Key Points of General Beekeeping Management Techniques

General feeding and management mainly includes: site selection, arrangement of bee colonies, inspection of bee colonies, merging of bee colonies, introduction of queen bees, methods of migratory beekeeping, feeding of bee colonies, handling of robbing bees and absconding bees, natural swarming and its control, and searching for and capturing wild bees.
I. Selection of Beekeeping Site
The environmental conditions of the apiary are closely related to the success or failure of beekeeping and the yield of bee products. Through careful investigation, a site with abundant nectar sources and a suitable environment should be selected for establishing an apiary. Within a 2.5 km radius around the apiary, there must be at least one or two major nectar source plants with large areas throughout the year, and also a variety of auxiliary nectar and pollen source plants with staggered flowering periods. Relying on auxiliary nectar source plants can cultivate and strengthen bee colonies, build combs, or produce royal jelly; utilizing major nectar sources with high nectar flow can produce large amounts of honey. The apiary site should face away from the wind and toward the sun, with high and dry terrain, no water accumulation, and a suitable microclimate. The microclimate around the apiary directly affects the flight of bees, their departure and return times, and the nectar secretion of plants. It is best to have a courtyard wall or dense forest on the northwest side. In mountainous areas, a south-facing slope at the foot or midway up the mountain should be chosen, with a windbreak behind and open terrain in front with plenty of sunlight, and sparse small trees in the middle of the site. Such a location can prevent cold wind attacks in winter and spring, provide shade from small trees in summer to avoid direct sun exposure, and is an ideal place for establishing an apiary. High and cold mountain tops, canyons where strong air currents frequently occur, and swampy wastelands prone to water accumulation are not suitable for establishing apiaries. There should be a clean water source near the apiary; a small stream with year-round flowing water is even more ideal, providing water for bees. The front of the apiary should not be close to reservoirs, lakes, or large rivers, to prevent bees from being blown into the water by strong winds, and to prevent queen bees from drowning during mating flights. Some factories discharge toxic wastewater; apiaries should not be set up near sources of wastewater. The apiary environment should be quiet, without disturbance from livestock or vibration. Apiaries should not be established near factories, railways, pastures, or places that may be affected by mountain floods or landslides. Placing bees near pesticide factories or pesticide warehouses can easily cause bee poisoning and is not suitable for establishing an apiary. Placing bees near sugar factories or candied fruit factories not only affects factory operations but also causes bee casualties and losses. It is advisable to place no more than 50 colonies in one apiary, and there should be at least 2 km between apiaries to ensure sufficient nectar sources for the colonies and reduce the spread of bee diseases. Pay attention to checking whether there are insect or animal predators nearby so that protective measures can be taken. For permanent apiaries, the requirements are relatively strict, so careful investigation is needed. Place the colonies at the pre-selected site for trial keeping for 2-3 years, and after confirming that conditions are met, proceed with basic construction.
　　
II. Arrangement of Bee Colonies
For a newly established beekeeping site, first clear weeds, level the ground, clean up, and then arrange the bee colonies. The basic requirements for colony arrangement are: convenient for colony management operations and convenient for bees to identify the location of their own hive. When the number of colonies is small, single-row single-hive or double-hive side-by-side arrangements can be used; for apiaries with a larger number of colonies, row arrangements are used, with hives in each row staggered, colony spacing of 1 m, row spacing of 2-3 m; wider spacing is better. Chinese bee colonies should be kept scattered, or 2-3 colonies can be placed as 1 group, with groups placed separately, and the distance between colonies or groups should be larger. Mating colonies or newly split colonies should be scattered at the edge of the apiary, with entrances facing different directions, and making appropriate use of terrain and landmarks so that bees can identify the location of their own hive.
If during migratory beekeeping, colonies are temporarily placed at stations or docks, they can be arranged in a circle or stacked formation with hives close together. Hive entrances facing south, or southeast or southwest, can enable bees to start work earlier and help with hive insulation in low-temperature seasons. Hives should be raised 20-30 cm with bricks, stones, or wooden stands to prevent ground moisture from entering the hive, which could cause the bottom board to rot, and to prevent predators from entering the hive to harm the colony. Hives should be level from left to right, with the back raised 2-3 cm to prevent rainwater from flowing into the hive and to facilitate bees cleaning the bottom board. For colony arrangement, thorough consideration should be given in advance, because once bees have learned the location of their hive, changing its position becomes quite troublesome.
　　
III. Inspection of Bee Colonies
Inspection of bee colonies mainly includes: external observation and comprehensive internal inspection.
1. External Observation
Frequently patrol the apiary, observe bee activities and various signs from outside the hive, infer the general condition of the colonies, and when necessary, conduct focused inspections of individual colonies.
(1) Presence of mouse damage: During the overwintering period, if there are broken bee corpses in front of the hive, it indicates mouse damage has occurred; if broken bee corpses and wax debris are pulled out from the entrance, it means mice have entered the hive and the hive needs to be opened for treatment.
(2) Lack of feed: In the late overwintering period, if individual colonies keep flying out regardless of weather conditions, or crawl in and out at the entrance, and the hive feels very light when lifted, it indicates a lack of feed. If dead bees pile up at the bottom board, with shrunken abdomens and protruding proboscises, it indicates the bees starved to death.
