Causes and Solutions for Yellowing Leaves on Bromeliads
The bromeliad, also known as ornamental bromeliad or pineapple flower, is native to the forests stretching from Mexico to southern Brazil and northern Argentina, and is a fairly well-known holiday flower. Many plant enthusiasts find that after keeping a bromeliad at home for a while, its leaves turn yellow, and they don't know what has gone wrong with the plant. Below, let's take a look at what to do when bromeliad leaves turn yellow!
Overwatering
When watered too much, the potting soil stays wet for a long time, causing a lack of oxygen in the soil, rotting some of the fibrous roots, hindering normal respiration and the absorption of water and nutrients, and causing leaves to turn yellow and drop. After being affected, the young leaves first turn pale yellow, then the older leaves gradually yellow as well. Watering should be controlled immediately, fertilizing suspended, and the soil loosened frequently to give it good aeration.
Drought and Dehydration
Missing watering or long-term half-watering (that is, wet on top and dry below) affects nutrient absorption and also easily causes dull, lusterless leaves that wilt and droop. First the lower old leaves age, then gradually wither, yellow and drop from bottom to top. At this point, water lightly and mist the plant, allowing it to gradually recover before returning to normal watering.
Long-Term Fertilizer Deficiency
If nitrogen fertilizer has not been applied for a long time or the pot and soil have not been changed, the soil lacks nutrients such as nitrogen, causing weak branches and leaves and thin, yellow foliage. The plant should be repotted promptly into fresh, loose, fertile potting soil, and gradually given dilute, well-rotted liquid fertilizer or compound flower fertilizer.
Overfertilizing
When too much fertilizer is applied, new leaves become thick and fleshy with many bumps and hollows, while old leaves dry at the tips, scorch yellow and drop. Fertilizing should be stopped immediately and watering increased so the fertilizer drains out through the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, or the plant should be repotted at once, the root ball rinsed with water and then replanted in the pot.
Hot, High Temperatures
In summer, if flowers that prefer cool conditions (such as cyclamen, fuchsia and wax begonia) are placed in a hot spot under direct strong sunlight, the tips and edges of young leaves are very likely to scorch, or the leaves yellow and drop. The plants should be moved promptly to a well-ventilated, shady spot.
Excessive Shade
If sun-loving flowers are kept for a long time in deep shade or in a spot with insufficient light, their branches and leaves will turn yellow.
Alkaline Soil and Water
In most areas of the north, the soil and water contain relatively high levels of salt and alkali. When acid-loving flowers such as rhododendron, camellia, Michelia figo, gardenia, orchid, Michelia alba and osmanthus are planted there, the leaves gradually turn yellow because the soil lacks absorbable soluble iron and other elements. Acidic soil should be used when planting, and alum fertilizer water applied regularly during the growing season.
Too Dense and Poorly Ventilated
If too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied, the branches and leaves grow overly lush, and combined with a long period without pruning, the inner branches and leaves do not get enough light, which easily causes leaves to yellow and drop. Fertilize sensibly and prune more to improve ventilation and light penetration.
Dry Air
When indoor air is excessively dry, some flowers that love a humid environment, such as spider plant and orchid, often show dried leaf tips or scorched leaf edges. Measures such as misting and covering with a plastic film cover should be taken to increase air humidity.
Improper Temperature
If the indoor temperature is too low in winter, flowers that like high temperatures are often harmed by the cold, which causes leaves to turn yellow and, in severe cases, wither and die. If the indoor temperature is too high, the plant transpires excessively, and the roots cannot supply enough water and nutrients, which also turns the leaves yellow. Be sure to adjust the room temperature promptly.
Too Acidic Soil
Red soil in the south is on the acidic side, and elements such as magnesium are easily lost. When alkali-tolerant or slightly alkaline-loving trees and shrubs such as oleander, boxwood and winter jasmine are planted there, the old leaves often show yellowing between the veins. Calcium-magnesium phosphate fertilizer can be applied, or a magnesium sulfate solution sprayed.
Damage from Pests and Diseases
Leaf spot disease caused by infection with fungi and other pathogens easily causes localized death of leaf tissue, with yellow spots or patches appearing, and in severe cases the whole leaf withers, yellows and drops. After infection by mosaic virus, mottled yellow-green patches appear on the leaves. When attacked by scale insects, red spider mites and the like, leaves also turn partly yellow and withered, or even the whole leaf wilts, yellows and drops. In all cases, pesticide should be sprayed promptly for control.
Strong Irritants
Using pesticide at too high a concentration when controlling pests and diseases, or contamination by toxic gases in the air, or suddenly watering with cold water when the temperature is high, can all easily cause the leaf tips or parts of the leaf surface to turn yellow and scorch, or even kill the whole plant. Therefore, pesticide should be used sensibly and sources of air pollution should be eliminated. In midsummer, avoid watering flowers with cold water around midday. Finally, it should also be mentioned that yellow leaves on a potted flower are sometimes caused by a single reason, but are often the result of multiple factors; a correct diagnosis is needed to treat the right cause.