How to grow azalea bonsai? A full analysis of care methods and techniques

To master the cultivation methods of azaleas, you can start from the following aspects:

1. Environmental conditions: It is best to have both indoor and outdoor environments for cultivating azaleas. The indoor environment is used in winter. In the Yangtze River basin, as long as there is a certain amount of light and ventilation indoors, generally no heating is needed. Winters in the north are extremely cold and dry, so cultivation in a medium-temperature (around 15 °C) greenhouse is preferable. Outdoor sites are used in summer and autumn, and mud ground is best; cement ground should be avoided. The site should be spacious, ventilated and shaded, with a shade shed built above, covered with reed curtains or sheltered by natural tree shade, with a light transmission rate of about 30% being suitable, and absolutely avoid afternoon sun.

2. Potting soil requirements: Azaleas like loose, highly permeable, well-drained acidic soil rich in humus, with a pH value of 5.0-6.0. If clay or alkaline soil is used, hardly one in a hundred will survive. In particular, summer azaleas and Western azaleas must have mountain soil. Mountain soil also needs to be improved. At present, 3 kinds of prepared culture soil are usually used. (1) Mix 7 parts mountain soil, 1 part dried moss debris, 2 parts dry leaf mold, and 1 part dry fertilizer. (2) Layer and compost 3 parts mountain surface soil (topsoil), 3 parts horse manure, 3 parts fallen leaves and weeds, and 1 part human feces and urine, then sieve and set aside after 1-2 years. (3) Mix 3 parts mountain soil, 3 parts leaf mold, 4 parts garden soil, and 2 parts sand, and add 50 grams of sesame paste residue and bone meal per pot.

3. Flower pot selection: For pots used to cultivate azaleas, depending on the purpose, generally two kinds are chosen: clay pots and purple clay pots. Clay pots have good air and water permeability, which is beneficial to root growth, and production units all use this kind of pot for cultivation. For formed azaleas, especially those already shaped, for indoor and outdoor display, they are generally planted in beautiful and elegant purple clay pots. Purple clay pots have a fine texture, rich colors and beautiful shapes, which can double their ornamental value. Purple clay pots are not as permeable as clay pots, so when planting, broken tile pieces (old tile pieces) should be placed around the inner walls of the pot to help drainage. The size of the selected pot depends on the age of the plant. Generally, 4-6 year old plants use 5-inch pots; 7-10 year old plants use 6-inch pots; 11-15 year old plants use 8-inch pots.

4. Improve water quality: For watering azaleas, rainwater is best, followed by river water and pond water. If tap water is used, it is best to store the water for 1-2 days to let the chlorine evaporate before use. When using it, add 0.2% ferrous sulfate, and water once every 7-10 days during the growing season. Use it regularly to ensure the soil is acidic.

5. Fertilizer and water management: Azaleas like shade and moisture, and should not be too dry. During the flowering period, even more water is needed. In winter, azaleas have entered the dormant period and do not need much water. Generally, water once every 4-5 days, preferably around noon on clear and warm days. Specifically, water appropriately according to the dryness of the potting soil. In March, azaleas root and sprout, and water demand increases accordingly. Summer azaleas grow and develop slightly later, so the amount of watering should be less than that for spring azaleas. Generally, water appropriately once every 2 days in the morning. From April to June, azaleas bloom one after another, and branches and leaves also begin to sprout, so water demand is relatively large. Generally, water once every morning or evening. In the high-temperature and dry season from July to early September, water once in the morning and once in the evening; the amount should not be too much, and at noon spray water on the leaves and ground to maintain a moist environment. From mid-September to November, the weather gradually turns cooler, which is an adaptation period for azalea growth. To prevent autumn shoots from sprouting and enhance cold resistance for overwintering, the amount of watering should be appropriately reduced. Generally, water once every other morning, keeping it moist. Azaleas relatively like fertilizer. Generally, fully decomposed cake fertilizer, fish meal, broad beans or Chinese milk vetch, etc. are used after rotting and mixed with water for irrigation. Human feces and urine should be avoided. After being moved outdoors until the flower buds show color, apply a thin fertilizer once every 10 days at a concentration of 15%, for a total of 2-3 times, to promote the old leaves turning green and new roots sprouting. After the flowers fade, in order to promote branch and leaf growth, fertilize 5-6 times from mid-May to early July. If it rains continuously, dry fertilizer can be applied. Before moving indoors, before azalea growth is about to stop, fertilize 1-2 times.