(3) Death from poisoning: If there are large numbers of dead bees at the apiary, with wings spread, proboscises extended, and abdomens curved, mostly foragers, these are symptoms of poisoning.
(4) Symptoms of dysentery: In early spring, when bees fly out for defecation, if there are brown-black fecal stains near the entrance, in front of the hive, or on the walls, it indicates that the overwintering feed was too thin, contained honeydew, or that the colony is infected with nosema disease.
(5) Hornet attacks: In summer and autumn, if there are dead bees with missing heads or broken legs at the site, it indicates hornets have attacked the bees.
(6) Mite damage: If bees with weak bodies and incomplete wings are continuously found crawling out of the hive, they may be suffering from mite damage.
(7) Queen condition: On clear and warm days with nectar and pollen sources, if bees enter and exit frequently and returning bees carry pollen loads on their hind legs, it indicates the queen is alive and well. If individual colonies have very few bees leaving the hive to collect pollen, and some bees vibrate their wings at the entrance or crawl back and forth, the queen may have been lost.
(8) Signs of swarming: During swarming season, if individual colonies have few bees going out to forage, many bees form a "bee beard" at the entrance, and some bees bite the entrance, it indicates the colony is preparing for natural swarming.
(9) Robbing occurs: When nectar sources are scarce, if bees are seen fighting in clusters at the entrance, with robbing bees entering the hive having small abdomens and those leaving having large abdomens, these are signs of robbing.
(10) Poor ventilation: In summer, if many bees fan their wings at the entrance, and some bees cluster in piles in front of the hive at night, it indicates poor ventilation in the hive.
(11) Entering the honey flow period: If all colonies in the apiary are busy foraging, and the sound of bees fanning and ripening honey continues throughout the night, it indicates that the major nectar source plants have entered the main honey flow period. (12) Young bee orientation flights
On clear and warm days, if dozens of bees hover and fly in front of the hive at noon, this is the group flight of young bees orienting to their hive, also called orientation flight.
　　
2. Comprehensive Internal Inspection
Comprehensive inspection means carefully observing the colony frame by frame to grasp the overall condition of the colony. This includes the queen, bee population, honey and pollen stores, brood combs (eggs, larvae, pupae), and diseases and pests. This type of inspection should not be done too often; it is generally conducted in spring after colonies are arranged, before colonies develop swarming fever, at the beginning and end of the main honey collection period, before and after migration, and when preparing for overwintering. During the honey collection period, colony inspection can also be combined with honey harvesting.
Bee larvae are suitable for growth and development at 34-35°C, so comprehensive internal inspection should be conducted at suitable temperatures, preferably above 20°C. At 8-14°C or when only some worker bees are active outside the hive, only quick inspections should be made. During the honey collection period, comprehensive inspection should avoid the peak foraging hours.
During comprehensive internal inspection, beekeepers should preferably wear light-colored clothing, put on a veil, fasten cuffs and trouser legs with elastic bands, and bring a smoker, bee brush, hive tool, uncapping knife, and other equipment. The inspector should stand at the side of the hive with their back to the sunlight. Operations should be careful and movements should be light and quick. If the colony is relatively calm and does not need smoking, the outer cover can be gently removed and placed upside down on the ground behind the hive, then the inner cover removed and placed in front of the entrance, the partition board on one side pushed outward or removed, and then the curved blade of the hive tool inserted sequentially under the frame lugs of each comb, slightly pried, and then each frame can be inspected one by one. If the bees are aggressive, after lifting one side of the inner cover, smoke can be directed at the bee space a few times. If occasionally stung, remain calm and move away to deal with it; never drop or throw combs, swat or run, otherwise the colony will become enraged and chase to sting, resulting in more severe stinging. The sting can be scraped out in reverse with a fingernail. Experienced beekeepers have developed resistance to bee venom and show little reaction; beginners can apply a little ammonia water to the sting site to reduce the reaction.
To lift a frame, use both thumbs, index fingers, and middle fingers to grip the frame lugs on both sides of the comb, lift vertically, with one side of the comb facing your line of sight, keeping a parallel distance of about 30 cm from your eyes. When you need to see the other side after viewing one side, first turn the top bar vertically upright, and using the top bar as an axis, rotate the comb half a turn outward, then level both hands and inspect the other side. This method prevents honey and pollen from falling out of the comb. If the hive is full of combs, the second comb from the edge can be temporarily removed and placed in a carrying box (generally an empty hive body can be used) or beside the hive. When lifting frames for inspection, focus on whether the queen is present, egg-laying, and brood development. The queen usually lays eggs on brood combs and is easy to find on egg combs. If the queen is not seen after checking one by one, search through a second time in order; if still not found, note it down and look again later. If you are anxious to search again, be sure to wait at least half an hour until the bees have settled before opening the hive. When the queen has stopped laying or is laying few eggs and her abdomen has shrunk, inspect her. If the queen takes flight, do not panic; she will certainly circle around nearby. At this time, lift one frame of bees and shake them off at the entrance, then replace the hive cover. The shaken bees will fly up and enter the hive one after another, emitting sound and bee scent, which will attract the queen to return to the hive with the group. During swarming season, also check for natural queen cells. Inspected combs should be promptly returned to the hive, and the bee space between combs restored in order, generally restoring to the original arrangement, or with egg and larva combs in the center, followed by sealed brood combs, then pollen and honey combs. After inspection, insert the partition board, replace the inner cover and outer cover, make records, and inspect other colonies in sequence.
