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How to Graft Rhododendrons? A Detailed Guide to Methods and Key Techniques

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For rhododendrons, there are many ways to propagate, and one of the more important ones is grafting. There are many grafting methods, but the one we generally use is the terminal cleft graft on softwood shoots, which can achieve a particularly high survival rate. Next, let's go over the specific method.

1. Timing

The method we use is actually quite good, but due to environmental factors and other reasons, we need to get the timing right. Carrying out this operation from May to June is best, because the plum rain also arrives during this period.

2. Rootstock

Generally, we should use a biennial, very well-grown single-trunk Rhododendron pulchrum with an upright stem as the rootstock. One thing we need to understand is that plants not of the same genus cannot serve as its rootstock, as the compatibility would be much weaker. In addition, the thickness of the new shoot and the scion must match. The cultivars we generally use are 'Yu Hudie' and 'Zi Hudie'. And for the scion, it is best to use vigorous softwood shoots of Western azalea (Rhododendron hybridum) grown in the current year.

3. Procedure

The specific operation we need to perform is relatively simple. First, select a softwood shoot about 3 to 4 cm long from the mother plant, then remove the lower leaves, keeping only the top 3 to 4 leaves. After that, trim the base into a wedge shape, with the cut surface controlled to about 0.5 to 1 cm in length. Cut off the Rhododendron pulchrum at 2 to 3 cm on the new shoot grown in the current year, then remove the leaves from this section, make a vertical cut of about 1 cm, insert the scion, and align the cortex and cambium. Then bind it well with plastic film or strips. After that, we need to cover the scion with plastic film, tie the bag opening tightly, and maintain good humidity and temperature.

After finishing, we should place it under a shaded greenhouse, and it must not be exposed to direct sunlight. Also pay attention to whether there are water droplets inside the bag; if not, untie it, spray it moist, and then tie the scion back up again. Generally, if the scion does not wilt after one week, it will succeed. After about two months, we can remove the bag, and in the following spring, untie the strips. Generally, the survival rate this way is particularly high, and a single plant will have several colors, looking very beautiful. This is also the benefit that grafting brings.

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