Don't panic if your orchid has root rot and spots - take it out, disinfect it, and it will be green and full of life again
The weather is getting hotter and hotter, and the orchids at home seem unable to take it - the leaf tips are turning yellow, black spots are appearing on the leaves, and the roots and stems have even started to rot! It turns out that summer is a period of high incidence for orchids, and 2 problems simply must be guarded against!
1. Premature leaf senescence
Gardening Encyclopedia
Generally, during the growth of orchids, in order to promote the sprouting and growth of new leaves, the tips and edges of old leaves will gradually turn yellow and wither from top to bottom, thereby saving nutrients - this is the normal phenomenon of leaf senescence.
But if the new leaves are also turning yellow and scorching, and even the pseudobulb is deforming and changing color, then the orchid leaves are undergoing premature senescence.
What to do about premature leaf senescence?
Premature leaf senescence will cause the orchid leaves to become sparse and turn black, and the plant will develop slowly or even stop developing. At this point, you should first check the state of the root system.
1. Mild root damage
If the root damage is not serious and the outer leaves wither, just cut them off in time, then control water and fertilizer - do not water unless dry, and water thoroughly when completely dry; in summer, apply a dilute liquid fertilizer once every 15 to 20 days or so.
2. Severe root damage
If the orchid's root system is severely damaged, the whole plant may undergo leaf senescence. In this case, you must repot and change the soil. After taking it out of the pot, first cut off the rotten root parts, then soak the entire root in a carbendazim solution for disinfection, and then repot it with fresh potting medium, taking care to expose the pseudobulb.
2. Infection with stem rot
Gardening Encyclopedia
If you find that the orchid leaves are gradually turning black from bottom to top, black spots are appearing on the leaf surface, and when you dig down to the roots you can even see that everything from the root crown to the pseudobulb has turned black, then you should be on alert - it is very likely infected with stem rot!
How to prevent and treat stem rot?
The peak period for stem rot is from June to September. During this period, temperatures are high, watering is frequent, and there are many pests, making orchids prone to infection by pathogens.
Prevention first - prevention is better than cure
1. During the high-temperature summer period, every 7 to 10 days, use carbendazim, chlorothalonil, or thiophanate-methyl and other antibacterial agents diluted 500 to 1000 times to spray and sterilize around the plant and on the leaf surface.
2. Treat wounds promptly, especially after division, immediately apply a wound healing agent to prevent infection and disease;
3. You can bury some carbofuran insecticide in the potting medium to prevent pests from infecting the pseudobulb.
How to treat it?
1. As soon as it is discovered, immediately cut off and burn the infected orchid plants and leaves;
2. Pull out the entire pot of orchids, wash them clean, cut off the diseased plants and rotten pseudobulbs, then place the remaining orchids, whole plant, in a difenoconazole solution slightly stronger than 500 times dilution, and soak for 1 full day.
3. After drying, change the soil and repot. Do not water, place in a cool and ventilated area for three days of care, and soak the orchid pot monthly with a fungicide diluted 500 to 1000 times, and it will gradually recover to health.
Note: Huahua reminds everyone that in high-temperature weather, you must frequently loosen the soil and ventilate your orchids to ensure normal root respiration. If you find it troublesome, you can use a fan to blow on them after watering~
Alright, that's all for the introduction to orchid "heat disease,"
Flower friends, have you all learned it?
?