Avoid these mistakes in succulent leaf propagation to get sprouting and rooting

If you have been growing succulents for a long time, friends who have always heard about leaf propagation will always want to propagate a few succulents themselves from leaves. However, many people often end up failing because they do not really know how. In fact, leaf propagation is not that difficult. As long as you follow the process below and do not make these mistakes, you can also succeed at leaf propagation. When planting succulents, we often accidentally knock off leaves or remove three to five leaves from the lower end when pruning cuttings. This is when leaf propagation comes into use.

During succulent leaf propagation, you must control your hands and not pick them up to look often. If looking at them could make them root and sprout, then I would be willing to look at them 24 hours a day. The reason many flower lovers complain that leaf propagation does not root or sprout is simply that you are too impatient. It is just about to root, and you pick it up to take a look; it is just about to sprout, and you pick it up to take a look. To it, you are just tossing it around.

Choose a healthy succulent, then select an even healthier leaf on that succulent. When removing it, hold the leaf firmly and gently rock it left and right until it falls off. This can protect the growth point, which is the place where roots and sprouts grow. You can place the removed leaves in a cool, dry place to air-dry for about three days.

Some people say the survival rate of succulent leaf propagation is low in summer. In fact, the most suitable temperature for leaf propagation is 20~25 degrees. In summer, as long as you can control the temperature well, it will not affect the sprouting rate of leaf propagation. As long as the leaves are healthy and have a growth point, rooting and sprouting are only a matter of time. As for the container for leaf propagation, a shallow but wide pot is recommended, just like this bonsai pot, which is very easy to use. You can also choose a seedling tray, inserting one leaf in each cell, which also makes it very convenient to take them out for planting.

After that comes the placement of the leaves. In fact, laying them flat can also allow them to root and sprout. Here, the oblique insertion method is recommended. In this way, sprouting may be slightly slower than flat placement, but the root system can go directly into the soil. There is no need, as with flat placement, to bury the roots into the soil after they emerge or to cover them with soil again. Oblique insertion also does not require inserting very deep. Just make sure the leaf can stand obliquely on the soil surface. Do not press it too firmly, otherwise it may affect the new sprouts emerging from the soil. Do not directly insert the base of the leaf into the medium, as that can easily damage the roots.

Place the leaf-propagated Duo Rou Zhi Wu in a cool, ventilated place, or in a spot with bright, indirect light, and there is no need to water during this period. If you think the soil is too dry, you can still spray a moderate amount of water. Do not spray too much, as it can easily turn to mush. I have personally tested it: during leaf propagation, I sprayed water several times, and they all rooted afterward. After rooting, the leaves can be given a moderate amount of less water and a little light.

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