Learn the Wall-Hitting 2.0 Cutting Method: Whatever You Stick In Will Root, and You'll Never Have to Buy Flowers Again

Wall-Hitting 2.0 Cutting Method

Gardening friends who have trouble getting cuttings to root must not miss this. Huahua will now use roses as an example to explain in detail how to use the "Wall-Hitting 2.0 cutting method"!

1. Prepare materials

Prepare some pure vermiculite, coarse or fine is fine, then find a few clean disposable plastic cups, and finally find a shallow tray that can hold water.

2. Cut the branches

Choose semi-lignified branches after flowering - branches after flowering contain more nutrients. Cut them into 6-8 cm long segments, keeping 1-2 growth nodes on each segment, and place them in a cool, ventilated place to let the wounds dry.

3. Poke small holes in the bottom of the disposable cup

Hold pliers in your right hand, grip a long nail with the pliers, heat it over a flame until it's red hot, hold the disposable cup upside down with your left hand, and poke 2-3 small holes in the bottom of the cup.

4. Soak the vermiculite in carbendazim solution

After poking small holes in the disposable cup, put the vermiculite into the cup, filling it to about 9/10 full, then immerse the entire cup in carbendazim solution - this can sterilize and disinfect. Soak for 1 hour, then take it out.

5. Soak the branches in carbendazim solution

Soak the rose branches with dried wounds in carbendazim solution. After soaking for 30 minutes, take them out and place them in a ventilated area to let the water on the branches dry.

6. Insert the branches into the vermiculite

After the water on the branches has dried, insert them into the vermiculite in the disposable cup, then place it in the shallow tray. Pour clean water into the shallow tray, with the water level 1-2 cm high, letting the vermiculite absorb water and stay moist.

7. Place outdoors

Place the cut branches and shallow tray together outdoors. You can place them in indirect light or in a sunny spot, such as an outdoor south-facing balcony. Be sure to provide shade during the strong midday sun.

8. Water promptly

When the water in the shallow tray decreases, add water promptly, always maintaining the water level at 1-2 cm, keeping the vermiculite moist.

9. Cover with a plastic bag for warmth

When the temperature is 22-25 degrees, cut branches are most likely to root. If the temperature doesn't reach this, you can find a transparent plastic bag to cover the rose branches to keep them warm and moist. Remember to poke 2 small holes in the plastic bag.

10. Roots appear after about 15 days

After 15 days, the rose branches will grow big white roots. It's best not to frequently pull out the branches to check root growth, to prevent damaging the tender young roots.

11. After 1 month, branches and leaves grow denser

Generally, after 1 month, the new leaves growing on the branches will become more and more numerous.

12. After 1 month, transplant when the root system has grown thick and strong

Wait until the root system has grown thick and dense, having reached the bottom of the plastic cup, then you can transplant the branches into soil. This can improve the survival rate after potting.

13. Plant into a pot

Mix leaf mold, river sand, and fermented chicken manure, put them together into a pot, then plant the rose branches, water thoroughly, and first place them in indirect light for 7 days, then move them into sunlight.

14. Fertilize promptly

Roses love fertilizer. You can water with fermented rice water or cake fertilizer every half month, letting the roses grow vigorously and burst out of the pot!

That's all for the introduction of the Wall-Hitting 2.0 cutting method.

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