Echeveria Agavoides Sharing, Part One: EvesGarden - Cloud Wood Chronicles of Agavoides

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Main text begins:

Thanks to the author [Eve] for theoriginal submissionsharing

Edited and compiled by: Encyclopedia Jun

Location: Kunming, Yunnan

Everyone Knows Juanita

 Coco (Original Motion Picture Soundtrack)

Gael Garcia Bernal 

00:00/01:15

Let's start entering the world of Echeveria agavoides with a Mexican country folk song!

"Echeveria agavoides" is the most special member of the Echeveria family. It has a wild, primal texture, but also possesses a delicate and dazzling coloration.

They resemble agave in their sharpness, yet they also retain a plump, fleshy appearance.

They huddle close to the ground at the edges of highland forests or among rocks in central Mexico, bathed in intense sunlight by day, quietly enduring the cold dusty winds by night. They constantly keep their bodies tightly closed, boldly raising their sharp leaves, arming themselves with crimson edges, sending warnings to all threats around them.

They are very unique, because compared to other members of the Echeveria family they lack a powdery layer (bloom). Their leaf surface structure is very special, as if composed of countless dotted bead grids, and also has reflective and waterproof effects; this wax-like texture also gives them a translucent, dreamy luster.

This is their characteristic, and also their signature: the jelly-like leaf tips have fiery lipstick-like edge lines. Setting aside their ecological nature to simply appreciate them, they give the impression of a playful beauty wearing heavy makeup, blowing charming kisses in all directions. Hahaha.

Hehe, describing them as heavily made-up savage girls is just perfect.. (personal opinion) Alright, the brief introduction is done.

Let's get straight into the topic of this article. This piece mainly shares some growing experience with "Echeveria agavoides."

Let me talk about some of my early experiences growing Echeveria agavoides. Going back a few years, when I was shopping in Hong Kong, China, I happened to see a bunch of Echeveria agavoides that had come from the Netherlands, displayed on the street side. At that time I thought it was strange, how could this succulent have no bloom? I touched it over and over and couldn't figure it out, even thought it was fake. I asked the vendor what it was, he went on and on and I still didn't understand (he just kept repeating yu lian yu lian yu lian, oh my god my head was about to explode, language barrier..). Later, in a fit of excitement, I bought a whole basket... (things like Romeo, Lipstick, Miranda, Sirius and such. Crossing customs I was so nervous I nearly wet myself, but in the end I brought them back safely to Shenzhen.)

At that time I didn't give them any special treatment, just thought of them as Echeveria and planted them in the ground in a flower bed. It was autumn then and growth was super smooth, cen! Cen! In just one season their size doubled. Well, having raised them successfully I was overjoyed and started pursuing "variety issues." Right, since they're easy to grow and beautiful, of course I had to collect all the varieties in this series. Catching the good rooting season in spring, I bought another big basket (things like Blood Romeo, Golden Ebony, Red Ebony, Poliana, buying buying buying everything). Full of confidence I planted them, and after one summer... damn it... where are the succulents? All of them turned to black mush and became soil... Complete despair! Wiping away my tears and enjoying this feeling of money turning into succulents turning into soil, there was nothing else to do but silently console myself: I'm just willful! Well, at this point I encountered the "growing problem," so after this painful experience I didn't give up. You all know my explosive temper, the more I battle the braver I get! Starting from the survivors, I began pondering "how to grow Echeveria agavoides"!

"How to grow Echeveria agavoides" - let's start with their ecological characteristics!

From the above introduction everyone should understand that Echeveria agavoides likes dryness! Yes, this is the first priority! Secondly, Echeveria agavoides tolerates both heat and cold, because they also have the characteristic of long dormancy (highland plants usually do, it's just that succulents can go especially long). So what do they hate? It's moisture, the opposite of the dryness they love. That is to say, dry heat and dry cold are not a problem for them; the problem is wet cold and wet heat (my first painful experience was caused by Shenzhen's hot and humid summer environment, plus my random soil mixing and leaving them unattended). Because their place of origin is dry year-round and they grow in rocks, their characteristic is that they like dry heads, dry feet, dry everything, with soil just barely moist, temperature just barely cool, and sunlight extremely intense, and they will grow brilliantly. (The first time I excitedly kept Echeveria agavoides alive was because it happened to be Shenzhen's autumn and winter, dry and cool, and even with randomly mixed soil they grew like crazy.)