When outside temperatures are low, nectar sources are lacking, or when only certain conditions of the colony need to be known, a few combs can be removed for partial inspection. If new eggs are found in the removed comb, it indicates the queen is present. If only larvae and sealed brood are on the central combs with no eggs, it indicates the queen has been lost. If there are several scattered eggs in one cell, it proves the queen has been lost for a long time and worker bees are laying eggs. If an edge comb is removed and it is empty, the colony is in a declining phase and the comb should be removed and stored. If the edge comb has more pollen and honey stores and the bee population is sufficient, empty combs should be added. If the brood chamber is full with 8-9 frames of bees and burr combs or new wax appear between combs and on the top bars, a super should be added and foundation added to build new combs. If there is no honey at the comb corners and edges, sugar syrup should be fed. If there are sealed honey cells at the comb corners, it proves honey storage is sufficient. If there are large areas of stored honey at the comb edges, honey should be extracted. If sealed queen cells are found on the comb, it indicates the swarming period is approaching and measures should be taken immediately.
　　
IV. Merging of Bee Colonies
Merging bee colonies means combining two or more colonies into one colony. Strong colonies are the foundation for obtaining high yields of bee products and are convenient to manage. Weak colonies not only have no production capacity but are also prone to robbing or infection by diseases and pests. Therefore, colonies that are too weak to survive on their own need to be merged promptly.
Each bee colony has its own distinctive odor, called colony odor. Colony odor is formed by the mixture of pheromones from each member of the colony (queen, worker bees, drones) and the odors of various components (combs, honey, pollen). Bees rely on their sensitive sense of smell to distinguish members of their own colony from those of other colonies. If bees from different colonies are merged arbitrarily, it will cause mutual fighting and killing.
1. Precautions for Merging Bee Colonies
In principle, weak colonies should be merged into strong colonies, and queenless colonies should be merged into queenright colonies. If two queenright colonies are to be merged, remove 1 inferior queen the day before. If the colony to be merged is relatively strong, it can be divided into 2-3 portions and merged into other colonies separately. To reduce the number of bees from the merged colony returning to the original hive site, it is best to merge it with an adjacent colony. Before merging, carefully inspect the queenless colony to be merged to ensure there is no queen and no queen cells. Merging should be done in the evening, when most bees have returned to the hive and there is no robbing disturbance, making it easier to operate. To ensure the safety of the queen, a queen cage (safety introduction cage) or queen cage can be used to confine the queen, temporarily protecting her within the colony, and releasing her after successful merging. For colonies that have lost their queen for too long, with many old bees and few brood combs, supplement with 1-2 frames of unsealed brood before merging, or divide them among several colonies for merging.
2. Methods of Merging Bee Colonies
There are two methods: direct merging and indirect merging.
(1) Direct merging
This method is suitable during the main nectar flow period (major honey flow). At this time, all colonies are foraging on the same nectar source, and the strong honey scent makes the colony odors basically the same; also, with abundant nectar sources, bees relax their vigilance and are easy to merge. In early spring, colonies just moved out of the overwintering room are also easy to merge.
Adjust the combs with bees from the queenright colony to one side of the hive, and place the combs with bees from the colony to be merged on the other side, with a gap of one frame between the two groups of combs, or insert a partition board in between. When merging, smoke can be directed into the hive, or a little white liquor sprayed, to confuse the two colony odors. Honey water can also be sprayed on both colonies, and adding a little essence makes it even better. The next day, move the combs of the two colonies together, shake the bees off the surplus combs and remove them, and replace the hive cover.
(2) Indirect merging
This allows the two colonies to gradually come into contact, or to come together after their colony odors have mixed. Indirect merging is safe and reliable. The procedure: In the evening, remove the outer cover, inner cover, and cloth of the colony to be merged, lay a sheet of paper with many small holes punched in it, place an empty super on top, put the combs with bees from the colony to be merged into the super, and replace the cover. The bees will chew through the paper, and the two colonies will naturally merge, then reorganize the hive. Alternatively, place a wire screen board between the brood chamber and the super; after 2-3 days, once the two colony odors have mixed, remove the wire screen board and merge the colonies. In hot weather, the merged colony in the super needs ventilation.
　　
V. Introduction of Queen Bees
When a colony suddenly loses its queen, or when the queen is aging, injured, or declining in egg-laying capacity and needs to be replaced, when organizing new colonies through artificial swarming, and when introducing superior breeding queens, a queen needs to be introduced. The pheromones secreted by the queen enable bees to recognize their own queen and unfamiliar queens. Bees will attack unfamiliar queens, so the safety of the queen must be ensured during introduction. When replacing a queen, first remove the queen to be culled; if replacing the queen of a strong colony, after culling its queen, the colony can be divided into two parts, first introducing a queen to one part, and after successful introduction and release of the queen, merging the other part. When introducing a queen to a queenless colony, all queen cells in the hive must be destroyed completely. Two days before introducing the queen, provide reward feeding to the colony to be introduced, making it easier for the colony to accept the new queen. After introducing the queen, do not rush to open the hive for inspection. Observe bee activity outside the hive daily; if there are no bees crawling chaotically in front of the entrance, no queen corpse found on the ground near the entrance, and bees are foraging for nectar and pollen normally, it indicates successful introduction. Queen introduction also has two methods: indirect introduction and direct introduction.
