The correct method for making cinder-based succulent soil mix

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Images and text: Curator

Many flower enthusiasts know that adding some coal briquette cinder to soil helps improve the soil, but quite a few enthusiasts do not understand the characteristics of cinder well. I have seen many enthusiasts say they just crush the coal briquettes with their feet and mix them into the soil. This not only does little to improve the soil, but actually damages the soil. However, no enthusiast online has come forward to explain this; they all just play Monday-morning quarterback after seeing someone get it wrong. So today I will give a detailed illustrated explanation of how to use coal briquettes in growing flowers, along with the principles and precautions.

First, let's talk about the source, where to get cinder. If your home does not burn a coal briquette stove, you can generally ask for it at breakfast stalls, chicken and duck vendors, snack shops (Lanzhou beef noodle shops), and similar places. It is best to choose cinder that has been thoroughly burned. Visually, the center should look slightly red and rough. Coal briquettes that have not been thoroughly burned have some black areas when broken open, and are not suitable for use.

Cinder mixed into soil serves to disperse the soil, meaning it keeps the soil from easily sticking together. It keeps the soil in a loose state at all times. This improves the soil's water permeability and air permeability. Once this physical property of the soil is improved, the plant's root system will become well developed, and once the root system is well developed, the flowers will naturally grow well. Soil mixed with cinder also will not shrink and separate from the pot edge when dry, and even after drying out completely, it is easy to water thoroughly. Generally, the mixing ratio with soil needs to reach (1 part soil : 1 part coal ash -- 2 parts soil : 1 part coal ash) for it to be effective.

Many flower enthusiasts say cinder is alkaline and not suitable for growing acid-loving flowers, but my testing found that the cinder solution is neutral. So I believe acid-loving flowers can use it as well (if my claim is wrong, please correct me, experts). Another point: cinder is very high in sulfur and cannot be used on sulfur-sensitive plants, such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera).

Now let's talk about how to use cinder. First, break up the cinder. The method is up to you; stepping on it or smashing it with something both work. It is best to break it into particles about the size of a lotus seed (this preserves as many usable-sized particles as possible). If you pound it too fine and it all turns to powder, that is wasted.

Then use a coarse sieve to screen out particles that are too large. The size of the sieve mesh (mesh count) depends on how large a cinder particle you need, so choose according to your own needs. Generally, large pots use large particles, and small pots use small particles. Loose soil uses large particles, and heavy clay soil uses small particles.

Do not throw away these large particles that were screened out; they can be broken up again and sieved once more.

These coarse particles left over from screening are no longer convenient to crush by foot. You can roll them with an iron rod to crush them, then sieve them again.

The cinder obtained after the first screening needs to be screened again with a fine sieve. This time, what you screen out are the overly fine particles. These overly fine particles do not help improve the soil, and instead make the soil sticky and heavy. The size of this sieve mesh (mesh count) depends on the minimum diameter of cinder you need.

What you end up with are cinder particles of moderate size.

These are the useless things that should be discarded. They are the ones that are too fine, and the ones that are too coarse to break up. Many of these coarse cinders are small stones, so they cannot be broken up. If you are reluctant to throw away the large particles, you can use them as a top dressing or as a bottom layer.

Then soak them in water for a day. The purpose is to remove the fire energy (water absorption) and wash away some undesirable chemical components, and at the same time, the particles that are easier to crush will also break apart under soaking, so that what remains are all sturdy, durable particles.

After soaking for a day, filter once more with a fine sieve. What remains are cinder particles that are both sturdy and clean. The particles that easily fall apart in water are all eliminated this time. The remaining particles can maintain their physical properties in the soil for a long time without changing.

Finally, put the cinder in a large flower pot. The excess water inside will flow out from the bottom of the pot, and after a day it will become relatively dry and ready to use.

Of course, this process is rather tedious and produces a lot of dust! It suits people who love to tinker. If you do not like it, please ignore it~

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