"The Water Issue"

Of course the dryness mentioned is relative dryness rather than blind drought, which would directly cause them to go dormant and over time lead to withering and death (when I first came to Yunnan, because the air was dry and I wasn't in the habit of watering, they automatically went completely dormant at under 26°C.) Usually water management in growing Echeveria agavoides is quite a skill. Their antibacterial ability is relatively poor, because their genes simply don't have resistance to bacteria in humid environments. Of course, acquired cultivation or medicinal treatment can strengthen it somewhat, but it's still best to give them the environment they like.

The most important thing about water is "relativity." What is relativity? Simply put, it means water should be adjusted relative to soil and temperature. Spring and autumn are cooler, so increase water to aid growth; when summer and winter temperatures reach the red line, reduce humidity to let them enter semi-dormancy or complete dormancy.

When encountering very harsh or unsuitable climate for Echeveria agavoides growth, you can directly pull them from the soil and hang them like cured meat. For example, that's what I did in Shenzhen back then.

Why do this? Won't they die this way? These two questions always come up repeatedly. Every time I reply the same way.

The answer is:

1. Pulling from soil is to remove them from the soil and reduce the chance of bacterial infection. Because if air humidity exceeds the limit, the soil is wet even without watering, and a humid environment naturally breeds bacteria. Even if you continuously use disinfectant powder, carbendazim or such, you can't stop bacteria from breeding in soil that's been wet for a long time. So if they're in the air, you can completely cut off this infection source, achieving one hundred percent dryness. Even if it's hot, as long as you can still live, they won't die.

2. Pulling them out forces dormancy. If your succulent is healthy enough and stored sufficient water and nutrients during the growing season, surviving in the air for at least 2-3 months is completely fine. The prerequisite is indirect light and a sufficiently good ventilation environment. Best not to put them in an air-conditioned room, and don't spray water, otherwise you're asking for death... This method is limited to high-temperature high-humidity regions, an extreme operation for survival when there's no other choice! Absolutely don't do this casually!

"The Soil Issue"

After every experience-sharing post there are always countless succulent friends asking about soil mixing in comments or private messages. This time I'll emphasize again: there is no absolute soil mix!!! No absolute!!! No absolute!!! Really no absolute!!! Only "relative."

I know this might be hard for beginner succulent friends to understand, what "relative" means. You always wish there were a ready-made recipe given to you and everything would be fine. Don't even think about it, because you can copy someone else's soil mix, but you can't copy their balcony and climate, or their personal growing preferences. It's that simple!

Why should soil be mixed? It's this simple: mix according to environment! Mix according to variety! Mix according to personal preference! Your! Self! Mix!!!

(Alright I need to restrain myself, otherwise one bathtub won't be enough for all my complaints)

Back to the point of this article. Echeveria agavoides actually isn't very picky about soil. As long as it's not strongly acidic, strongly alkaline or non-breathable soil, they can adapt! So for such an easy variety, what are you mixing soil for? To solve environmental and climate problems. For example, the Guangzhou-Shenzhen area is relatively humid and prone to bacteria. So shouldn't your soil mix relatively strengthen drainage and soil antibacterial properties? Then shouldn't you add more hard particles for drainage, more powdery particles for antibacterial action, and less humus soil that easily breeds bacteria, to solve the local ecological problem?

So let's have 40% hard particles (volcanic rock, sea pumice and other highly porous, high-drainage soil types) for drainage; then 40% powdery particles (add more high-sulfur cinder and high-phosphorus charcoal slag, such as rice husk charcoal, soil types that resist bacteria and pests); then add 18% base soil (such as peat, coconut coir, etc.) to maintain soil balance and moisture retention; finally add 2% slow-release fertilizer that won't breed bacteria. Wouldn't this be very suitable for this hot, humid, year-round rainy climate? Think about it yourself, just a suggestion for reference only!

"The Watering Issue Connected to Soil Mixing" So with this example, for such a high-drainage soil in the Guangzhou-Shenzhen area, during the dry, low-temperature autumn and winter, shouldn't you water frequently to let them grow quickly, and during the hot, humid spring and summer, shouldn't you slowly reduce water or even cut it off to reduce the death rate of Echeveria agavoides? Again, think about it yourself. I don't want to brainwash anyone...