1. Indirect Introduction
Indirect queen introduction uses a device for introduction; the queen is safe and bees easily accept her. It is especially safe and reliable for introducing breeding queens and introducing new queens to colonies that have been queenless for a long time. Using a full-frame introduction cage to introduce a queen is both safe and does not affect the introduced queen's egg-laying. Place the comb with the queen and bees into the full-frame introduction cage, with some honey stored on the comb, close the top cover plate, put it into the queenless colony, and after 3-4 days, remove the full-frame introduction cage. Since the queen has lived in the colony for some time and is laying eggs normally, she is easily accepted by the colony. Usually a safety introduction cage is used. Place the queen into the cage, select 1 brood comb with many young bees and a small amount of honey, pull out the bottom board of the safety introduction cage, and press it onto a spot with several young bees and some honey cells. After one or two days, if some bees are gathered outside the wire screen, or even some bees are biting the wire screen, it indicates the bees have not accepted her, and the queen needs to be confined for several more days. If there are no bees surrounding the outside of the wire screen and bees are feeding the queen, the queen can be released. Using a large frame cage made of coarse wire screen, 15 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 1.5 cm high, to introduce a laying queen does not affect the queen's egg-laying and works very well. A small paper tube rolled from thin paper can also be used as an introduction device. Place the queen into the paper tube, seal both ends, coat the outside of the paper tube with a little honey, and hang it between two combs of the queenless colony.
2. Direct Introduction
This is placing the queen directly into the colony. It is usually used during the major honey flow period or for immediate queen replacement, mainly based on personal experience, with various methods. In the evening, spray a little honey water on the queen, place her at the entrance of the queenless colony or on the top bar of a comb, and let her crawl into the hive. Alternatively, take 2 frames of bees from the queenless colony and shake them in front of the entrance, place the queen among the bees, and let the queen and bees crawl into the hive together. When replacing a queen, remove the comb with the queen to be culled, take the queen away, and immediately place the replacement queen on that comb and put it into the colony. Liquor, honey water, or smoke can also be sprayed into the colony to be introduced. Another method is to prepare a new hive, remove each comb from the colony to be introduced one by one, remove the queen, destroy all queen cells, then place the combs with bees into the new hive and set it beside the original location. Leave the outer edge comb and several empty combs in the original hive to accommodate returning bees. This separates the flying bees from the colony, leaving only young bees in the hive, and then the queen can be directly introduced. After successful introduction, merge with the bees in the original hive.
3. Rescue of Balling Queens
Directly introduced queens, indirectly introduced queens after release, or when robbing occurs, or when a new queen mistakenly enters another hive upon returning from mating, may all be surrounded and killed by bees. From external observation, if bee order is chaotic, immediately open the hive for inspection. If a bee ball is seen on a comb or at the bottom board, the queen is being balled. Place the bee ball into water to force the bees to disperse, then take out the queen for examination. If the queen is not injured, use a safety introduction cage to confine her on a comb for re-introduction; otherwise, cull the queen, correct the problems in the colony, and reintroduce a queen.
4. Handling of Queen Absconding
When directly or indirectly introducing and releasing a queen, sometimes the queen flies away. If the hive cover is open at the time, keep it as it is, and the queen will soon fly back. If the cover is closed, changing the original appearance, the queen may mistakenly enter another colony and be killed when she flies back.
　　
VI. Methods of Migratory Beekeeping
The comprehensive economic benefit of beekeeping is the ultimate manifestation of the economic effect of beekeeping production activities. Comparing comprehensive economic benefit results from five aspects - net income per colony, material costs and production costs per 100 yuan of output value, net output value per laborer, and net value per beekeeping workday - is the most comprehensive, objective, and best way to explain the different economic effects obtained by different feeding methods.
Currently, there are three methods of migratory beekeeping: long-distance migration, short-distance migration, and stationary beekeeping. Stationary beekeeping means colonies are basically kept at a fixed apiary, but sometimes colonies are also moved to nearby places with nectar and pollen sources for honey collection or colony reproduction. Long-distance migration involves crossing provincial borders and transporting colonies over long distances to major nectar source plant areas thousands of kilometers away for beekeeping production. Short-distance migration is, on the basis of stationary beekeeping, short-distance migratory beekeeping within tens or hundreds of kilometers of the apiary to make full use of resources.
Implementing planned and purposeful migratory beekeeping allows colonies to continuously harvest multiple major nectar sources within one year, increasing bee product output and colony reproduction, and is an effective measure to overcome natural disasters. However, expenses are high and risks are also great. Long-distance migratory beekeeping requires rich experience and organized implementation. Large-scale migratory beekeeping not only requires large transportation costs but also relatively higher labor costs, naturally resulting in higher costs.
