How to grow orchids? You can grow orchids well on a balcony too
As people increasingly recognize the ornamental and economic value of orchids, orchids are entering countless households. Growing orchids requires space. In villages and small towns, some orchid enthusiasts with the means can build orchid gardens and orchid sheds in the wild or in their yards to grow orchids, but nowadays most orchid enthusiasts are urban residents living in apartment buildings, with no conditions to build orchid gardens or orchid sheds, and can only use balconies to grow orchids. This is a helpless choice, and also the only choice. But as long as we make efforts in balcony renovation, variety introduction, pot selection, growing medium selection, light control, heating and humidifying, ventilation, and plant protection, and try our best to create a microclimate and microenvironment suitable for orchid growth, orchids can still grow with lush foliage and drifting fragrance on a balcony.
1. Location. If you have two balconies, choose the larger one as much as possible, to hold more orchids, facilitate operation, and also help air circulation, which is unfavorable for disease occurrence; in addition, it can also hold surplus pots and medium. You should also choose a balcony that can receive more sunlight, with higher heat accumulation and sufficient light intensity, which is favorable for orchid growth. Moreover, excessive light can be regulated by various measures, while if the light is too weak, it is very difficult to make up for the deficiency, and even if made up for, the cost is high. If conditions permit, you should install plastic-steel or aluminum alloy windows with white glass on the outer side of the balcony to block strong winds and rainstorms and regulate the internal temperature and humidity. If conditions do not permit this, you can install a security cage, then install PC corrugated sheets, strong boards, bamboo fences, shade nets, etc. on it to block wind and sun and retain heat and moisture.
The balcony must also prevent dripping water from upper floors from contaminating the leaf surfaces, or accumulated water from rotting small seedlings, as well as smoke and fumes from kitchens on lower floors. When growing orchids on a balcony, it is best not to place them directly on the ground, as this is inconvenient for management. Instead, use stainless steel, aluminum alloy, galvanized angle steel and other profiles to make orchid racks about 80CM high to place the orchid pots, which is favorable for observing orchids and for cultivation, management, and plant protection operations; if the space is narrow, multi-layer orchid racks can be made, with the height of the top layer preferably at shoulder height with the pot rims. The balcony floor is best waterproofed, so that accumulated water will not seep down to lower floors or neighboring homes and cause disputes. If possible, convert the inner side of the balcony into a plastic-steel or aluminum alloy glass wall, so that the living room, dining room, study, etc. and the orchid room are seamlessly integrated, giving people a feeling of delight and a return to nature. The outside of the balcony should be fitted with a security cage and steel mesh to prevent theft and rats.
2. Varieties. The balcony area is not very large, so introduced varieties should preferably be small and medium-sized plants, so that more varieties and quantities can be accommodated. Large plants take up space and are not suitable for growing too many, though of course, fine specimens, top-grade specimens, absolute top-grade specimens, or promising specimens are another matter.
Growing orchids on a balcony advocates fewer but finer plants. If you have passed the cultivation hurdle, you can choose medium- and high-grade orchids, not pursuing a rich collection of varieties and a large number of plants, but winning by quality, growing one pot that is one pot. The so-called fine refers to traditional famous varieties or new famous varieties that have won awards multiple times at orchid exhibitions of various levels and types, have fame and value, have both value and market, are easy to identify, are loved by many people, and are easy to sell; new species among wild-collected orchids that have characteristics, grade, and prospects also belong to this category. In addition, if it is for ornamental cultivation, then Cymbidium goeringii, summer cymbidium, autumn cymbidium, cold orchid, etc. can all be grown a little, with flowers blooming in all four seasons and fragrance continuing without end.
3. Pots. Balcony space is limited, so you should choose small and medium pots with a diameter of Φ10-20CM as much as possible, as long as they can hold the orchid plant and leave some room for development. Pot specifications should be as uniform as possible, to facilitate making orchid racks and adjusting placement, and the dry and wet degree of the medium will also be basically consistent, which is favorable for management. Traditional thinking holds that plastic pots are not ventilated, breathable, or water-permeable, but this is not actually so. Because plastic has good processing performance, the design of bottom holes and the openings on pot walls have been greatly improved, and ventilation and breathability are no less than, or even better than, porcelain pots, purple clay pots, ceramic pots, etc., so they can be chosen with confidence. Black plastic pots help absorb heat and raise temperature, accelerate the decomposition and combination of organic matter in the medium, promote rooting and sprouting, and can be the first choice; plastic pots are also light, especially suitable for multi-layer orchid racks on balconies; in addition, plastic pots are not easily damaged and are low in price, making them a better choice for growing orchids on balconies. Of course, their aesthetics ultimately cannot match purple clay pots, porcelain pots, and ceramic pots. If you want to emphasize ornamental value, you can choose other pots, but medium to small size and light weight are preferable.