(The tone of this article is a bit intense and full of complaints...)

If you think it makes sense, then carefully study the characteristics of all soil materials, and then based on your balcony, rooftop or greenhouse humidity and temperature, work out the rest by analogy to mix soil specifically. Based on your soil mix, control water specifically according to your local climate changes... You know?

Then for the relatively dry north where bacteria don't easily breed, shouldn't you increase the proportion of base soil for moisture retention and reduce the proportion of particles?

Alright, I won't say more about soil mixing for all regions across the country. Use your brain, your hands and a pen to calculate... calculate until you can specifically solve all problems that harm your succulents, calculate until you've experimented 360 degrees with no blind spots, and you'll succeed. Stepping on corpses isn't scary; what's scary is giving up after stepping on them, abandoning and quitting, then you've failed!

Come on. Let's bring up the awkward topic. Next up is the problem that all Echeveria agavoides lovers fear most and least want to face! Disease. (Seeing the leaves in this picture, aren't they familiar... the most beautiful moment of Echeveria agavoides departing this world.)

For Echeveria agavoides with compact rosettes and dense leaf counts, pests can only harm the flower stalks and hardly threaten the rosette (of course, except for those damned caterpillars that eat everything...) But bacterial infection is fatal for Echeveria agavoides. It can be said that once infected, there's almost no cure.

Let's dissect the most beautifully departed Echeveria agavoides and take a look.. Its stem is almost completely rotted, but most of the leaves are still intact. So the most deadly thing about Echeveria agavoides is that you can't judge infection from the appearance in advance.

Usually infection comes mostly from the roots and the base of the stem, especially prevalent in stuffy, hot weather. Sometimes high temperatures with water on the leaves can also cause tissue infection, but rosette infection is manageable; promptly cutting it off and applying some disinfectant powder can save the lower stem for regrowth. The picture above shows a case where stem infection was cut away and split open from the middle to save it. But if the roots and stem are infected, there's basically no saving it. For difficult-to-treat cases, the best thing is to prevent disease from occurring!

The problem lies in excessive moisture and stuffiness causing bacterial growth. So the way to solve the problem at its root is to start with the environment. As mentioned in some previous sharing articles, strengthening ventilation and improving soil are the most direct approaches. Of course, using antibacterial medication appropriately in the appropriate season is also necessary.

Next is to deeply and thoroughly understand the red-line data for Echeveria agavoides. What can't be touched, absolutely don't risk it; what laziness can't be skipped, absolutely don't skip it! The best approach is to use environmental monitoring instruments to monitor at all times: ambient temperature, humidity, UV, soil pH... Maintain 24-hour ventilation, strengthen ventilation when air circulation is weak, give special treatment to special varieties. Environment is the most important factor in growing succulents, and your environment is created by you. Complaining about fate solves nothing. If you grow them, you need to give them a comfortable environment. If they didn't need you to do anything for them, why would they need you to grow them!

Also, if in the end they still die, I hope you keep the right mindset. No matter how skilled a person is, they can't guarantee that not a single succulent they grow will die. No matter how good the environment, it can't guarantee plants will live forever. Even gods can't stop the law of life and death, do you think humans can? When one dies, summarize the reasons and keep trying. What you enjoy is every experience of each plant accompanying you, not it being dominated and controlled by you! (These are all the words of experience from someone who has stepped on countless corpses along the way...)

"The Variety Issue"

Wild original Echeveria agavoides actually don't have many varieties, you can count them on 10 fingers. From their discovery to now it's been over a hundred years of history, during which many breeders continuously improved and hybridized them, creating many hybrid and select varieties that are now stable.

Friends who have grown succulents for a long time surely know that one succulent can have multiple names due to condition issues or individual differences. Echeveria agavoides is the most obvious example. For instance, "E.agavoides romeo" when in good condition is called Blood Romeo, Red Ebony (the so-called Romeo x Ebony); individuals with pointed leaves are also called Star Romeo or such. "E.agavoides ebony" due to individual differences or condition issues is divided into Black Ebony Juice, Golden Ebony, Orange Ebony, White Ebony, Wild Ebony and such.

