When these signs appear in succulents, it means they have entered the growing season and the care routine needs to be adjusted
According to the ecological habits of succulents, they can generally be divided into winter types, summer types and spring-autumn types. The so-called winter type means dormant in summer and growing in winter. The summer type is dormant in winter and grows in summer. The spring-autumn type is dormant in summer and winter, and grows in spring and autumn. Overwatering, air that is too humid, and failure to repel insects can all cause succulents to rot. A rotting succulent takes on a faded colour and becomes soft. If you find a rotting succulent, you need to cut it off as soon as possible, and it is best to disinfect the tools used to avoid infecting other plants.
In autumn, temperatures in many northern regions have already dropped quite a bit, and in many areas the temperature has steadily stayed below 30 degrees, but in some southern regions the temperature is still a little high, so you still have to wait a while for succulents to enter the growing season. When these three phenomena appear, it means the succulents have woken up from dormancy and entered the growing season. The obvious change is that the succulents have grown a lot bigger.
When caring for succulents during the growing season, sunlight is very important. Let your plants come into contact with it more. If they encounter strong sun, they only need a little shade, for example by placing them next to a glass window. Plants all have a tendency to grow toward the light. While letting them enjoy the sun, remember to turn them around every few days to prevent them from leaning in one direction. Generally speaking, the growing medium for succulents should be replaced once every 1 to 2 years, both to loosen the soil and to top-dress with fertiliser.
Grafting should be carried out during the growing season. The most suitable season is the peak growing period in early summer, and grafting should be done on a sunny day with high temperature and humidity. When the air is dry, it is best to do it in the early morning. When choosing rootstock and scion, choose healthy, disease-free ones, and do not use parts that are too old and woody, but ones that are too tender are also unsuitable. The height of the rootstock cut surface is determined by many factors. Varieties without chlorophyll should be grafted higher to ensure an adequate supply of light and assimilates. Grafting cacti is relatively simple; use a thinner blade to do it.
When a succulent that has been growing for several years bursts out with many side shoots on its stem, it means the succulent has entered the growing season and you can appropriately increase the amount of water and change the care routine. If you have withheld water from the succulent for the whole summer, water a little less when you water again and gradually increase the amount of water, giving the roots time to adjust. Succulents grown outdoors sometimes grow a lot bigger after a rain shower, and some succulents that have not grown for a long time suddenly grow bigger too. This also shows that the succulent is about to enter the growing season and start growing madly.
Propagation by cuttings has the advantages of fast growth, early flowering and maintaining the original variety's characteristics. Because of their characteristic of not wilting easily, succulents are not only easy to root from cuttings, but many species can also be propagated by leaf cuttings. Points to note when taking cuttings: it is best to take cuttings when growth begins at the Spring Festival, take material from healthy plants or parts, and disinfect them to avoid infection of the cut. Choose mature plants for material. Freshly collected cuttings should not be planted immediately; they should be placed in a dry, ventilated, warm place with indirect light so that the wound forms callus tissue and closes before being inserted into the growing medium.
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