How to Fertilize Pothos Properly? A Detailed Guide to the Correct Fertilization Method
Pothos survives as soon as it touches water, and because of its tenacious vitality it is called the "flower of life." When grown indoors, whether in a pot or as a few stem cuttings in water, it can grow well. It can be allowed to climb a cylinder made of palm fiber, or trained into a hanging form and placed in a study or on a windowsill, or simply grown in a pot. Now let us take a look at how to fertilize pothos properly!
How to Fertilize Pothos?
Pothos fertilization is mainly nitrogen fertilizer, supplemented by potassium fertilizer. Before the pothos growth period arrives in spring, apply a 0.3% solution of ammonium sulfate or urea once every 10 days or so, and apply a 0.5-1‰ urea solution as a foliar fertilizer once. This can both satisfy the growth needs of pothos and maintain the green gloss of the leaves. Fertilization should be stopped in winter. At the same time, each time you water the pothos you can add a compound fertilizer at a concentration of 1000 times, and apply a 600-times compound fertilizer once every half month.
How to Water Pothos?
When watering pothos, be careful not to pour water directly into the pot. Instead, first slowly pour in the water, wait for it to seep down, then spray evenly and wait for the water to penetrate. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the palm pole, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly fast evaporation. Watering must be thorough each time to maintain soil moisture. In the north, pothos can safely overwinter at a room temperature above 10°C, and can grow normally at a room temperature above 20°C. When watering in winter, first let the water sit indoors for a day, and water only after it is basically the same as room temperature, so that the water is not too cold and damages the pothos roots.
How to Grow Pothos?
1. Light: Pothos does not have a strong tendency toward the sun. But in the north during autumn and winter, to supplement the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, the light intensity should be increased. At the same time, when the temperature is low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.
2. Humidity: Pothos grows faster in an environment with higher air humidity. It is recommended to maintain indoor humidity. You can use a humidifier to increase air humidity, or cover the plant with a transparent plastic bag to create a mini-greenhouse effect, but it should not exceed two hours.
3. Temperature: Pothos is very sensitive to temperature. If the temperature is too low, it is easily frostbitten. A room temperature of around 20 degrees is enough. If heating equipment is on, the pothos leaves should not be too close to it. Keeping the indoor temperature above 10 degrees is enough for it to safely pass the winter.
4. Fertilization: Because pothos absorbs nutrients indoors less abundantly than outdoors, it is recommended to apply fertilizer once every half month. You can buy fertilizer specially made for pothos on the market. Or ask the florist to help choose fertilizer.
5. Watering: When watering pothos, do not pour water directly into the pot. Instead, first slowly pour in the water, wait for it to seep down, then spray evenly and wait for the water to penetrate. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow, to reduce insufficient root water uptake caused by overly fast evaporation.
6. Shaping: Pothos shaping and pruning is carried out in spring. When the stems and vines have covered the palm pole and the tips extend about 20 cm beyond the palm pole, cut off 40 cm of the stem tips of 2-3 of the plants. After new buds and new leaves sprout following the cutback, then cut off the stem tips of the remaining plants.
7. Pests and Diseases: Pothos plants are easily affected by problems with pests and pathogens. Typical pests affecting pothos include mealybugs, red spider mites, scale insects, and so on. Mealybugs are usually the most common, and can be controlled with alcohol, removed with a cotton swab, or picked off by hand.