All these names and classifications make people dizzy and doubt life. Actually, simply put, it comes down to two points: the first is condition issues, the second is individual differences. Echeveria agavoides in good condition shows more variety characteristics, while without condition it's easy to confuse varieties. So many growers when buying succulents will definitely choose semi-conditioned and fully-conditioned ones to confirm the variety. Personally, I think there's no need to waste effort doubting the seller or doubting yourself. Actually even Echeveria agavoides without condition, each variety's characteristics are quite obvious, as long as you observe carefully! Research more and try more yourself. With rich knowledge you won't fear being fooled; with more experience you won't fear falling into pits.

"Individual Differences Within the Same Variety"

Friends who have sown seeds surely know that no matter what variety, sowing will produce obvious individual differences. For example, the "Ebony" in the picture, from the same batch with the same parents, will produce long leaves, short leaves, round leaves, with rosette shapes that are outward-curling or inward-curling. Personally, I think as long as you like it, that's fine. After all, differences also mean each one is a rare find. No need to agonize over purity issues (some Echeveria agavoides can produce pure offspring even when crossbred with each other, just like Dudleya).

So this also shows that there's no such thing as a rule that only a certain appearance is purebred! Ebony tall, short, fat or thin are all Ebony, as long as their characteristic traits aren't lost (siblings born from the same parents also show differences in height and build, so would you say your siblings aren't pure based on your own standards? It's that simple!) Using this as an example, I won't explain the other varieties one by one.

"The Condition Issue"

Speaking of this, would you first think that condition is related to soil mix? Seeing whose Echeveria agavoides is grown well, you first ask them about their soil mix? Based on my personal experience, there's a slight relationship but not an absolute one! The Dutch grow mass-produced Echeveria agavoides in pure peat and they still develop condition! Koreans grow them in cactus sandy soil and they still develop condition! So what do you think?

Let me put it this way: the relationship between condition and soil is really just about roots! Soil suitable for the environment plus good humidity lets Echeveria agavoides rapidly grow a well-developed root system. Unlike Dudleya, roots are the foundation for developing condition! Not to mention bursting with roots filling the pot, at least the roots need to be lively. A dry, malnourished Echeveria agavoides can never produce beautiful, moving colors. So for developing condition, roots come first!

Second is sunlight. Almost all sedums need sunlight to develop color! And they basically all show red or orange. Succulent coloring and sunlight are basically a physical reaction, and Echeveria agavoides is no exception. So how much sunlight is enough? This depends on your succulent's situation, its root development and growth activity level. Normally 4 hours or more of direct sunlight is the basic requirement. In cities with severe smog, it's best to reach 6 hours. If the succulent is healthy enough, you can go up to 8 hours or more, which is ideal! (If sunlight is insufficient don't ask me what to do, go look up "Memoir: Balcony Growers' Resistance History" which has various methods to strengthen lighting.) The above only applies to the growing season; in dormant season in some regions, just maintain the minimum sunlight standard to let them go dormant and survive! Consider condition issues again when the growing season comes!

"Condition and Temperature"

With good roots and plenty of sunlight, Echeveria agavoides can basically develop the characteristic colors a normal variety should have. But if you want extreme condition, you have to rely on temperature, that is, the so-called extreme temperature difference, which also limits the region. For example, northern winters are especially good for developing condition, and some southern cities can too. But when Echeveria agavoides reaches extreme condition, the risk is also great. At this time they are highly sensitive. It's recommended to water sparingly to let them enter semi-dormancy. Also, don't think that the more beautiful the color, the healthier it is. That's where you'd be wrong. Actually it's already approaching its life limit. The most obvious is during extremely cold weather, when Echeveria agavoides can develop a highly translucent jelly color, red to the depths of your heart, making you obsessed. At this time just quietly admire it... Absolutely don't move it around just because it's beautiful, or over-pamper it with heavy fertilizer and water, it will die on you... Because at extreme condition, the red-line values for Echeveria agavoides also increase... After passing the peak condition season, if the roots have already become locked up, it's best to repot once in spring to restore vitality. How to judge? When the growing season arrives and the center of the rosette hasn't returned to green, but stays in full condition. Don't think about it, just do it, otherwise stopping metabolism equals death.

