How to raise maggots? Summary of key points in maggot breeding technology

Analysis of maggot breeding benefits:
    Maggot meal has a crude protein content as high as 56%-63% (averaging 59.5%), 13% fat, 7% ash, and 3.1% carbohydrates. As a high-protein feed, the nutritional level of maggots is comparable to the best imported Peruvian fishmeal, 1.3 times that of soybean cake, and 1.9 times that of bone-and-meat meal. Fresh maggots contain 15% crude protein and 5.8% crude fat, and can not only be directly fed to conventional species such as pigs, chickens, ducks, and fish, but are also the best live bait for special animals such as shrimp, crabs, eels, yellow eels, American frogs, bullfrogs, seven-star fish, spotted fish, and turtles. In addition, maggots also have medicinal effects and serve as a high-protein nutritional supplement. Therefore, maggot breeding is the best feed raw material; in the entire feed production industry, maggots will participate as a raw material with relatively high nutritional properties. It seems that engaging in maggot breeding is also a channel for starting a business and getting rich, so how exactly should maggot breeding be carried out? What are the maggot breeding techniques? See the experience sharing below.
I. Heat preservation of the fly house
       Maggot breeding has very high requirements for indoor temperature, and the activities of flies are greatly affected by temperature. At 4-7°C they can only crawl, at 10-15°C they can fly, only above 20°C can they feed, mate, and lay eggs, and they are especially active at 30-35°C.
       Inside the room, use foam boards or plastic film to partition off some smaller spaces and make sealed, insulated fly-rearing houses of 4—10 cubic meters (with appropriate ventilation holes left), and keep the flies concentrated in these fly houses for separate rearing. Fly houses with poor light need a light bulb of 100W or more hung for supplemental lighting. When the fly house is kept warm but still below 20°C, appropriate heating should be carried out. Smaller fly houses can use electric lights or electric stoves for heating; for slightly larger fly houses, a honeycomb coal stove can be placed inside for heating, and the stove must be fitted with a cover, using an iron sheet chimney to lead the gas out of the fly house to prevent harmful gases from poisoning the flies.
II. Fermentation of manure material
⟧Feed formulas that can be used for feeding maggots:
1. Pig manure 60%  chicken manure 40%
2. Chicken manure 60%  pig manure 40%
3. Pig manure 80%  alcohol 10%  corn or wheat bran 10%
4. Cow manure 30%  pig manure or chicken manure 60%  rice bran or corn flour 10%
5. Okara or cassava residue 20—50%  chicken or pig manure 50—80%
6. Chicken manure 100% or pig manure 100%
       After the manure material is prepared, add about 10% chopped straw, evenly pour in EM active bacteria (add 5 kg per ton of manure), make the manure material 90—100% moisture, and seal it in a fermentation pit for fermentation. On the third day, turn the manure, and add another 3 kg of EM per ton of manure. Generally after 5—6 days the manure material is ready for use. In spring, when temperatures are relatively low, the fermentation time of the manure material should be appropriately shortened, so that the manure material can still ferment and generate heat during the process of feeding maggots, which can reduce or eliminate the need for external heating sources, and the maggots can still grow normally.
III. Careful management of flies
       A 10-square-meter fly house must guarantee at least 20,000 or more flies. Every 2—3 days, an appropriate amount of maggots should be left to turn into pupae and emerge as flies, because the lifespan of flies is generally about 15 days, and the breeding flies are aging and dying every day.
       Every morning, the flies must be fed on schedule. The feed ingredients are 350 grams of water, 50 grams of brown sugar, and a small amount of milk powder (amount used for a 10-square-meter breeding area). To increase the egg production of flies, add 2 grams of egg-promoting hormone (egg-promoting hormone should be fed for 3 days, then stopped for 3 days before use again). After the above raw materials are dissolved, add them to the sponge in the feeding tray, and use another small tray to hold a small amount of brown sugar blocks for the flies to feed on. The feeding tray and sponge must be cleaned every 1—2 days.
       Every afternoon, use a basin to hold egg-collecting material and place it in the fly house so the flies can lay eggs on it. The egg-collecting material can be fresh animal viscera or wheat bran mixed with fresh pig blood, etc. In the evening, use a small amount of egg-collecting material to cover the egg mass to facilitate hatching. The next day, bring out the egg-collecting material together with the egg mass and add it to the manure heap in the maggot-rearing pool.
IV. Fine rearing of maggots
       After the manure material is fermented, pile it into the maggot-rearing pool, forming 3—5 ridge-shaped manure rows with a height of 20—30cm. Add the egg-collecting material with fly eggs taken from the fly house onto the manure material, then add another batch the next day. The hatched young maggots will burrow into the manure material to feed.
       During the rearing process, if it is found that the hatched young maggots keep wandering on the surface of the manure material and do not burrow into the manure, an appropriate amount of bran mixed with pig blood or fresh animal viscera should be added for feeding. If the maggots come out of the manure material and crawl everywhere before they have grown up, it indicates that the manure material has poor air permeability or that the nutrients in the manure material have been exhausted. Depending on the situation, the material should be turned or new manure material should be added as soon as possible.