4. Medium. The medium for growing orchids on a balcony has no special requirements compared with general orchid sheds, but since the balcony is part of the living space, the medium should preferably contain no radioactive substances, no peculiar odor, no toxic or harmful substances, and not easily breed pests and diseases, and should not harm people's health, environmental sanitation, or safety. Balcony space is relatively small, water evaporates more slowly, and if the medium is too fine and too greasy, there is a risk of water accumulation and root rot, so granular materials are advocated: such as pine bark, immortal soil, volcanic stone, weathered stone, crushed brick particles, small stones, pond foundation stone, peat soil, granular tree bark, etc. The overall requirement is water permeability, breathability, and a certain fertility. You can mix snake fern shavings, tree bark, leaves, sphagnum moss, and other water-absorbing and moisture-retaining materials into the granular material to regulate the water in the pot. Mixing in more gives stronger water retention; mixing in less makes water evaporate and drain faster. In addition, the above organic matter, during decomposition, can also provide a certain fertility to the orchids.
Repotting can be combined with division, once every one or two years is enough; as long as the granular material removed does not disintegrate, it can still be used after being washed clean and sun-dried for several days; old medium may carry diseases, so for growing fine varieties of orchids it is better to use new medium, and the old medium can be used for growing coarse varieties of orchids or other flowers.
5. Light. "All things grow relying on the sun." Light, temperature, and humidity are listed together as the three major factors for orchid growth, and play an important role in orchid growth and development. Most Chinese orchid varieties prefer shade and can carry out photosynthesis normally under light conditions of 1/10 of full light intensity; too strong light instead weakens their photosynthesis, so orchids should be moderately shaded. Different orchid varieties require different light intensities. Cymbidium ensifolium needs 60-70% shade, Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi need 70-80% shade, Cymbidium sinense needs about 85% shade, while Huoshao orchid and others can grow without shade.
Light control on a balcony can be achieved by pulling plastic shade nets, gauze curtains, etc. In summer and autumn, you can pull thicker ones; in winter and spring, pull thinner ones. If sunlight only comes in the morning, no shade needs to be pulled in winter and early spring. If the leaf color is on the pale side and the leaf surface is rough, with many flowers and few leaf buds, then the light is slightly too strong; if the leaf color is on the dark side, the leaves are weak and easy to break, with many leaf buds and few flower buds, then the light is slightly too weak.
Vine plants find it difficult to grow on a balcony enough to shade orchids; in addition, the degree of shade, the position of shade, and the shading time cannot all be manually controlled, and there is also the possibility of breeding diseases, so growing vines to regulate light is not advocated. For balcony shading, pulling plastic shade nets or gauze curtains is better. If the balcony is adjacent to the living room, study, or bedroom, it is better to pull gauze curtains to increase ornamental value. If tall buildings stand all around and there is not enough light, you can use plant lights on cloudy days or in the evening for appropriate compensation; longer-wavelength red and orange light promotes plant cell growth, while blue and purple light has a dwarfing effect.
6. Water. Water is an important condition for the normal growth and reproduction of orchid plants. Most balcony orchid growers live in towns and cities and have no access to river water, well water, lake water, pond water, or spring water, and collecting snow water or rainwater is also unrealistic, so the greatest possibility is still to use tap water. Tap water can first be placed in a container to let chlorine and other disinfectants volatilize. For first use, test the PH value with test paper to see whether it is between 5-6; if it is slightly alkaline, it can be treated with hydrochloric acid or citric acid; if it is too acidic, caustic soda or caustic potash can be added. Tap water in towns and cities can be drunk normally by people and does no great harm to orchids. The author and many orchid enthusiasts I know have for many years watered orchids directly with tap water from the faucet, and there have never been adverse consequences caused by water quality.
