Home › Flowers & Gardening › Article

What to do when your butt gets hurt? Mom never has to worry again

Flowers & Gardening 0 views
Text and images: Curator. During the growth process of succulents, growth is faster in spring and autumn, while in summer most grow slowly, and some even stagnate in a semi-dormant state. The reason for this phenomenon is that high temperatures slow down photosynthesis...

Text

Text and images: Curator

During the growth process of succulents, growth is faster in spring and autumn, while in summer

most grow slowly, and some even stagnate in a semi-dormant state. The reason for this phenomenon is that high temperatures slow down photosynthesis while respiration intensifies, but this situation is not true dormancy yet, and it does not last long. As long as you pay attention to ventilation and cooling, provide appropriate water, and wait for the climate to turn slightly cooler, they will naturally resume growth.

So many friends think that Lithops cannot be watered during summer and do not dare to water them. This is the most basic misconception. Here I want to share some experience on getting Lithops through summer for everyone's reference.

Simply put, getting Lithops safely through summer can be discussed in terms of soil mix, water, splitting, and root rot:

1. Soil mix and watering:

Soil mix and watering can be said to be interconnected; different soil formulas require different amounts of water. There is no fixed standard for soil mix. For example: northerners eat coarse grains and are robust, while southerners eat rice and are no worse off. Different growers also use different soil mixes. Some use peat + perlite (which can promote the growth of Lithops); some growers simulate the place of origin and use pure stone for planting (their stones are extremely hard). The soil mixes just mentioned are two extremes. Most growers use akadama + peat (with akadama making up 6 to 7 parts), then cover the surface with granules. This can be regarded as the conventional soil for Lithops.

So watering cannot be generalized. Overall, in summer, watering 2 or 3 times a month is enough. Specifically, it can be roughly divided into three situations.

1. Pure stone planting:

Pure stone planting drains quickly and does not affect the root system. In summer at a high temperature of 35°C, on clear days you can water every day, but this only applies to old pots; newly transplanted pots are not suitable.

2. Pure peat planting:

In this case the watering method is different. It depends on the weather conditions. If there will be sun in the next 3-5 days, you can water. After watering, do not keep them in shade; they need to be placed in the sun so the water in the soil can evaporate. Lithops fear moisture and stuffiness, so try to provide ventilation + sunlight + dryness! (Also applies to old pots.)

3. Akadama + peat soil planting:

A ratio of (6:4) works for me personally. Fellow succulent lovers can mix according to their own conditions (if it is on the moist side, add more akadama; if it is on the dry side, add more peat soil). Slow-release fertilizer can also be added appropriately.

2. Splitting:

This is also the magical part of Lithops, just like a snake shedding its skin. During the summer splitting period, Lithops need to stop being watered. During this period, the old leaves provide nutrients to the new leaves, and the old leaves eventually dry up like wrinkled paper. At this time the root system is dormant, and watering easily causes root rot.

Personal experience: after Lithops finish splitting, they need water. (If your Lithops have finished splitting and the old leaves have turned to paper, then water them.) In addition, Lithops basically split 1-2 times a year, so control your little hands and do not keep watering them!

The above is the splitting phenomenon of 'Hongdanei' (not the same plant)

Figure 1: 'Hongdanei' splitting, new leaves growing out

Figure 2: New leaves absorbing nutrients from the old leaves

Figure 3: The old leaves' nutrients are completely consumed by the new leaves, drying up like a sheet of tin foil

Figure 4: If watered at the stages in Figures 1 and 2, it will be like Figure 4

3. Root rot:

Root rot in Lithops is relatively rare, but it is fatal. Based on what was said above, Lithops care is still fairly easy to control. In summer, small Lithops can be given more water, with no obvious dormancy (like a baby, who needs milk several times a day, and one extra feeding is no problem). For large Lithops, well-draining soil is needed; otherwise, after watering, large Lithops with developed root systems may not drain excess water in time, and are prone to waterlogging that causes root rot.

Here is a rundown of the common ways Lithops die in the hands of succulent lovers:

1. Watering with itchy hands

This is generally beginners who moved from Crassulaceae to Aizoaceae. The soil mix drains poorly. After watering, the Lithops still look wrinkled; in fact, the Lithops are in a dormant state. If water cannot drain in time when watered at this time, the Lithops' roots easily rot, and then slowly rot up to the junction between the Lithops and the roots. At this point you have to say goodbye to this Lithops.

2. Planting a small plant in a large pot

This happens when the peat proportion is high. For example, in a 7 cm black square pot, planting a 1 cm Lithops, if there is continuous rain and poor ventilation, the Lithops will easily rot. A small black square pot still retains water fairly well. If a 1 cm Lithops needs a water amount of 3, and the whole pot of soil has a water amount of 10, the remaining 7 over a few days will make the small Lithops decline. By contrast, planting 9 small Lithops in a 7 cm black square pot is no problem.

As an aside, comparing Conophytum with Lithops, both over 3 years old, Conophytum roots mainly absorb nutrients through fibrous roots, and the roots do not go very deep into the soil. Lithops roots, however, are extremely long taproots with very few fibrous roots. It can be seen from this that the watering methods are also different!

Medication:

Lithops are basically rarely bitten by insects (though being gnawed by grasshoppers is often heard of), so insecticide is basically unnecessary. Once gnawing is found, fungicide needs to be applied. Infected Lithops wounds also easily rot!

Summary:

Because the native habitat of Lithops is an extremely arid, rain-scarce desert region, Lithops are not delicate. They have already adapted to drought and strong light. Moreover, after many years of domestication in China, getting Lithops through summer is actually not difficult. Soil mix and watering are very important, and you need to mix your own according to different regions and different climates. Never water during splitting. After splitting is finished, water moderately.

The article was compiled by the Succulent Plant Boutique Pavilion. Copyright belongs to the original author. For some articles the source cannot be identified, so they are marked as from the internet. If there is infringement, please contact us immediately and we will handle it promptly.





Related Articles