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A Detailed Guide to Succulent Leaf Cutting Propagation Methods

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Succulent beauty shots | Care experience | Dream garden building | Hand-drawn DIY Author: Yan Shan / Compiled by: Succulent Plant Atlas (please indicate the source when reposting) Now let's begin the main text: I'm not a master, but I have three years of practical experience growing succulents. Today I'll talk about...

Succulent beauty shots | Care experience | Dream garden building | Hand-drawn DIY

Author: Yan Shan / Compiled by: Succulent Plant Atlas

(please indicate the source when reposting)

Now let's begin the main text:


I'm not a master, but I have three years of practical experience growing succulents.


Today let me tell you about my leaf cutting journey!

Many friends are endlessly envious of my skilled leaf cutting technique, but for me, leaf cutting is no pressure at all.

First, the requirement is how to choose leaves. Try not to pull the bottommost leaves off an old succulent, because the oldest bottom leaves may look big, but they are actually already sub-healthy and are within the range of being consumed, so it is not recommended to take them. The leaves in the middle are full of vitality, equivalent to the young and prime years of a human.


After choosing the leaves, the next step is how to mix the soil. For leaf cutting, the soil mix does not need large, coarse particles; fine sand should be the main component, such as river sand or sea sand, both are fine, plus nutrient soil. If you have vermiculite or perlite, you can also mix it into the soil to increase breathability. The ratio is 2:1:1:1; if you don't have the two types of particles, just use a 2:1 ratio.


After that, let the selected leaves dry for a period of time, and then you can just place them on the soil surface.

The process of drying the leaves is to prevent black rot and turning to mush. However, I am very impatient, and every time after pulling them off I just place them directly on the soil surface. During that time, black rot and turning to mush often occurred, but since there were so many leaves, I didn't care, haha! But don't learn this lazy habit from me ⊙?⊙! To be safe, drying is still a necessary process.


There are many ways to place the leaves. Some like to lay them flat (I do), some like to insert the growth point into the soil, and some like to insert them sideways.


The advantage of inserting sideways suits thin leaves. After a period of time, you will notice both ends curling upward. At this point, insert part of the leaf sideways into the soil, closer to the moisture of the soil, which is more conducive to rooting.


After that comes the process of waiting for roots and sprouts.

During this period, spray water on the leaf and soil surface every day; a mist-like level of moisture is enough. About twice a day is helpful so that the soil surface does not become too dry, promoting rapid rooting at the growth point.


After about a week or so, the leaf cuttings successively sprout and root. Some take longer, don't worry, it's just a matter of time. Some produce roots first and then sprouts, or sprouts first and then roots; don't be anxious either. Roots first means lack of light; sprouts first means the soil lacks moisture.

After the leaf cutting seedlings emerge, comes the care process. At this time, be especially careful; too much water easily turns them to mush, and the growth point of the old leaf is easily infected by fungi. Therefore, supply water near the sprouting point; a pointed-spout watering can is recommended.


After the root system becomes stronger, appropriately increase the watering frequency. I always water whenever I see the soil surface is dry, but master the amount of water well; don't give too much at one time.


After a few months, the leaf cutting seedlings become crowded. Some mother leaves are consumed into dead leaves, while some mother leaves are plump and round. Dead leaves fall off at a touch, so just pick them out; plump mother leaves can be slowly wiggled free and taken off for a second round of leaf cutting.


When the leaf cutting rosette grows to about three or four cm, you can transplant the seedlings, choosing an appropriate pot. During transplanting, try to keep the original soil and transplant while keeping the root system undamaged.

As the seedlings continue to grow and strengthen, the pots are changed accordingly, roughly once every year in spring and autumn.

A long-winded pile of words, just from my personal experience; please forgive any shortcomings. I hope it gives some reference to friends who always fail at leaf cutting, but you should still read more posts about various leaf cutting methods; more complete experience is what can improve the success rate of leaf cutting.


If any friends like it, why not experience it firsthand: the joy of leaf cutting, sharing the delight of leaf cuttings growing, and the growing process will constantly bring you surprises and anticipation. So what are you waiting for? Take action!


Finally, a few beautiful photos to anchor the post!

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Call for submissions theme: care experience under the environment of your own region, inspirational comparison records, watering and shape control, repotting and soil mixing, garden stories, etc. Find your audience here!

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Recruiting volunteers: In order for the official account to develop better and share more high-quality content with more than several hundred thousand succulent lovers, the village chief welcomes interested and energetic friends to join the Atlas family and work together to build the Succulent Plant Atlas. WeChat ID: duoroutupu2017

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