According to traditional experience, growing orchids is "three parts wet, seven parts dry," "dry orchids, wet chrysanthemums," advocating leaning dry, but the newer concept of orchid water management is "heavy-water orchid growing," that is, under the premise of using small pots and loose medium, increasing the frequency and amount of watering, which is beneficial for gas exchange in the pot, decomposition of organic matter in the pot, and water absorption by the orchid plant. Especially in spring and summer, giving orchids enough water can make them sprout early and grow rapidly, with good results.
For balcony orchid growing, pots are generally small, medium is little, and most use granular material, so watering should be a bit more. During the germination and growth period, the medium can be kept moist at any time; during the dormant period, water can be slightly withheld; during the flowering period, leaning dry is also advisable to ensure flower appearance.
When watering orchids on a balcony, open the windows to maximize air circulation, and wait for accumulated water in leaf buds and leaf axils to evaporate before closing the windows; otherwise it is easy to cause waterlogging and bud rot. Orchids generally open their stomata during the day, absorb carbon dioxide, capture light energy through chlorophyll, and synthesize carbon dioxide and water into carbohydrates. At this time they not only need water, but moist air can also reduce water loss, so it is advisable to water in the morning when the temperature rises. Orchids also have different water requirements depending on variety; for example, Cymbidium goeringii and Cymbidium faberi prefer leaning dry, while four-season orchid prefers leaning wet.
7. Humidity. Orchids generally grow in tropical and subtropical humid environments, with relative air humidity reaching 60-90%. For this reason, balcony orchid growing should try to create a matching small environment. Humidifying methods include splashing water on the ground, laying bricks on the ground (often sprinkling water on them), hanging cotton fabric on the wall (with the lower end of the cotton fabric placed in a water basin to absorb water), placing a water trough under the flower rack, setting pots in water basins, using a humidifier, etc. For high-rise balconies, splashing water on the ground and laying bricks to absorb water are not advocated, because building leakage is a "construction cancer" and difficult to solve thoroughly; if water accumulates over the long term, it will seep to lower floors or neighboring homes and cause disputes.
If growing fine varieties of orchids, a humidifier can be used, with power matching the balcony space; it does not need to be too large. The added humidity should be to the degree that orchid leaves do not carry obvious moisture or wet marks; if economic conditions permit, an ultrasonic humidifier with constant humidity should be chosen, which will not produce extra heat and is also convenient for operation and management.
Orchids also differ in humidity requirements at different times, specifically: high during the growth period, low during the dormant period; high during the day, low at night; high on clear days, low on cloudy days; high when hot, low when cool. There is no need to always maintain a certain humidity regardless of growing season, cloudy or clear weather, and day or night.
8. Temperature. The most suitable temperature is also the temperature at which orchid plants grow fastest. Chinese orchids can carry out normal photosynthesis at 5-36°C, with the most suitable temperature between 18-28°C. At 0-4°C photosynthesis will be inhibited, above 36°C photosynthesis weakens or even stops, and below 0°C orchid leaves and flower buds are prone to cold damage. For this reason, a microclimate with a temperature kept between 18-28°C should be created as much as possible.
If there is no special need, in orchid cultivation the temperature aspect should mainly be semi-natural, that is, follow the phenology and as much as possible do not use artificial means to regulate temperature. When it should be cold, let it be cold; when it should be hot, let it be hot. Of course, if the temperature exceeds the better growth range for orchids, then it can also be regulated. During the day, windows can be closed to raise temperature; in winter, measures such as closing windows and reducing shading materials can also be used to raise temperature; if growing fine varieties of orchids, air conditioners, heaters, bathroom heaters, etc. can be used to raise room temperature; if the temperature is too high, open windows and use exhaust fans, electric fans, air conditioners, etc. to cool down, striving to maintain the most suitable temperature for orchid growth.
If the local area rarely has severe cold or great heat, then artificial high temperature and high humidity are not advocated; if not handled well, it may lead to "greenhouse disease," viral disease, and other root rot and seedling collapse.
Low temperature is beneficial to the hydrolysis and transformation of substances, so orchid growth is slow during the day and fast at night. Balcony orchid growing should open windows at night to lower temperature; low temperature also promotes flowering, especially for Cymbidium goeringii types. For this reason, appropriately lowering the balcony temperature during the flower-breeding period is beneficial to the flower appearance and flower color of orchids.