Stationary beekeeping has high yields because it is relatively easy to maintain strong colonies year-round, especially in places with abundant pollen; the advantage of high royal jelly production with year-round strong colonies is even more obvious. At the same time, stationary beekeeping saves a large amount of transportation costs and requires less labor, but cannot fully utilize nectar source resources. Short-distance migratory beekeeping can fully utilize nectar and pollen sources without the high costs of long-distance migratory beekeeping, so the net output value per laborer is higher, and the costs of products such as honey, royal jelly, beeswax, and propolis are all lower. Moreover, apiaries operating at a loss are fewest with short-distance migratory beekeeping, most with stationary beekeeping, and intermediate with long-distance migratory beekeeping. Through comparison of output, output value, production costs, and economic benefits, under the current situation where beekeeping faces many unfavorable factors, in order to make more profit from beekeeping production, adopting stationary beekeeping combined with short-distance migration is more appropriate, as it is conducive to developing the production potential of colonies, carrying out multi-variety production, and carries relatively lower risks. In areas with multiple continuous major nectar sources, stationary beekeeping can also be used, engaging in other agricultural and sideline production in spare time while keeping bees. Management measures for migratory beekeeping are:
1. Securing Sites
After on-site investigation of a location, having learned the types, areas, flowering times, and climate conditions of the major nectar source plants there, as well as the history of bee migrations to that location and honey yields, secure the site for placing bee colonies in advance.
2. Adjusting Bee Colonies
Before migration, appropriately adjust colony strength, rearrange the hive, and secure combs so that the hive allows good air circulation, ensuring safety during transport.
(1) Adjusting colony strength: Strong colonies with many bees and many brood combs are most likely to be suffocated during transport due to poor air circulation. Before migration, adjust excess bees and brood combs from strong colonies to weaker colonies, keeping super colonies at 12-15 frames of bees and 6-8 brood combs. Place 7-9 combs in the brood chamber and 5-7 combs in the super, with each comb about 70-80% covered with bees. About one week before migration, take sealed brood combs with or without bees from strong colonies to supplement weak colonies. Just before departure, when bees are flying in large numbers, the position of a strong colony can be swapped with a weak colony, letting the flying bees of the strong colony enter the weak colony. Alternatively, in the evening, swap the wire screen inner cover with the bees gathered on it between the strong and weak colonies. For flat-box colonies with 7-10 frames of bees, an empty comb super can be temporarily added.
(2) Adjusting honey combs: Before migration, keep honey combs according to colony strength. For super colonies, select and keep 2 sealed honey combs; for flat-box colonies, select and keep 1 sealed honey comb, placed on the outer side inside the brood chamber. At the same time, remove new combs that have not been used for brood rearing, especially new honey combs and unsealed whole-frame honey combs, to prevent new combs from breaking and collapsing. Also adjust pollen combs; double-queen colonies often lack pollen, so pollen combs can be added.
(3) Adding water combs: During transport in midsummer, more water is consumed. Before packing, give each colony one comb filled with clean water, placed on the outer side of the combs in the super.
(4) Arrangement of combs: The arrangement of various combs should benefit colony life and ventilation, providing considerable space in both the brood chamber and super for bee air circulation. When spring temperatures are low and colony strength is not strong, major adjustments to the hive need not be made, and brood combs remain in the center. In hot seasons with strong colonies, place brood combs and empty combs separately in the upper and lower boxes, leaving space on one side, both sides, or in the center.
3. Packing Bee Colonies
The main purpose is to secure combs so they do not shift, and to connect the brood chamber and super. It is best to use comb fasteners to secure the combs. Wooden strips (frame spacers) 40 mm long, 15 mm wide, and 12-15 mm thick can also be wedged between combs. Add partition boards on the outer sides and secure with iron nails. There are various methods for connecting the brood chamber and super. Using bamboo strips to connect saves money but damages the hive body. The method: nail 4 bamboo strips, 200 mm long and 20-25 mm wide, onto the front and back walls of the hive in a splayed shape. Using an external packing device or strapping machine with plastic straps to connect the brood chamber, super, and cover together is more convenient. If the brood chamber and super do not have screen windows, a wire screen inner cover must be used to ensure ventilation. Nail the wire screen inner cover onto the super. Open the ventilation window on the cover. It is best to bind the hive with hemp rope for easy handling. In the evening, when most bees have entered the hive, spray smoke or water to drive bees into the hive, then close the entrance. It is best to use a wire screen entrance.
4. Loading and Transporting Bee Colonies
Vehicles and boats that have transported pesticides or toxic chemicals must not be used to transport bee colonies. Transporting colonies by truck on highways or by boat on rivers at night is relatively safe. For short distances, rubber-wheeled handcarts can be used. Hive entrances should face backward, with combs parallel to the vehicle. Beekeepers must accompany the bees during transport to handle special situations promptly. When colonies arrive at the destination, promptly move them to the site, spread them out, spray some water at the entrances, then open the entrances. Inspect the colonies the next day and reorganize the hives.
　　
VII. Feeding of Bee Colonies
Honey and pollen are the natural feed of bees. To maintain life and rear 150,000-200,000 bee offspring, one colony needs to consume 15-20 kg of pollen and 80-150 kg of honey per year (including 25-50 kg of overwintering feed). Bees can collect and store this feed, and still have a surplus. People need to feed bees to accelerate colony development, rapidly reproduce colonies, produce more royal jelly, and supplement colony feed in poor harvest years.
1. Feeding Honey or Sugar
Feeding honey or sugar to bee colonies can be divided into 2 types: supplementary feeding and reward feeding.
(1) Supplementary feeding
The main reasons for supplementary feeding bee colonies are: ① In early spring, the stored honey of overwintering colonies is used up; ② During prolonged rainy weather, bees cannot leave the hive to forage, or nectar sources are lacking, and the honey and pollen collected by bees are insufficient for their consumption; ③ Overwintering feed for colonies is insufficient; ④ To supplement feed for newly split colonies. Under the above circumstances, frame feeders or top feeders should be used for large amounts of feeding in a relatively short time.
