes the plant roots. Its body is about a few millimeters long, covered with white powder, and the parasitized area forms a lump.

Mix Huahuashen with water and pour it into the growing medium, or use "Guoguang Jiebizhi". Of the two, Huahuashen is less harmful and has a preventive effect. If the plant is already infested, take it out, wash it clean, cut away the parts infested by root pests, and repot in fresh soil.

You can also use diazinon, which can remove most pests. It can only be used occasionally on non-edible plants; it must not be used on plants grown for food. Be sure to read the instructions and dilution ratio carefully.

Symptom 10. The succulent grows thinner and thinner

There are also many reasons why a succulent grows thinner and thinner (Source: Zhihu, Author: outsider)

① Poor roots.Failure to recover after root establishment, or roots dying off, is the most common reason for growing thinner and thinner.

Solution: trim the roots, change the soil, and let it re-root. Pay attention to the rooting medium (it should be loose, moisture-retentive and fine; recommended: peat + vermiculite + perlite). Before the roots recover, avoid harsh sun exposure. During root recovery, the best watering method is the soak method.

② Soil compaction.This hinders root growth and the reach of water. Solution: change the soil.

③ Pests.There are many types of pests, and some live in the soil and are hard to find, such as fungus gnat larvae. It is best to pull out the plant roots to check. Solution: spray pesticide, change the soil.

④ Disease.This is generally a fungal infection, which then develops into waterlogging and black rot. Solution: for mild cases, spray pesticide and remove the diseased tissue; for severe cases, behead. (Note isolation; it is highly contagious. If too severe, it is recommended to discard it directly.)

Go and check quickly whether your succulent is sending you a "distress" signal~