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Sharing Experience in Transplanting and Caring for Bonsai Stock Material

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I. Determining the Transplant Time for Bonsai Stock Material There have always been different opinions on determining the transplant time for bonsai stock material. Based on my own experience in planting stock, I believe it generally varies with time and place, and should not be treated rigidly. In our southwestern region, the transplant time...

I. Determining the Transplant Time for Bonsai Stock Material

There have always been different opinions on determining the transplant time for bonsai stock material. Based on my own experience in planting stock, I believe it generally varies with time and place, and should not be treated rigidly. In our southwestern region, the transplant time should generally be chosen during weather without rain, snow, or frost; deciduous tree species and pine and cypress species can be transplanted from early winter until before Awakening of Insects the following year. Evergreen tree species and cold-intolerant tree species can be transplanted after the warmth returns in spring, with the best time being from early March to late April. During transplanting, care should be taken to retain as many fibrous roots as possible, as this is the lifeline for the stock's survival and its ability to normally transport nutrients afterward. Therefore, understanding the ecological habits of various tree species and the climate conditions of each locality when choosing the transplant time is the key to whether a new stock can survive.

II. Work Before Planting New Stock

After all transplanted new stock and wild stock purchased from mountain farmers at the market are transported back, the first thing is to place the new stock in a water pool or large water vat and soak it for about twenty-four hours; this can reduce the probability of death caused by dehydration. During soaking, be sure not to submerge the entire stock underwater, as this will cause the stock head to completely suffocate and die. It is enough to submerge the lower two-thirds of the new stock, and the soaking time should not be too long; letting it fully absorb enough water is sufficient. Small and medium-sized stock heads can be soaked in a solution with added medical potassium permanganate (generally when the water color turns light red, this is suitable), which serves to disinfect and sterilize new stock carrying pathogens. Large stock heads can be sprayed wet over the entire stock using a hand-press spray bottle with the medicinal solution added.

III. Necessary Treatment of New Stock Branches, Trunk, and Root System

After taking out the new stock that has been soaked for a day and replenished with sufficient water from the water pool, the procedures of trimming the stock, cutting roots, and retaining branches must be carried out. This is also a crucial step determining the success or failure of the stock, and the key to whether the bonsai will be good or bad after it takes shape. First is examining the stock; you must first picture the finished form of this stock in your mind, so as to have a well-thought-out plan (beginners may ask a teacher for guidance). After drafting, you can boldly and carefully trim the stock, striving to complete it in one go, cleanly and neatly, without being sloppy. After trimming the stock, be sure to pare the cuts flat, ensure that uneven areas on the stock body and branch sawing points are treated smoothly, and that no cracks remain in the bark and xylem. After paring the wounds on the stock body flat, evenly apply white latex or wound healing agent, then cover with black plastic film and press it firmly, ensuring that moisture within the stock body does not flow out from the wounds, also preventing branch shrinkage, and further preventing pathogens from invading through them. Excess damaged roots, broken roots, and rotten roots in the root system should also be removed, and as many fibrous roots as possible should be retained. If conditions permit, apply wound healing agent and wait for it to dry, then place the roots into a pre-prepared mud slurry made by mixing crushed soil, potassium permanganate, clean water, and an appropriate amount of rooting powder evenly, and soak for a few minutes. Then choose a suitable purple clay pot or an ordinary unglazed clay pot for planting, or mound soil for temporary planting. The pot can be a bit larger, which helps the root system spread out and survive.

IV. Creating the Surrounding Environment for New Stock

For newly transplanted and potted stock, it is necessary to create the best possible adaptive environment to promote the stock head to regain vitality early, sprout, bud, grow branches, root, and enter the normal metabolic growth process. A moist yet mild space must be maintained in the surrounding environment.

1. For potted new stock, several points should be achieved:

The new stock should be sprayed moist with a spray bottle more than ten times a day, until the stock body buds and the grown branches are completely lignified, so as to achieve the goal of preventing branches and trunk from dehydrating and shrinking.

Spray or sprinkle water around all pots of transplanted new stock to fully maintain air humidity, so as to help the stock head survive as early as possible.

Transplanted new stock is best placed under tree shade where it can naturally receive some scattered sunlight; if such conditions are unavailable, a frame with shade netting and straw curtains can be set up for appropriate shading. New stock must not be placed directly under strong sunlight.

Remember that transplanted new stock must not be placed in a drafty spot where strong airflow blows directly on it, as this easily causes dehydration, branch shrinkage, and death.

