When is the best time for fruit tree bud grafting? August is exactly the right time

Choose good buds.

For the graft bud, select plump, well-filled buds from the middle section of the scion; neither the tender buds at the upper end nor the dormant buds at the lower end should be used. The size of the bud chip should be appropriate. If too small or too large, it will not survive easily. At the same time, the graft bud must have vascular bundles (commonly known as the bud pad), which are the pathway for the exchange of water and nutrients between the graft bud and the rootstock; without them, it is difficult to survive.

Grafting.

When grafting, be sure to select the rootstock first, and graft as you collect. When collecting scions (buds) from a distance, pay attention to moisture retention. Bud grafting mostly uses two methods: the "T" shape or the ring shape. For example, first cut a smooth spot on the root crown of the rootstock 3-5 cm above the ground into a "T" shape, with the depth limited to reaching the xylem and being able to peel back the bark. Then use the tip of the knife to carefully peel open the bark at the "T" shape of the rootstock, insert the graft bud that has been cut into a shield shape with a leaf stalk, quickly and promptly fit the bud chip in place, tie it tightly, leaving only the bud and leaf stalk exposed.

After grafting, loosen the soil around the rootstock and mound it 10 cm high. After 10-15 days, dig away the soil and check the survival status. After grafting, you can also spray New High-Fat Film to prevent oxidation, prevent pathogen invasion, create a vacuum environment to inhibit the drying of sap, and increase the survival rate.

When the bud chip is fresh and light green and the leaf stalk falls off at a touch, it indicates that it has survived. For those that have not survived, regraft on the back side of the rootstock. (Danni)