Actually, apart from color, personally I think health and continuous growth are more important. Because growing plants means you can't lack the passion for appreciating green. All plants departing from green proves they're not far from departing this world, and succulents are no exception. For plants, green represents vitality, represents the beginning of a transformation. So in terms of condition, there's no need to be too demanding. In seasons when colors aren't vibrant enough, appreciate their rosette shapes and growth more; in dormant seasons, appreciate their slumber more, recall the years this plant has accompanied you. And when colors come, just accept well the sacrifice they make for your eyes and let them bloom...

Oh right, I forgot to mention the red-line data I kept referring to. These are some data from monitoring instruments I collected while migrating around. I hope they're helpful to everyone. The data is divided into four major categories: temperature, humidity, soil pH, and sunlight. The red-line data for Echeveria agavoides means that when these four relative values exceed limits, survival risks will occur.

And the green-light data for the Echeveria agavoides line (suitable growth values):

Temperature: 5-30°C

Humidity: 50-85%

Soil pH: neutral

Sunlight: moderate or strong

If a certain value exceeds limits, then relatively carry out artificial intervention and lower another value! For example, if temperature exceeds 30°C, then lower humidity to at least below 50%. If temperature continues to rise, then continue lowering humidity until dormancy. Then when temperature drops below 5°C, humidity should also be relatively lowered.

And at temperatures suitable for growth, humidity should be relatively adjusted according to sunlight intensity! Too high humidity with insufficient sunlight directly causes etiolation; too strong sunlight with too low humidity directly scorches! And for soil pH, whether dormant or in growing season, too acidic or too alkaline directly causes root rot! If pH is a problem, just change the soil! When temperature isn't suitable for establishing, just "hang cured meat"... The above data is for reference only, because life always has miracles. I've also seen many individuals that broke through red-line values and didn't die, still growing. That's where the saying "defying heaven" comes from. Secondly, a factor outside the data table is wind! Make it as strong as possible. Echeveria agavoides is this tough and this heavy, even a typhoon can't blow them away, don't worry.

Come on, next let me share my Echeveria agavoides growing results! Ebony just potted last August.

This April, yes it's the same one, no need to doubt. Ebony growing in different environments, different soil, different conditions produces completely different appearances.

Here's another different variety, last September.

This April, completely different from the first Ebony! Yes, again confirming that besides individual differences, different pot sizes and sunlight exposure levels also affect morphology.

Last August, the one that was too big so I put it on bricks to trim its roots

This April.

The above several are all Echeveria agavoides from the same batch grown in the ground in yellow earth. Initially because of insufficient sunlight (when growing in the ground, seasonal changes shift the sunlight position and you can't move the succulents, so seasonal colorlessness in ground growing is a normal phenomenon!) the color characteristics weren't very obvious. But after digging them out of the ground and changing the soil structure, and as sunlight gradually increased after potting, the color characteristics began to appear.

This winter during the below-zero frost, I cut off water for over a month to let them go dormant. But because the growing time wasn't long, I didn't repot. After I roamed around Tibet for a month and came back, when spring temperatures rose to around 10°C, I began increasing humidity to let them slowly wake up and recover.

Then are you going to ask me again, with pure outdoor growing how do I control humidity when it rains? Ha, very simple. When choosing pots I considered this point. Not too big, not too small, just right. After planting, the rosette directly covers the pot, and I made a heat-insulating and water-draining layer around the pot cavity, so rain either can't get into the pot or directly leaks away through the heat-dissipating water-draining layer (the making of the heat-dissipating water-draining layer is explained in the Autumn Harvest article, "Eve's Garden: Migrating with Succulents - Autumn Harvest Sharing Part Two!"). And my only way to increase humidity is bottom-watering...

Here's another one. Mafida, last August dug out from the ground and potted, still covered in yellow mud all over...

This April. Don't ask me why it's so big. The growth characteristic of Echeveria agavoides is that with a good environment it will grow infinitely! Especially in ground growing!