9. Fertilization. If the orchid cultivation medium is humus soil, the pot is large, and the soil is changed once a year, then fertilization may not be needed. But balcony orchid growing has small pots and many orchids, and most use granular material as the main medium, so fertilization is very necessary. The balcony is adjacent to the living room, dining room, study, bedroom, etc., so farmyard manure is not advocated, because it is mostly decomposed organic matter and inevitably has a peculiar odor, attracts insects and ants, and some also carries diseases. For balcony orchid growing, inorganic fertilizers such as Huabao, Zhiquan, Zhifa, and Huakang should be chosen, used strictly according to the concentration, dosage, and frequency indicated in their instructions, to meet the growth needs of different growth periods; urea, monopotassium phosphate, compound fertilizer, etc. also have definite fertilizer effects, but the dosage should be about 2/3 lower than the dosage for general crops, and fertilizer should be applied thinly and frequently, to avoid irreversible fertilizer damage.
The ratio of the three major fertilizer elements nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium is roughly 3:1:1 at the seedling stage, 1:1:1 during the growth period, and 1:3:1 during the flower-breeding period. In addition, other elements should also be applied, so orchid-specific fertilizers rich in various elements are also among the options. Fertilization time can begin from late spring and end in late autumn, generally applied once every 10-15 days. Avoid application on windy and rainy days; fertilization in high-temperature weather may also cause fertilizer damage and should also be avoided.
10. Ventilation. Balcony orchid growing easily leads to poor ventilation, breeding brown spot disease and southern blight, producing scale insects, etc. Orchid plants are also relatively weak and may even break and fall from the leaf base. For this reason, at night, except on days of fierce wind and severe cold, windows should be opened to let fresh air provide the oxygen needed for orchid respiration and the carbon dioxide needed for photosynthesis, promote their metabolism, and increase the absorption and transport of water and nutrients and the manufacture and accumulation of nutrients.
In addition, nighttime ventilation on a balcony can also lower temperature. The day-night temperature difference of high by day and low at night can promote orchid plant growth. Balcony ventilation also requires attention: if the floors above or below, or the neighbors on the left or right, are kitchens, windows should be tightly closed during cooking times to prevent orchids from being fumigated by cooking fumes.
Balcony orchid growing should not be too dense. If the space is really narrow, stepped orchid racks can be used to effectively spread out the orchids and facilitate ventilation.
11. Plant protection. Because many aspects of balcony orchid growing are less than satisfactory, the probability of disease occurrence is relatively high, and with orchid pots highly concentrated, infection is also faster. For this reason, disease prevention and control are also relatively important.
First, block the source and do not introduce diseased orchids; second, prevention is more important than treatment, strengthen daily orchid care so that they grow robustly and have strong disease resistance; in early spring each year, spray two to three times with chlorothalonil, thiophanate-methyl, zineb, carbendazim, etc., which can effectively prevent diseases; spray once or twice with dimethoate, Gaolvbao, etc., which can effectively kill pests; third, once pests or diseases occur, kill them promptly. When using pesticides, strictly follow the proportions. For those not used before, they must first be tested on coarse varieties of orchids, and after observing for ten days to half a month that they are beneficial and harmless, then use them on fine varieties of orchids.
Because the balcony is closely connected to people's other work and living environments, when choosing pesticides, try to choose low-toxicity and high-efficiency ones, preferably with no residue or harmless to people and livestock. When spraying, the balcony should be isolated from other rooms, and after the pesticide takes effect, promptly open doors and windows wide for ventilation, to prevent harm to people and pets.
Balcony orchid growing is obviously not the best choice of site for growing orchids, but for many orchid enthusiasts it is the only choice. For this reason, if you put in a little more thought and spend a little more energy, appropriately spend some money on renovating the balcony, and work seriously on all aspects of orchid growing, you can grow good orchids with lush leaves and abundant flowers and overflowing fragrance on a balcony. I publish orchid knowledge and pictures every day, taking you to understand orchids in depth and teaching you to grow orchids easily. If there is anything you do not understand about orchids, you can ask me at any time or leave a message below. If my knowledge has helped you, I hope you can give me a like or forward it to help more people!