Use these tricks for succulents to promote sprouting and rooting, and they won't wither for years

If your succulent has already started to develop black rot, then don't hesitate, directly remove the part that has started to rot, and after a while side shoots will sprout from these places. Succulents are very prone to black rot disease in summer. At this time, if you don't behead them in time, the black rot will spread quickly, harming innocent parts and causing the entire succulent to die, and it may even spread to surrounding succulents. That is why succulents with black rot must be beheaded in time.

As the temperature gradually rises, various disease pathogens and pests rarely appear under low-temperature conditions, but as the temperature rises, they also begin to become active, especially for succulents grown indoors. With poor ventilation, the possibility of succulents getting sick and developing pest problems increases a lot. For example, after watering, some indoor succulents developed black rot.

On rainy days, watering with rainwater is not a problem. What is feared is that the medium is not permeable and has too much muddy soil content. If conditions allow, for outdoor growing in summer, the proportion of granules should still be larger, or even all granules. Remember one thing: after rain, you must observe the water droplets on the growth point and the plant's leaves. Otherwise, if it rains in the morning and clears up in the afternoon, one hour of sun is guaranteed to turn your plant into a pockmarked face. The growth point gets sunburned, and once it comes into contact with water, fungi invade, causing black rot. Balcony growers do not need to provide shade on rainy days.

For leaf cutting propagation of succulents, there is also particular attention to removing the leaves. The damage rate during the removal process should be minimized as much as possible, which requires us to control the water in advance for the succulent. When the plant lacks water and the leaves begin to soften, that is the best time to remove the leaves. If you are too eager for quick results and remove the leaves while they are plump, it is very easy to damage the succulent's growth point, and for many varieties such leaves will not sprout.

For the situation where leaf cuttings only produce roots but do not sprout, the roots need to be manually buried in the soil in time, so that the nutrients needed for sprouting can be better provided. After the roots are firmly established, they will absorb nutrients from the soil, and the mother leaf will also become plump. As for not having sprouted yet, it is only a matter of time; you just need to wait patiently. During leaf cutting, the leaves are placed on the soil surface. Because the leaves have phototropism, they are very easy to bend, causing the roots they produce to be unable to penetrate the soil in time. At this time, the leaves can be placed upright on their sides, which can effectively solve the situation where roots do not enter the soil and therefore no sprouts appear.

Spring is a season with a high incidence of pests and diseases, so in spring we should not only give succulents sufficient nutrients and water, but also protect them from pests and sterilize them. The method is very simple, that is, repot the succulents and replace the soil with clean soil. My cousin has been in the hobby for several years, and every spring she changes the soil for her succulents; the succulents she grows have not yet had pest or disease problems.

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