Gardenias grow fastest in summer; care for them this way and in 10 days they will burst into a full pot and all the yellow leaves will be gone

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June is almost here - the peak season for gardenias, yet many flower lovers' gardenias are still suffering from yellow leaves and dropping buds. Today Huahua will share with everyone how to solve the 3 key problems of gardenias!
Key problem 1 - yellow leaves, what to do?
Y A N G H U A D A Q U A N
In summer, during the care of gardenias, yellowing, wilting and scorched leaves are most likely to appear. The main causes fall into 3 types:
water yellowing, fertilizer yellowing and iron deficiency
。Water yellowing
Symptoms
: from bottom to top, old leaves turn yellow first, new leaves next; yellowing spreads from the veins to the whole leaf.Causes
: 1, watering too much and too often, waterlogging; 2, potting soil too wet and too sticky, poor air permeability of the pot; 3, bottom leaves too dense, no ventilation.Solution
:Place the gardenia in a cool, ventilated spot,
prune overly dense and long branches and leaves to increase airflow. If the roots have already rotted, immediately change the soil and repot, choosing a clay pot with good air permeability.
Fertilizer yellowing
Symptoms
: old leaves and leaf veins turn yellow first, gradually the whole leaf turns yellow.
Solution
:When fertilizer yellowing appears, change the water and soak the pot several times, or water the roots with a slow, steady stream for about half an hour, to dilute the overly concentrated fertilizer in the soil.
Iron deficiency
Symptoms
: iron deficiency yellowing is chlorosis, leaves appear pale yellow or white-green, the veins remain green, in severe cases the whole leaf turns yellow-white, and may even dry up and fall off.
Solution:
When iron is deficient, spray with fermented alum fertilizer water or 0.1% ferrous sulfate.
Key problem 2: wilting, what to do?
Y A N G H U A D A Q U A N
Large-leaf gardenias just bought from a greenhouse or flower market are most prone to leaf wilting; the main reason is that the leaves are large and dense, the air humidity is too low, and water transpires too quickly.
Solution:
Gardenias need relatively high air humidity; first prune overly dense branches and leaves, then mist around the leaves 2~3 times a day to keep them moist.Key problem 3: dropping buds, what to do?
Y A N G H U A D A Q U A N
Potted gardenias are most prone to dropping flowers during the summer bud stage
Solution
: 1, when watering during the bud stage, do not spray the buds wet; 2, never repot during the bud stage, as it easily damages the roots; 3, when the soil is on the alkaline side, spray a mixture of diluted vinegar and ferrous sulfate.Gardenia care tips
Y A N G H U A D A Q U A N
1, Soil
Gardenias depend relatively heavily on acidic soil with strong air permeability and good drainage; ordinary pine needle soil and leaf mold mixed with fine sand and gravel will do.
2, Watering
: Gardenias like humid air and dislike waterlogging. Water according to the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet. When summer temperatures are high, you can water the potting soil shallowly until moist, without soaking it thoroughly with a large amount of water.3, Light:
Gardenias are strongly sun-loving flowers and have relatively high requirements for light and ventilation. Keep 50%~60% south-facing light each day, avoiding direct strong sunlight; for large-leaf gardenias, once the temperature climbs above 30, they must be shaded 50% outdoors, or sunned in the morning and evening with shade at noon.4, Fertilizing:
Gardenias like fertilizer, but newly acquired gardenias should not be given any fertilizer at all. After the seedling recovery period, apply once every 1~2 weeksfermented soybean cake, sesame paste residue, peanut bran and other fertilizers, or potassium dihydrogen phosphate. In summer
above 35°C and in autumn below 15°C, do not fertilize.In addition, watering gardenias with thoroughly fermented rice water or fruit peel water can both add nutrients and loosen the soil, while also adjusting acidity, benefiting flowering with no harm.
5, Pruning:
During the vigorous growth period from May to July, prune the leggy top branches and the overly dense, thin branches below to increase ventilation. After buds appear, keep 2~3 on each thick branch and 1 on weak branches, and cut off all the remaining buds and the idle leaves around them; after the flowers fade, prune the spent flowers, dead branches and the old leaves at the lower part of the flowering branches.That is all Huahua will share with everyone today,
Have all you flower lovers learned it?
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