Alright, "growing" is covered. As per usual, let's talk about "new life." Echeveria agavoides is a very suitable species for sowing. Their stamens and pistils are well-developed, pollination rate is relatively high, and germination rate is also very considerable. The only taboo is that you must choose the right timing based on local climate. Echeveria agavoides babies like temperatures of 10-25°C and humidity around 65-85% for growth. So generally it's best to sow in late early-winter or early autumn, so that before entering summer and winter they can grow and develop into good form and survive harsh climates. By the way, Echeveria agavoides sown locally will adapt better to the local climate the following year. For example, my first batch sown in Shenzhen had no problems even with direct outdoor growing in summer. Why? Because they adapted from the womb, so to speak. Actually, it's that the parents, after experiencing the local climate, pass climate information to the next generation, so they can evolve and survive! Then under local natural climate selection, the weak are naturally eliminated and the strong survive, continuing to reproduce and pass on, thus becoming optimized. Personally I prefer those with strong vitality, so back then my selection was choosing the strong rather than using aesthetic standards for artificial elimination.

The Echeveria agavoides species is actually very simple. They just like relatively dry, cool, windy environments. Their growth vigor is very strong, and they're very tough. Not picky about soil, not picky about pots, not afraid of dust or pests.

Give them a small pot and they can grow small and exquisite, crystal clear and beautiful. (When growing in small pots, remember to frequently trim roots!)

Give them a big pot and they can grow wild and imposing. (Pay attention to pot cavity structure!)

Cut water in high heat, cut water in low cold, and if that doesn't work, hanging cured meat for a month or two is also completely fine. When the season comes and the temperature is right, give them enough nutrients and water and they'll grow like crazy.

Echeveria agavoides has its own special physiological structure and ecological differences. Master the essentials and survival generally isn't a problem. Study carefully yourself, build with your own hands the ecological space that belongs to them, and you can harvest their most beautiful ecology!

Alright, the first Echeveria agavoides article is about to end here. Please don't privately message me to repeat questions already shared in the article. Everything I know I've written out. Anything more is just questions still being researched without conclusions.

Finally, an Easter egg: the Dutch holiday colored paint incident that's much debated among Echeveria agavoides lovers. The Dutch, to celebrate the holiday, sprayed colored paint on Echeveria agavoides. It looks very cruel, like murdering the succulents. At the time I also brought two back to study. I was just curious about why they did this, and also wanted to see if it really causes Echeveria agavoides to die. After half a year of verification the answer is: no. Not only did they not die, they quickly shed a layer of leaves and lived just fine. I also instantly calculated the speed at which Echeveria agavoides grows new leaves. So it's not without reason that the Dutch only spray Echeveria agavoides for their annual holiday. This also shows that Echeveria agavoides has very tenacious vitality!

Alright, this article ends here. I also need to take a smoke break and rest. My personal stories won't be mentioned in the article anymore. Lest every article be so long that everyone vomits blood... Hahahahaha! And also to avoid some off-topic inappropriate comments.

Summer is almost here. Everyone don't be nervous, keep a calm mindset. Summer isn't scary, there's summer everywhere; the place of origin Mexico is no exception! High temperature and high humidity aren't scary either. If you're prepared to solve the problem, then there's no problem! This year Kunming's spring was hotter than summer, and rainier too. Last month there were even two hailstorms. It still comes down to artificial intervention to solve things. Target the variety, target the problem, eliminate the hidden dangers, and there's no danger!

Complaining about fate solves nothing, it only makes you collect more corpses every year and spend more money the next! While growing succulents well, don't forget to propagate. Diligently be a competent flower farmer and enjoy it all. Don't always make excuses for yourself like no time! No conditions! Nothing is impossible, it only depends on whether you're willing to use your diligent hands and your meticulous mind! Long live the working people, Happy May First!

Also, regarding the regional issue of growing succulents, let me specially clarify once more.

If Yunnan could easily grow all succulents, then why isn't Yunnan the homeland of all succulents? One region, one climate, producing one species is the balance of nature's ecosystem, not something produced by human imagination, ok? Since Yunnan isn't the homeland of all succulents, then it can be clearly stated that the climate here also has fatal problems for most succulents. That's why for millions of years succulents from all over the world couldn't grow here! And growing succulents here means solving these fatal problems! Letting them survive in a non-native ecological environment! And by analogy, the city you're in is the same! I hope everyone understands this point!

Think about it carefully yourself! Mm, think!

Not hearsay, not gut feeling, not having others teach you what to do! It's using your own brain and hands to solve problems, growing your own succulents and enjoying the achievement of them growing again and again, transforming again and again.

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