2. For new stock temporarily planted in the ground, several points should be achieved:

A suitable site and space should be selected in advance, so that newly planted stock can be normally cared for and the preliminary basic styling work can proceed smoothly.

First loosen the surface soil, then mound soil above ground level for temporary planting of the new stock. Doing so can avoid death caused by water accumulation and root rot at the stock head, while also allowing normal absorption of ground warmth and air, promoting early rooting, branch growth, and survival of the new stock.

Do a good job of moisture retention and water spraying for transplanted new stock; it is even better to wrap the stock body with straw rope or moss, but after the stock body sprouts and grows branches, these attachments should be gradually removed. Through the above two major protective measures, the survival rate of such transplanted new stock can generally be guaranteed at above 90% to 95%.

V. Prevention and Control of Pests and Diseases in Transplanted New Bonsai Stock

New stock just transplanted from mountain farmers or from wild forests mostly had very harsh living environments before, and the stock bodies carry various harmful pathogens, insect erosion and decay, parasitic eggs, and so on, so we must adopt some necessary treatment measures:

1. Before planting the stock, soak for about one day in medical potassium permanganate at a certain ratio to achieve a certain disinfecting and sterilizing function.

2. After potting or ground planting, spray the stock body once a week with omethoate 1000 times solution to kill young pests.

3. Spray the pot soil once a month with phoxim 1000 times solution, until there are no ants or earthworms in the pot soil.

4. Newly transplanted old stock is mostly full of holes, with various pests and insect eggs parasitic inside. Fruit borers are the most terrifying; when spring warms and flowers bloom, they come out and gnaw the stock body, so targeted treatment must be applied promptly. A medical syringe can be used to draw up omethoate solution, seek out the openings where insects have bored out wood shavings, insert the needle inside, and inject once or twice, and the pests will find it hard to escape death. Medicated cotton can also be dipped in the solution and inserted into the hole with iron wire or a bamboo skewer, which will produce the same effect.

VI. Thinning and Shaping of New Stock Branches and Buds

For new stock that has already shown vitality, the grower must not be careless; some stock heads are falsely alive. Generally speaking, within the first two years, no branch pruning is done to the stock; let the branches grow vigorously as much as possible, to achieve the goal of initially growing them long, thick, and strong. Bonsai enthusiasts all know the principle that above each branch there is a corresponding root below. If a certain branch is cut at this moment, perhaps the root connected to the earth's energy will also die. Therefore, be sure not to rush; patience and carefulness are best.

However, for new stock already growing prosperously and vigorously, excess branches can also be appropriately thinned according to styling requirements, but at positions of useful branches, several reserve branches must be kept, waiting until the next year to keep the most robust branches and cut away the excess ones. For stock bodies with too many sprouts, part of the weak buds can also be appropriately removed, keeping some needed for future styling; several more should also be kept, so that the nutrients provided by the roots can be fully transported to useful branches and buds to promote their vigorous growth. In addition, for new stock branches, wire wrapping should generally be avoided; only appropriately pull them into position according to future styling requirements, then let them normally grow longer and thicker, meeting the best requirements for future styling.

VII. Other Conditions for the Survival of Transplanted New Stock

In addition to the above major points that must be achieved to increase the survival rate of transplanted new stock, fundamentally it cannot be separated from nature's soil. Each kind of new stock has its own preferences; some prefer acidic soil, while others like alkaline soil. Growers should not generalize, but should carefully, meticulously, and correctly distinguish and treat them. Yet no matter how things change, the principle remains the same: the soil for planting new stock must have the basic conditions of being loose, breathable, and well-draining. Water is the blood of all living plants; new stock will die if not watered, but new stock must absolutely not suffer water damage; maintaining moisture is best. The water is best from rivers, ponds, or natural rainwater; if conditions do not permit, tap water left to settle in a large bucket or pool for one or two days has the same effect. All things grow relying on the sun; mild sunlight will promote the survival and growth of new stock, but intense exposure can also harm it, so in the early stage new stock is only suited to recovering its vitality under weak light and scattered light sources. Nutrients are fundamental to promoting the robustness of new stock, but fertilizing new stock must be done with caution. Most growers generally do not apply fertilizer, but for some new stock with relatively good roots before planting and currently growing well, a small amount of thin fertilizer can also be applied, which will also promote branch growth, thickening, and earlier shaping to a certain extent.





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