(2) Reward feeding
The purposes of reward feeding are: ① In spring, to stimulate the queen to lay eggs and accelerate colony development and strengthening; ② Before the major honey flow period, to promote queen egg-laying and cultivate age-appropriate foragers for the main nectar source; ③ In autumn, to cultivate large numbers of overwintering bees. Reward feeding uses small amounts each time and lasts a long time, usually using bottle feeders.
Feed can be divided into thick feed, thin feed, honey-pollen mixed feed, and dry sugar. ① Thick feed: Supplementary feeding uses thick feed. That is, 4 parts honey to 1 part boiling water, stir to dissolve; 2 parts white granulated sugar to 1 part water, dissolve over low heat; add 0.1% tartaric acid to the syrup, boil and immediately remove from heat, which can promote the inversion of sucrose syrup. Tartaric acid is available at chemical raw material or chemical reagent stores. ② Thin feed: 1 part honey to 1 part water or 1 part sugar to 2 parts water, stir to dissolve, used for reward feeding. ③ Honey-pollen mixed feed: Dissolve 10 parts honey in 10 parts boiling water, after cooling mix in 1 part pollen. When producing royal jelly, feeding honey-pollen mixed feed can stimulate bees to secrete royal jelly; when building combs, feeding this feed can increase beeswax secretion and accelerate comb building. ④ Dry sugar: During the bee activity season, dry sugar can be fed. Cut a round hole 20 mm in diameter in the center of a wooden inner cover, place white sugar on the inner cover, place it on the hive, and bees can feed on it. Be careful to cover the hive tightly.
2. Feeding Pollen
Pollen is the protein feed of bees and should be supplemented when pollen is lacking.
(1) Pollen combs: When pollen sources are abundant, pollen combs can be removed from colonies, collected and placed in supers, added to a few colonies, and let bees store them for future needs.
(2) Pollen sugar cakes: Mix 4 kg pollen with about 7.5 kg thick syrup evenly to make sugar cakes of appropriate softness and hardness. When feeding bees, spread it on the top bars of the hive, cover with 1 sheet of wax paper or plastic film. Feed 100-300 g per colony each time, with the amount adjusted so the colony can consume it within 7-10 days.
3. Feeding Pollen Substitutes
Defatted soybean flour, yeast powder, milk powder, soybean milk, etc. all contain rich protein and can be used as pollen substitutes.
(1) Defatted soybean flour: Soak 1 kg dry pollen in 1 kg warm water for 12 hours to loosen the pollen balls, add 3 kg defatted soybean flour (fresh soybean cake after oil extraction ground into fine powder; homemade substitute can use roasted soybeans ground into fine powder), mix with 6.5 kg thick syrup to make sugar cakes. Feeding method is the same as above.
(2) Yeast powder: Soak 1 kg dry yeast in 1 kg warm water for 1 hour, add to 10 kg thin syrup, boil, let cool, and feed to bees. Feed about 300 g per colony each time, with the amount adjusted so it is consumed within 2 days. Dried yeast tablets (medicinal tablets crushed) can also be used as a substitute.
4. Feeding Water
Water is an indispensable substance for maintaining bee life activities, and bees also use water to regulate hive temperature and humidity. When nectar sources are available, bees can obtain water from nectar. In early spring and dry summer periods, hundreds of bees in a colony work exclusively as water collectors each day. Feeding water inside the hive or at the entrance can reduce bee labor and casualties. ** In arid areas, colonies also need to be fed water at the entrance during the overwintering period. Set up water dispensers at the apiary, or water basins with floating boards; bottle feeders can also be used to feed water at the entrance, or frame feeders to feed water inside the hive.
5. Feeding Salt
Bee life activities also require a small amount of inorganic salts. When feeding water, add about 0.1% table salt to the water. High salt concentration is harmful to bees.
　　
VIII. Handling of Robbing Bees and Absconding Bees
Robbing bees refer to bees that fly into other hives to steal honey. Sometimes one colony robs another, sometimes several colonies rob one, or they rob each other indiscriminately. It usually occurs within the same apiary, but can sometimes be caused by colonies from neighboring apiaries. Weak colonies and queenless colonies are often robbed first. The robbed colony's stored honey is stolen, worker bees die in large numbers, and even the queen may be bitten and injured or killed, causing losses to production. Therefore, beekeepers should analyze the causes and promptly carry out prevention and suppression work. Robbing is most likely to occur during periods with few nectar sources; improper feeding and management, such as gaps in the hive, entrances being too large, opening the hive for inspection for too long, and spilling honey or syrup during honey harvesting and feeding, can easily trigger robbing; improper mite treatment can also easily trigger robbing. Prevention of robbing mainly involves carefully doing a good job in feeding and management: when the nectar flow period is about to end, promptly remove empty combs and tighten the hive; leave sufficient stored honey in the hive; queenless colonies and overly weak colonies should be merged promptly; repair old and damaged hives. When nectar sources are interrupted, reduce the entrance, open the hive for inspection as little as possible, and if necessary, do it in the early morning or evening; feeding bees and adjusting honey combs should be done in the evening, feeding strong colonies first, preventing honey from spilling outside the hive. If accidentally spilled on the hive, immediately wipe clean with a wet cloth; if spilled on the ground, cover tightly with soil. When robbing occurs, the area in front of the robbed colony's entrance is chaotic, with many bees flying rapidly around; contrary to normal, bees entering the hive have empty abdomens and those leaving have distended abdomens; some worker bees bite and kill each other, and many dead bees appear on the ground; bees gather at the seams between the cover and the hive body trying to squeeze in. After beekeepers detect robbing, they should try to stop it as soon as possible; if it spreads and expands, it becomes very difficult to stop. General treatment is to narrow the robbed colony's entrance to only allow one or two bees to pass, continuously spray water at the entrance to stop robbing bee activity, use weeds or leafy branches to conceal the entrance, or apply kerosene in front of the entrance to drive away robbing bees. When there are few robbing bees, move the robbing colony 10 m away, place an empty hive with empty combs in the original location, and restore the robbing colony to its original position after one or two days. If most colonies are affected by robbing and the apiary is on the flight path of bees from another apiary, the only option is to move the apiary to stop it.
