Camellia and azalea leaves dry up and turn yellow without blooming; these are the points you did not get right

During the cultivation of camellias and azaleas, leaves often dry up, turn yellow, drop off, and the plants fail to bloom or bloom sparsely. These problems arise from not understanding their growth habits and growth needs. Different flowers have their own growth habits and needs, so by mastering the following points in care, you can make camellia and azalea leaves thick and deep green, and have them bloom every year.

1. Camellias and azaleas are both semi-shade plants, and both are long-day flowers. Many people may not understand what long-day means. In fact, long-day and light are two different concepts. Long-day means that the flower can only form flower buds in an environment with a day length of more than 12 hours. The sunshine here refers to bright light rather than direct sunlight. Therefore, during care they should be placed in a semi-shade environment and should not receive overly strong direct sunlight. Especially in summer and autumn, shade them or place them in the dappled shade under trees. In addition to giving a semi-shade environment, also provide a humid air environment, because dry air easily causes leaves to turn yellow, drop off and dry up. So, for a dry growing environment, frequently spray water on the leaves to increase humidity and keep the leaves fresh and lush.

2. Nutrition must be reasonable. Camellias and azaleas are very sensitive to water and nutrients. Too much fertilizer makes the leaves small, black, hard and slow-growing. Insufficient nutrients make the branches and leaves turn yellow, become thin and grow poorly. Too much nitrogen fertilizer causes the branches and leaves to grow excessively, and the plant fails to bloom or blooms sparsely. Therefore, when fertilizing flowers, the nutrition must be balanced and not one-sided. Before blooming, phosphorus and potassium fertilizer should be the main choice; after blooming, compound fertilizer should be the main choice. Persist with light fertilizer applied sparingly. Usually it is best to keep a little foliar fertilizer or nutrient solution at home, and spray the flowers with it every few days. This can not only reduce yellow leaves and leaf drop, but also make the leaves more oily green and glossy. Camellias and azaleas are most afraid of alkaline soil and water quality, and the water quality in the north is mostly alkaline, which is unfavorable for their growth. Note that alkaline water must be acidified before it can be used to water the flowers. The specific method is to store tap water for 2 days and add acidic fruit peels to it, so that the chlorine in the water evaporates, and secondly to adjust the pH of the water, and it also contains a certain fertilizing effect.

3. Shaping and pruning. After camellias and azaleas finish blooming, dry branches, diseased and weak branches, crossing branches, overly dense branches and branches that obviously affect the plant shape should be cut off, and excess flower buds should be thinned out, to facilitate ventilation. If you want camellia and azalea leaves to be glossy green all year round, besides what was said above, the most critical thing is the soil. You should choose a sandy loam with good drainage, strong water retention and rich in humus. You can also mix 4 parts leaf mold soil, 5 parts peat soil and 1 part coarse sand. Such soil generally will not cause yellow leaves or leaf drop. In addition, during care, do not move the position at will, otherwise it is unfavorable for their growth.