When these signs appear in succulents, it means they have entered their growing season, and you need to change your care routine.

Based on the ecological habits of succulents, they can generally be divided into winter-growing, summer-growing, and spring-autumn-growing types. The so-called winter-growing type goes dormant in summer and grows in winter. The summer-growing type goes dormant in winter and grows in summer. The spring-autumn type goes dormant in summer and winter, and grows in spring and autumn. Overwatering, air that is too humid, and failure to control pests can all cause succulents to rot. A rotting succulent looks faded and soft. If you find a rotting succulent, you need to cut it off as soon as possible, and it is best to sterilize the tools you have used to avoid infecting other plants.

In autumn, temperatures in many northern regions have already dropped quite a bit, and in many areas the temperature has stabilized below 30 degrees, but in some southern regions the temperature is still a little high, so if you want your succulents to enter their growing season, you still have to wait a while. When these three phenomena appear, it means the succulents have already woken from dormancy and entered their growing season, and the obvious change is that the succulent plants have grown quite a bit bigger.

For caring for succulents during the growing season, sunlight is very important, so let your plants come into contact with it more. If you run into scorching sun, you only need to shade them a little, for example by placing them beside a glass window. Plants all have the characteristic of growing toward the light, so while letting them enjoy the sunlight, remember to turn them to a different direction every few days to prevent them from leaning to one side. Generally speaking, the growing medium for succulents should be replaced once every 1-2 years, both to loosen the soil and to top-dress with fertilizer.

Grafting should be carried out during the growing season, and the most suitable season is the peak growth period in early summer. Choose a sunny day with high temperature and humidity for grafting; when the air is dry, it is best to do it in the early morning. When selecting the rootstock and scion, choose healthy, disease-free ones, and do not use parts that are too old and woody, but ones that are too tender are also not suitable. The height of the rootstock interface is determined by many factors; varieties without chlorophyll should be grafted higher to ensure an adequate supply of light and assimilates. Grafting cacti is relatively simple to carry out, using a thinner blade.

When a succulent that has been growing for several years sprouts many side shoots on its stem, this shows that the succulent has already entered its growing season, and you can appropriately increase the amount of water and change your care routine. If you have cut off water from the succulent for the whole summer, then when you water again, water a little less, and gradually increase the amount of water, so the root system has time to adjust. Succulents grown outdoors sometimes grow much bigger after a rain shower, and some succulents that have not grown for a long time also suddenly grow bigger, which also shows that the succulent is about to enter its growing season and start growing madly.

Propagation by cuttings has the advantages of fast growth, early flowering, and maintaining the original variety's characteristics. Because succulents do not wither easily, not only do cuttings root easily, but many species can also be propagated by leaf cuttings. Points to note when taking cuttings: it is best to take cuttings when growth begins at the Spring Festival, take material from healthy plants or parts, disinfect them to avoid infection of the cut, and choose mature plants from which to take material. Freshly cut material should not be inserted immediately; it should be placed in a dry, ventilated, warm place with scattered light so that callus tissue forms and seals the wound before it is inserted into the growing medium.

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