If natural swarming is caused by management negligence, the old queen will lead some worker bees to abscond, forming an absconding swarm. Absconding can also be caused by predator invasion, robbing disturbance, honey shortage and starvation, smoke or vibration, or unpleasant odors inside the hive. The absconding swarm initially clusters on nearby trees or buildings; at this time, capture should be done promptly, as the swarm will fly far away if too much time passes. The capture method is to prepare an empty hive with one larva comb, an appropriate amount of honey combs and empty combs inside. If the swarm clusters on a branch, gently saw off the branch and shake the swarm into the empty hive. If the swarm clusters at a height, use an empty comb sprayed with a little honey held below the swarm to attract them; after catching the queen and placing her in the hive, the other bees will automatically enter the hive. If it is natural swarming, inspect and adjust the original colony, remove surplus empty combs, select and keep the best natural queen cell, destroy the rest, forming a mating colony. If absconding is caused by other reasons, quickly identify the cause, and improve feeding and management according to different situations. To prevent colonies in the same apiary from absconding one after another, immediately temporarily close the entrances of the entire apiary or neighboring hives, and reopen the entrances after the absconding swarm has been dealt with.
　　
IX. Natural Swarming and Its Control
Before a colony carries out natural swarming, there is a preparatory period called swarming fever. Specific manifestations are: bees build several queen cell bases along the edges of combs, forcing the queen to lay eggs in them. After the queen lays eggs in the queen cells at different times, bees reduce feeding the queen, causing her egg-laying rate to drop rapidly, and after about a week, the queen completely stops laying eggs. The sudden change in the queen's egg-laying causes a large reduction in colony brood-rearing work, and more and more bees with nothing to do often gather at the entrance forming a "bee beard." The queen's ovaries shrink and her body weight decreases, preparing her to fly away with the swarm. Before the swarm departs, each bee that will leave fills its honey stomach with honey, to serve as food during the journey and for building combs in the new nest.
When colonies are cultivating age-appropriate foragers for the major honey flow period (from 45 days before the main nectar flow period begins to 30 days before it ends) and during the major honey flow period, natural swarming will weaken colony strength, leaving no capacity to collect and store surplus honey, which will seriously affect honey production. Only natural swarming occurring within 20 days before the major honey flow period begins will not reduce the colony's honey collection. However, swarming colonies are at risk of absconding, and capturing swarming colonies is also troublesome. Therefore, when colonies are found building queen cells, control measures should be taken.
1. Breeding Colonies with Weak Swarming Tendency
Select colonies that are not prone to swarming and can maintain strong populations as breeding stock, and artificially rear queens. Use 1-year-old queens with strong egg-laying capacity, and cull aging queens with weak egg-laying capacity at any time.
Strengthening Management
Focus on increasing the queen's egg-laying rate and increasing the workload of bees. When colonies enter the development period, use high-quality combs to expand the hive; when the colony develops to 10 frames of bees and 7-8 frames of brood, promptly add a super to expand the hive and fully utilize the queen's egg-laying performance. When nectar and pollen sources are available, build combs and produce royal jelly. During swarming season, inspect colonies once daily and cut out queen cells.
3. Using Strong to Support Weak, Balancing Colony Strength
Shake bees off sealed brood combs from colonies showing swarming fever, and exchange them with unsealed brood combs without bees from newly split colonies or weak colonies, increasing the brood-rearing workload of bees. When individual colonies show swarming fever during the major honey flow period, first remove the queen cells, then swap hive positions with a weak colony, letting forager bees fly into the weak colony, and simultaneously add appropriate combs to the weak colony.
4. Artificial Swarming
When a colony reaches 10 frames of bees and 7-8 frames of brood, take 1 frame of sealed brood with bees from each colony every 6-7 days to form artificial colonies of 3-5 frames (introducing a queen or queen cell). Stop removing combs for splitting half a month before the major honey flow period.
5. Partitioning the Hive
First cut out all queen cells in the colony, leave only the queen and 1 unsealed brood comb in the center of the brood chamber, fill both sides with empty combs and foundation frames, place a queen excluder and a super filled with empty combs on top, then add the original super and other brood combs. Since the hive is partitioned into two parts by the empty comb super, it not only stimulates bees to actively build combs, suppressing swarming fever, but also, due to the expansion of the hive, creates conditions for colony development.
