Key Technical Points for Greenhouse Watermelon Cultivation
Greenhouse Watermelon Cultivation Techniques
Greenhouse watermelon is a warmth-loving and light-loving crop. During the growing period, certain temperature and light conditions must be ensured for the watermelon to grow well, flower and set fruit. When cultivating in a greenhouse or vinyl house, varieties should be selected that are tolerant of low temperatures and weak light, disease-resistant and high-yielding, with low female flower node positions , and easy fruit setting, such as Sumi No. 1, Zaohua, Du No. 3, Zhengza No. 5 and Jingxin No. 1, etc. For greenhouse watermelon, sow and raise seedlings in mid-to-early February in an electric heating seedbed inside the greenhouse or in a solar greenhouse, with a seedling age of 35-40 days, 3-4 leaves. From mid-to-late March to early April, absolutely 20-30 days before the last late frost ends, when the 10cm ground temperature inside the greenhouse is above 12 degrees C and the minimum air temperature is above 8 degrees C, transplant.
After applying base fertilizer to the plot, make small raised beds at a row spacing of 0.8-1.2m, and lay plastic film. Dig holes and plant seedlings, with a plant spacing of 0.33-0.4m. In the early stage after transplanting set up small hoops, add paper quilts or straw mats at night, and set up surrounding film around the greenhouse for insulation. If a cold wave brings temperature drops, it is necessary to temporarily light a fire to raise the temperature or hang double-layer film, etc., for cold protection. After transplanting, water as little as possible, cultivate and hoe more, and after vines are drawn and fruit is set, topdress and water, applying 1000-1500kg of farmyard manure or 250-300kg of cake fertilizer in holes beside each plant per mu. During the fruit-swelling stage, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and urea solution on the leaves. Early-maturing varieties all use single-vine pruning, and some also keep one side vine at the base in addition to the main vine to set fruit. Each plant sets 1-2 fruits, and pinching is done after leaving 5-7 leaves ahead of the fruit.
After applying base fertilizer to the plot, make small raised beds at a row spacing of 0.8-1.2m, and lay plastic film. Dig holes and plant seedlings, with a plant spacing of 0.33-0.4m. In the early stage after transplanting set up small hoops, add paper quilts or straw mats at night, and set up surrounding film around the greenhouse for insulation. If a cold wave brings temperature drops, it is necessary to temporarily light a fire to raise the temperature or hang double-layer film, etc., for cold protection. After transplanting, water as little as possible, cultivate and hoe more, and after vines are drawn and fruit is set, topdress and water, applying 1000-1500kg of farmyard manure or 250-300kg of cake fertilizer in holes beside each plant per mu. During the fruit-swelling stage, spray 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate and urea solution on the leaves. Early-maturing varieties all use single-vine pruning, and some also keep one side vine at the base in addition to the main vine to set fruit. Each plant sets 1-2 fruits, and pinching is done after leaving 5-7 leaves ahead of the fruit.