Learn how to graft osmanthus in just a few minutes; it takes root in seven days and grows into a big tree covered in blooms

Xiao Qi

Teaches you how to grow flowers step by step

Today a flower friend asked me, how can you make an osmanthus grow thick? This question is easy to answer: either rely on the accumulation of time and let it grow on its own. Don't let it lack water or fertilizer; as long as it grows well for a few years, it will thicken up by itself. There is another method, which is to graft onto a thick rootstock. After grafting, it grows fast, and the plant's root system is well developed. This is the fastest way to get a thick osmanthus. Xiao Qi will explain how to graft osmanthus.

For grafting osmanthus, you can use chionanthus (fringetree), or you can use privet (Ligustrum); both are good. Their compatibility is quite good, and after the graft takes, they grow very fast.

First, let me explain where the cambium of the osmanthus is. Its cambium is the green part between the inner xylem (the white part) and the outer brown bark layer; that green part is the cambium. If you line up the cambium of the osmanthus with that of the chionanthus, it will take.

The best time to graft osmanthus is in spring when it starts to sprout, or in autumn. Choose a one-year-old lignified branch. You can keep one leaf or keep no leaves at all; either is fine.

Cut both sides of the branch into a wedge shape. Remember to cut both sides, and don't make the bottom too thin.

Then shorten the cut branch, keeping two buds.

Cut vertically down along one side of the chionanthus or privet rootstock. The depth of the cut should be about the same as the depth of the wedge cut on the branch.

Insert the osmanthus scion into the side of the chionanthus rootstock and align the cambium; be sure to align the cambium on one side. Leave a bit of white exposed at the top.

Use tying tape to bind the two tightly together; be sure to tie it firmly with the cambium aligned. Once tied well, wrap it with grafting film.

Wrap the top wound of the osmanthus scion with plastic wrap to prevent the wound from losing water too quickly, which would cause the scion to wither and the graft to fail.

Cover the top with a plastic bag and tie the bottom closed; you can leave a small hole at the top of the plastic bag for ventilation.

Grafting this way, it starts to take in about seven days or so, the buds begin to swell, and there are obvious signs of growth. During this period, no matter where on the rootstock a side shoot appears, it must be removed promptly. Place the grafted osmanthus in a cool, ventilated place; do not expose it to strong sun. When you see the buds coming out of the scion grow to more than two to three pairs of leaves, gradually remove the plastic bag; it must be removed gradually. At this point you can gradually increase light and return to normal care. During this period, about once a month, loosen the string tied at the bottom to prevent deformation at the graft site after the scion and rootstock heal together.

Using the grafting method, the rootstock's root system is very well developed, and its main trunk itself is already very thick. In about one year you can get a very large, very attractive, very thick osmanthus potted plant.

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