How to graft lilac? Detailed explanation of grafting methods and steps
I. Bud grafting
This method is generally done in July and August, and there are also many choices for the rootstock, including privet, water wax, fringe tree and lilac, etc.
1. Generally speaking, privet requires its sprouts to be cut off, and the process is a bit troublesome, because it grows often, but if you do not cut them, then afterwards it will not be lilac but privet.
2. Our scion needs to use the relatively robust leaf buds that grew that year. During the grafting process, the leaves on the scion need to be cut off, leaving only the leaf stalk, then we need to make a horizontal cut about one cm above the bud, and afterwards cut down about three cm from the middle part of the cut, so that the shape it presents is a "T".
3. Afterwards we peel open its bark, then insert the scion into it, the two need to fit tightly together, and afterwards plastic film should be used to tie it up.
4. Generally in two to three weeks the leaf stalk on the scion will fall off, and if it falls off, the bud has survived, and at this time we can cut off the plastic strip.
II. Branch grafting
1. This time is generally set in early spring, and the length of the scion also needs to be between eight cm and ten cm, generally two pairs of bud nodes should be left for it, and then the lower part of the scion should be cut into a slant.
2. Generally the true stock selected needs to be a lilac seedling that has grown for one or two years, generally it should be cut off five to ten cm from the ground, then a slit should be split vertically from the cut surface, and what needs to be done afterwards is to insert the scion in.
3. These two also need to fit tightly together, and what needs to be done afterwards is to tie it up with a plastic bag.
4. In order not to let the cut lose too much water, we need to bury it with very moist soil, and after the buds on the scion grow out, we need to remove the soil covering it.
5. We can collect the shoots in autumn and winter, bury them underground, and branch graft again in the spring of the next year. Generally speaking, the scion can grow to about fifty to eighty cm that year, and in the second year we need to cut the branch short, so that its side branches will grow better.
Approach grafting
This is directly cutting a notch on both its scion and rootstock, then tying them together. After new callus tissue grows at the cut, cut off the top branch from above the joint, and also cut one cm below the scion.