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This flower can be propagated by both seed sowing and cuttings, and the balcony is almost too full to hold them all

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Geraniums, because of their long blooming period, rich variety of flower colors, and being easy to grow and quick to bloom, are loved by many gardening enthusiasts. Moreover, geraniums can be propagated in 2 ways, and within a few months, the balcony at home can no longer hold them all. 1. Sowing: Place the seeds in clean water...

Geraniums, because of their long blooming period, rich variety of flower colors, and being easy to grow and quick to bloom, are loved by many gardening enthusiasts. Moreover, geraniums can be propagated in 2 ways, and within a few months, the balcony at home can no longer hold them all.

1. Sowing

Soak the seeds in clean water for 8-12 hours, choose a relatively fine, loose, and clean substrate, preferably a dedicated seed-starting peat moss mixed with a small amount of perlite, and place it into a seedling tray. Immerse the seedling tray in water and let the water gradually seep into the substrate through the bottom holes; when the surface of the substrate is moist, take the seedling tray out of the water and let it sit for 2-3 hours, allowing the water in the substrate to drain until it stops seeping; scatter the soaked seeds onto the substrate and cover with a little soil, just enough so the seeds are no longer visible.

After sowing, cover with glass or plastic film to keep warm and moist; the ideal temperature is 18-25°C, and it should not be too high or too low. If too much moisture collects on the glass, ventilate appropriately, but do not ventilate for too long, generally about ten minutes is enough. Seedlings will emerge in about 1-2 weeks. When the seedlings grow 2-5 small leaves, they can be transplanted, and be careful not to plant them too deep.

2. Cuttings

Geraniums can also be propagated by leaf cuttings or by shoot cuttings, and shoot cuttings are the most commonly used method for propagating geraniums. Cuttings are generally taken from May to July, when the temperature is 15-25°C, and the cutting substrate should be perlite or clean river sand.

Choose healthy, disease-free leaves; if the leaf is long, a section can be cut off, generally keeping 3-5 cm, insert the petiole diagonally into the substrate, then gently press the substrate firm with your hand so that the leaf stands steadily in the substrate without moving; the cutting density should be high, with the leaves preferably not touching each other.

After about 10-20 days, the petiole roots; after about 50 days, 1 or several small shoots can be seen growing out of the substrate; after another ten-plus days, when the small shoots have unfolded 3-5 small leaves, the small plantlets can be cut off and planted in pots, and the original cutting leaf does not need to be pulled out; after about another 30 days, new shoots can still grow.




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