Detailed Explanation of Schisandra Planting Methods and Technical Points

Schisandra is a traditional Chinese medicinal herb that is cultivated artificially. Pruning during harvest is the most critical step. Many people are still not quite clear about the pruning methods for schisandra. If pruning is done incorrectly, it will cause certain harm to the schisandra. Also, how should schisandra be stored after harvesting? You must all want to find the answers to these questions quickly, so let us now take a detailed look at the processing and storage methods for schisandra.

1. Row direction: The best row direction for schisandra cultivation is a north-south orientation, which provides good light exposure and good ventilation, laying the foundation for stable and high yields.

2. Trunk determination: Schisandra seedlings grow vigorously in the summer of the year they are transplanted. Select and retain 3—4 healthy lateral vine branches per plant and guide them onto poles. One seedling gets two poles, and each pole supports two main vines. Cut off the main stem of the original seedling. When each main vine branch grows to 50 cm long, pinch off the growing tip to determine the trunk, prompting the buds below the cut to grow young branches (i.e., short fruit branches, also called secondary shoots). When the young branches grow to 30 cm long, select one healthy branch and do not pinch its tip, letting it serve as an extended main vine branch. Pinch the remaining secondary shoots at 20 cm. In that year, only pinch the tips of secondary shoots; do not pinch the extended branches until the Beginning of Autumn.

3. Trellising: Liao schisandra is a monoecious plant, and the number of female flowers is the key to yield. In cultivation management, through pruning, improving ventilation and light conditions on the trellis surface can enhance leaf photosynthetic efficiency, increase the number of female flowers, and ensure stable and high yields. Pruning builds a good framework for stable and high yields. Before sap flow in early spring, cut each extended main vine branch from the previous year back to 30 cm long, and shorten each secondary shoot to 20 cm. For those without secondary shoots, also cut the extended main vine branch at 50 cm from the ground to determine the trunk. When each new secondary shoot emerging below the cut grows to 20 cm long, select and retain one secondary shoot without pinching its tip as the extended branch, and pinch all the rest at 20 cm to promote thick main vine branches and plump flower buds on the secondary shoots. When the extended main vine branch grows to 50 cm tall (including the original 30 cm), pinch again, and pinch the remaining secondary shoots at 30 cm, so that nutrients are concentrated in the main vine branches and secondary shoots. This can increase the number of female flowers and make the flower buds fully mature and plump. The third time, before and after the Beginning of Autumn, pinch any growing tip on sight, prompting the branches to lignify early to prevent frost damage and the occurrence of dried-up branches. 

4. Cyclic renewal: During heavy fruiting, before sap flow in early spring, shorten all secondary shoots (i.e., short fruit-bearing branches) back to 10—15 cm. During flowering and fruiting, new short fruit branches can emerge at the junction of the base and the main vine branch. Select and retain the healthy ones in good positions as fruit-bearing branches for the following year, and promptly remove the rest. When pruning the following year, cut off the old fruit-bearing branches and use new fruit-bearing branches for cyclic renewal; basically all pruning thereafter follows this method. In addition, when the main vine branch has not climbed high enough past the vertical pole, the branch will droop down. Promptly cut it at 10 cm from the top of the vertical pole to prevent a "straw hat" effect that is unfavorable for light penetration.