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Exploring the Relationship Between Orchid Stem Rot, Soft Rot, and Water Entering the Leaf Core

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Recently, while chatting with a few new orchid growers, I found that most of them encounter a very serious problem, namely the two rots. Once this disease occurs, it is very difficult to cure completely. Even if handled properly, it will still recur next year. Very few succeed. Some just...

Recently, while chatting with a few new orchid growers, I found that most of them encounter a very serious problem, namely the two rots. Once this disease occurs, it is very difficult to cure completely. Even if handled properly, it will still recur next year. Very few succeed. In severe cases, some simply throw the plant away.

When growing orchids, you should first learn to explore, discover, and research. This is exactly what most beginners need to learn. Generally, after the two rots occur, everyone feels that water is the culprit. For example, when watering, if water flows into the leaf core, it rots. Actually, that is not how it works. Water is very wrongly accused. So what is really going on? This requires exploration, research, and pondering, or consulting experienced orchid growers. If it were true that water entering the leaf core causes the orchid to rot, then why after the same watering do only a few, one pot or two pots, develop rot, rather than all of them rotting? This is because the orchid that rotted is showing a normal manifestation of previous improper management and cultivation, and not that the orchid will rot simply because water enters the leaf core.

When encountering the two rots, you must solve it fundamentally, not just look at the surface. With good roots and strong seedlings, and good ventilation after watering in indoor cultivation, no matter what method you use to water, the probability of disease is very small. This is because a strong plant itself can resist external pathogens to the greatest extent. This also shows that the orchids of experienced growers suffer relatively less disease.

If you encounter the two rots and directly conclude it is a surface problem, such as water entering the leaf core, rain soaking, and so on, with this mindset you will never grow orchids well your whole life. Because you have not found the root of the problem, the same situation will happen again next time. Once again, after water enters the leaf core, as long as ventilation is good, there is no problem.

After an orchid rots, think about whether it was recently introduced and whether the seedling was unhealthy, which can cause rot. The only solution is to negotiate with the seller or introduce better seedlings next time. Is the home environment well ventilated, for example, is natural airflow unobstructed? The solution is that you must add a fan to imitate natural wind. Do not forget natural phenomena in pursuit of natural cultivation. After rain in the wild, the weather is cool and a gentle breeze brushes the face, and the two rots rarely occur. So if ventilation is poor, you must add a fan. Do not abandon the modern equipment you must use in pursuit of natural cultivation. Have pesticides and fertilizers been used recently? For beginners growing orchids, it is still acceptable to use some protective fungicides. But fertilizers are not recommended. Improper use of pesticides and fertilizers, or too high a concentration, will also harm the orchid, so fertilizers should temporarily not be used. Pesticides should be used according to the actual condition of the seedlings. At the same time, the mixing ratio of pesticides must be well mastered.

When an orchid rots, it seems to come all at once, and that is what makes it so fast. Little do people know that the problem has actually been hidden for a long time. For example, previous overwatering, or drought, has planted a time bomb for various diseases. Especially the two rots. With too much water, the roots rot, and the orchid's stomach is ruined. With drought, the roots become hollow, and the orchid's stomach is also ruined. If an orchid root cannot absorb nutrients and cannot transport nutrients, what can it use to supply the nutrients needed by the pseudobulb and orchid leaves? When the nutrients in the pseudobulb are exhausted, resistance to external pathogens drops sharply. If at this time the orchid leaf core has a bit of water and ventilation is not very good, so it cannot evaporate or drain away quickly, then orchid diseases such as the two rots are inevitable. It is just like a person who cannot eat enough food for a long time, or who eats several huge pots at once, and then gets stomach disease. If the stomach disease is not solved and this continues, the body will certainly be affected. Once there are pathogens or the like, those with weaker constitutions will be infected first. This is the same very simple principle.

While learning from others, combine it with your own actual situation and digest and absorb it scientifically and reasonably, and only then can you grow them better and better. Therefore, growing orchids requires exploration and research. Every rot can reveal a cause, every disease can teach a lesson, and every lost seedling can give you experience. Gradually, you will know how to grow orchids. If you do not think about the problem carefully, for example, if it rots, you just say water entered the leaf core, and then without considering the fundamental cause, directly throw it away and buy another, it is impossible to learn to grow orchids. In short, beginners must first grow the orchid roots strong. When the orchid roots are strong, the seedlings are strong. They can resist external pathogen invasion to the greatest extent. Learn more, ask more, research more, and I believe every orchid grower can grow orchids well. I publish orchid knowledge and pictures every day, taking you to understand orchids in depth and teaching you to grow orchids easily. If there is anything you do not understand about orchids, you can ask me at any time or leave a comment below. If my knowledge has helped you, I hope you can give me a like or share it to help more people!





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