How do you encourage a bromeliad to bloom a second time? The method is very simple

Recently a friend asked me how to deal with their bromeliad after the flowers withered, so below I will teach you how to keep a bromeliad multiplying continuously. This method is actually division propagation, using its offsets for re-cuttings, and afterwards it can still keep blooming continuously.

Bromeliads all like a warm, humid environment. Even in winter the temperature must stay above 10°C, and the air humidity must be kept high, so that the bromeliad can maintain a longer blooming period.

After the bromeliad's flower bract withers, some pups will grow anew from the sides; these are the new seedlings. There are more than 3,000 varieties of bromeliads, and they are generally propagated by division. Once its offsets have grown fairly large, they can be re-cut.

Did you see the offset inside the red circle in the picture above?

Most bromeliad flowers can bloom for more than two months, and some even bloom throughout the whole winter and spring. The red and yellow parts are actually its flower bracts, while its actual flowers are hidden inside and very small.

After you see the bromeliad's flowers wither, do not water inside the flower bract, otherwise it easily causes rot and can also give off a bad smell. Withered flower bracts should be removed promptly, and afterwards maintain a certain level of air humidity, give the growing environment appropriate scattered light, keep the environment ventilated, and keep the growing temperature above 15°C.

Many people throw their bromeliad away after seeing the flower bract wither, but in fact it can continue to be grown; it will produce new offsets, and as long as they grow to about 15 cm they can be transplanted.

Its offsets generally appear after the flower bract withers, though some appear during or before flowering. If you want to grow the offsets until they bloom, it takes a very long time, generally about 1 to 3 years.

After the bromeliad's flowers are cut off, keep as many leaves as possible, as this promotes the sprouting of offsets, benefits growth, and can bring the offsets more nutrients. In subsequent care, avoid watering directly into the center of the leaf rosette; water directly into the soil in the pot. It is best to use peat moss mixed with bark, sand or perlite, so that good drainage is maintained, the roots can breathe, and a certain amount of moisture can be retained.

Why does your bromeliad's offset still not bloom even after it has grown up?

Some friends re-cut and propagate their bromeliad's offsets, then grow them for two or three years without them blooming, and the reason is simply insufficient nutrients.

I asked some friends at the nursery: for relatively young bromeliads, ethylene gas is generally used to promote flowering; during the bromeliad's blooming period, giving it ethylene can make it bloom.

But ordinarily a hobbyist's home cannot have ethylene gas, so we can place some ripe fruit next to it; an apple left sitting naturally will release ethylene gas.

Generally, put an apple that is not yet fully ripe into a bag, then put the apple and the bromeliad together into the bag. Then, as the apple slowly ripens, the ripening apple in the plastic bag will slowly release ethylene. This generally takes about three weeks, and you need to open it each day for appropriate ventilation.

After 8 to 13 weeks, the bromeliad will be able to develop a new flower spike.