How to divide orchids? A detailed guide to dividing potted orchids

I. Conditions and timing for division propagation

Division is usually carried out after two or three years of growth, when the orchid plant has already filled the whole pot; it is also done to increase the germination rate, or to rapidly increase the number of propagated varieties, by dividing connected orchid clusters with more than 4 plants; and it is also done to prevent the degeneration of mutant plants caused by bud sport, by dividing connected mother-and-child cluster plants consisting of just one old and one new plant.

Division propagation of orchids can generally be carried out in all four seasons, but to ensure the survival rate, it is often done when the temperature is between 12°C and 30°C. According to their physiological characteristics, the best time is at the end of the flowering period. This is because at this time the vegetative growth of the orchid plant is sluggish, and not only have the new buds not germinated, but even the growth points of the buds have not yet swollen, so division is unlikely to cause accidental damage. At the same time, the flowering period has ended, so generally no more flower buds will grow, and there is no problem of damaging flower buds due to division. In addition, through division, the activity of vegetative growth can also be promoted, improving the orchid plant's ability to regain vigor and its germination rate.

II. Methods and procedures for division propagation

1. Lifting the plant: For a potted orchid that has already filled the pot, do not forcibly pull it out when removing it from the pot, otherwise the orchid plant will be damaged too much, either by breaking the plant's leaves or by breaking too many roots. Therefore, the orchid pot should be broken without hesitation to take out the orchid seedlings. Then shake off the substrate from the root ball and divide into clusters. If the substrate is compacted or sticky, it can only be rinsed apart with water before dividing into clusters. If it is a potted orchid that has not yet filled the pot, you can use your fingers to scrape away the substrate on the surface of the pot, slap the sides of the orchid pot hard a few times, then use a wooden stick to push the substrate loose from the hole at the bottom of the pot, then hold the rim of the pot with both hands, clamp the orchid plant and pot with your fingers, turn the orchid pot upside down while half suspended and shake it, and the orchid seedlings can be poured out.

2. Washing roots and drying roots: It is best to rinse the roots with tap water; soaking and washing easily transmits fungal diseases. After the substrate is washed off, spread the orchid plant in the sunlight, cover the orchid leaves with a shade net, and turn and sun-dry the orchid roots for two or three hours, so that the orchid roots become soft and tough, which is helpful for pulling apart the roots and dividing the plant.

3. Division: Because orchid plants like to grow in clusters, they should be separated according to their habits, using second-generation or third-generation connected plants as units. To increase the germination rate, the new and old plants of second-generation or third-generation connected cluster orchids can also be given a semi-separation treatment. This makes them both somewhat separated and not completely broken apart; it both forces them to be semi-independent and does not disturb their habits, so as to promote their growth and increase the germination rate.

4. Cleaning debris and disinfecting: When carrying out division propagation, cut off withered and rotten leaf sheaths and leaf stalks, loosen and remove diseased leaves and rotten roots, and the wounds can be smeared and disinfected with fungicides such as carbendazim and thiophanate-methyl. After all the orchid plants have been handled, soak and disinfect them together according to routine practice, then wash them clean and dry them, and they are ready for planting.

III. Planting and management of division propagation

When potting and planting the separated orchid plants, two points should be noted:

1. Do not let the substrate containing base fertilizer come close to the wounds of the orchid plant, to prevent rot. An effective method is to use thick paper or a thin plastic sheet to make a sleeve 2 to 3 cm smaller than the diameter of the orchid pot, put it around the stems and roots, and after placing it in the flowerpot, first fill the sleeve with substrate that does not contain base fertilizer, then fill the outside of the sleeve with substrate with fertilizer added, and after filling, carefully remove the sleeve.

2. Make all the new plants face the rim of the pot, leaving enough space for their development. The main management work after potting the new plants is: during low temperatures, build an arch frame for them and seal it with plastic film to keep the relative temperature around the orchid plants constant; during high temperatures, strengthen ventilation and cooling, so that the greenhouse temperature does not exceed 28°C. In addition, when the substrate is not yet somewhat dry, do not water it at all, and when the new roots have not yet grown, absolutely do not fertilize, to prevent root rot. But you can spray foliar fertilizer or rooting accelerator once a week. You can also dilute the foliar fertilizer and rooting accelerator several times more and spray them every other day. When watering the orchid plants, you can apply rooting accelerator at the same time. I publish orchid knowledge and pictures every day, taking you to understand orchids in depth and teaching you to easily grow orchids well. If there is anything about orchids you do not understand, you can ask me at any time or leave a message below. If my knowledge has helped you, I hope you can give me a like or share it to help more people!