　　
X. Searching for and Capturing Wild Bees
The mountain forests in various regions contain large numbers of wild Chinese bees. Capturing and improving their management is of great significance to the development of the beekeeping industry. Capturing wild bees has two methods: trapping and hunting.
　　
1. Trapping Chinese Bees
Trapping wild Chinese bees involves placing empty hives in places suitable for their life, luring swarming colonies or migrating Chinese bees to fly in on their own. The following points should be mastered when trapping:
(1) Choosing a location
To attract wild bee colonies, choose a location with relatively abundant nectar and pollen sources, a nearby water source, a sunny mountain foot or mountainside, suitable microclimate, and prominent landmarks for placing hives.
(2) Timing
Trapping success rate is high during the bee swarming season. April-May in the north and November-December in the south are suitable periods for trapping Chinese bees. In the subtropical regions of the south, nectar sources are scarce in August-September, and wild colonies may migrate, making it also suitable for capture.
(3) Preparing hives
Soak and wash new hives with rice water to remove the smell of wood, air dry, and coat the inner walls with beeswax. Place 3-5 combs with wire and narrow foundation strips in the hive, add partition boards on both sides, and fill the gaps in the hive with dry grass. The entrance should be 8 mm wide. Place it at a rock or tree trunk, and use stones to raise the hive off the ground. Old bee barrels with wax foundation have a honey-wax smell and are suitable for attracting wild colonies.
(4) Regular inspection
During swarming season, inspect once every 3 days. After prolonged rain followed by clear weather, check promptly. If wild bees have already moved in, wait until evening when bees have returned to the hive, close the entrance, and move back for keeping. If old bee barrels are used, transfer to hives for keeping as soon as possible.
　　
2. Hunting Chinese Bees
Hunting is based on the nesting habits and patterns of wild bees, tracking returning bees to find the wild bee nest, and then capturing them. Hunting wild bees is more suitable in summer in the north; south of the Yangtze River, Chinese bees are active year-round, and it is better to do it during April-May and October-November when the climate is warm, nectar sources are abundant, and colonies are strong.
(1) Tracking foraging bees
On a sunny morning between 9 and 11 a.m., go into the mountains and pay attention to searching for foraging bees, observing their flight activity and direction when they return to the nest. When foraging bees take off from a flower, they often circle in flight, then fly off toward the direction of the hive. If a returning bee makes 1 circle when it takes off and its flight height is below 5 m, this indicates that the hive is relatively far away and difficult to track. When you find bees foraging on flowers, you can hold out a small dish filled with honey in your hand, and when a bee comes to gather honey and then returns, follow its flight direction step by step, and eventually you can find the hive. In mountain areas where bees are active, smear honey on leaves at a height of 2 m above the ground, and at the same time burn some old combs so that a honey-wax scent is given off. If bees are attracted, observe carefully the flight and direction of the returning bees. Also, at a place about 10 m away, use the same method to observe the flight route of returning bees. By tracking in the direction where the two flight lines intersect, it is possible to find the hive. Another method is to use a piece of string several tens of cm long, tie 1 small strip of paper to one end, and tie the other end to the waist of a captured foraging bee, then release it. A bee carrying a paper strip flies slowly and is easy to track.
(2) Tracking water-collecting bees
Bees often collect water at places near the hive where there is a water source, so carefully observe by the stream, by the field edge, or in depressions with accumulated water. If water-collecting bees are found, it indicates that the hive is no more than 1 km away from this place.
(3) Looking for bee feces
When bees perform group flight (orientation flight) or cleansing flight, they often deposit feces near the hive. If yellow bee feces are found on leaves or weeds, it indicates that there is a hive nearby.
(4) Searching tree hollows
Bees often build nests inside tree trunks with hollow cavities. You can ask people who often go into the mountains, such as herbal medicine gatherers and hunters, to provide clues. Along the forest edge, carefully search large trees with holes.
(5) Hunting and capture methods
After finding the nest of wild bees, prepare various tools: such as a knife, axe, chisel, and hoe for digging open caves, as well as a smoker (or mugwort) for collecting bees, a bee collection cage (box), a face net, buckets, and so on.
① Collection and capture of tree-hollow bees or earth-hole bees: dig open the entrance of the hole. After being disturbed by vibration, most bees will suck honey and crawl away from the combs, then use smoke to drive the bees off the combs so they cluster in an empty place. Referring to the method of transferring a colony without turning the nest, cut the combs, fit them into frames, and collect the bees. During the operation, special attention must be paid to collecting the queen bee.
After collecting and capturing tree-hollow bees, the original tree hollow can be used to trap wild bees. Therefore, when chiseling open the tree hollow, protect the original nest cavity as much as possible, leave 1 part of the wax base, then repair it with bark, wood chips, and clay, leaving 1 entrance-exit hole.
② Collection and capture of rock bees: if the rock cavity cannot be chiseled open, first look for how many entrances there are, keep only 1 of the entrances and exits, and seal the rest with mud. Then put into the nest absorbent cotton dipped in 50% carbolic acid gas (or a cotton ball of camphor oil), and immediately insert a glass tube with a diameter of about 10 mm from the retained entrance-exit, with the other end extending into the hive entrance. Driven by the carbolic acid gas, the bees pass through the glass tube one after another into the hive. When you see that the queen bee has passed through the tube and the bees in the cavity have basically all come out, close the hive entrance and transport it back for handling.