6. Outdoor shading: From before moving outdoors to before flowering, it is suitable to give more sunlight; during the flowering period, short-term shading at noon is needed, with a light transmission rate of 60%; during the plum rain period from June to early July, which is exactly the period when azaleas sprout leaves and branches, they should receive as much sunlight as possible. But in strong sunlight, shading should still be provided from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. to prevent burning new leaves. From mid-July to early September, shade from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day to prevent scorching sunlight. After September, in the autumn growth period, the shading time can be shortened. Generally, shade from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., and after October it is suitable to give more sunlight. Then carry out shaping, cutting off excessive growth branches, diseased and weak branches, deformed branches, and damaged branches.

7. Light and temperature: During the period when azaleas sprout leaves and branches, they should receive as much sunlight as possible, but in strong sunlight, shade should still be provided from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. to prevent burning new leaves. In summer, shade from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. every day; after September, the shading time can be shortened; after October, it is suitable to give more sunlight. Azaleas grow most vigorously at around 20 °C, stop growing and enter a dormant state above 30 °C. Long-term exposure below 0 °C will freeze them to death. In winter, heat preservation measures must be taken, and a temperature above 15 °C is best.

8. Shaping and pruning: Azaleas grow relatively slowly, so generally they are allowed to grow naturally, and shaping is only done after flowering, cutting off excessive growth branches, diseased and weak branches, deformed branches, and damaged branches.

9. Disease and pest control: For the azalea lace bug (also known as the camellia lace bug), spray 40% dimethoate 1500 times solution during the damage period, once every 7 days, for 3 consecutive times. The main control method for the bud leaf roller is manual capture and killing; larvae or pupae can also be sprayed with 40% dimethoate emulsifiable concentrate 2000 times solution or dichlorvos 1500 times solution.

Azalea cultivation methods and precautions:

Azaleas are neutral flowers and like a warm, semi-shaded, cool, ventilated and humid environment. They require loose, fertile, humus-rich, slightly acidic (loess) soil, with a pH value between 5.5 and 6.5, and alkaline or clayey soil should be avoided. The suitable growth temperature is 12 °C to 25 °C. In summer, shade and protect from sun; in winter, prevent freezing and keep warm, preferably moving them indoors. In particular, more delicate azaleas such as Western azaleas require even more attention in care.

1. Azalea roots are as thin as hair strands, with few thick main roots. They are afraid of both dryness and wetness, and especially afraid of heavy fertilizer. If watered too much, the roots soak in water; if too dry, branches and leaves shrink and petals fall off, posing a great threat to the plant. As for applying heavy fertilizer, it can endanger their lives.

2. After the flowers fade, the remaining flowers must be cut off to avoid seed production consuming nutrients. After new branches sprout, thin the branches appropriately, deciding what to keep according to the plant's growth vigor.

3. Azaleas are most suitable for planting in clay pots, because clay pots absorb water and breathe, which is beneficial to root growth and development and makes branches and leaves luxuriant.

4. There are particular requirements for the placement of potted azaleas. Generally, they should be placed on a southeast-facing balcony, and it should be ventilated, moving them as little as possible. Without ventilation, they are prone to black spot disease and large-scale leaf drop.

5. Azaleas also have moderate light requirements, and direct sunlight should be avoided in summer. For fertilizing, master the principle of thin fertilizer applied frequently; it is better to be dilute than concentrated. Apply an organic compound fertilizer once a month on the potting soil. Spray potassium dihydrogen phosphate once every 10 days as foliar feeding. Water in a timely manner, and edible vinegar can also be added to the water to increase acidity.

6. Thin buds and leaves in time, removing part of the flower buds and leaves that grow too many and too densely, so as to improve air circulation and concentrate nutrients into the flower buds. After the flower buds form, increase nutrition and apply an appropriate amount of more phosphorus and potassium fertilizer, otherwise the flower buds will turn into leaf buds.

7. The main reasons for azalea leaf drop and failure to bloom are: too strong direct sunlight in summer, freezing damage from severe cold, too much watering, too concentrated fertilizing, being kept indoors for too long, being placed in a place with no air circulation or in a dark and damp place, exposure to acid rain, etc. Therefore, these situations should be avoided during care.

8. Repotting and changing soil do not need to be done every year, generally once every 2 to 3 years. Try to damage the roots as little as possible. The time should be after the flowers fade or in autumn, and thiophanate should be sprayed at the same time to prevent diseases.

9. The main pests of azaleas are red spiders, aphids, etc., which can be sprayed with fenvalerate, etc., with good results. If they are not dead after three days, spray again. The main disease is black spot disease, caused by a stuffy and hot environment and lack of light. Measures can be taken to promote air circulation on the one hand, and spray Bordeaux mixture or carbendazim on the other.

10. The main propagation method for azaleas is cuttings. Around Grain in Ear, choose new branches 5 cm to 10 cm long, cut them at the branching point, strip off the lower leaves, keep 3 to 4 top leaves, insert 1/3 of the branch into the soil, spray enough water, and cover with plastic film. Strengthen management at ordinary times, and transplant after one year.

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