Pothos and Gardenia Cutting Tips: This Way the Survival Rate Is 100%

Cut Pothos This Way - If It Doesn't Live, Come Find Me!

Today Huahua is going to teach you a super super super simple pothos cutting method! All you need is a piece of stem! The pothos Huahua grows was propagated by cuttings herself - the stems were picked up for free while browsing the flower market, not a single cent spent. Come take a look!

1. Cut Off All the Leaves, Cut the Stem into Small Sections

When Huahua picked up the pothos stems, the leaves were a bit wilted, but the stems were still fresh green, so Huahua simply cut off all the leaves, then cut the stems into sections, each 3-4 cm long with at least 1 node.

2. Prepare the Cutting Soil

Pothos likes soft, clean soil. Huahua suggests first sunning the river sand and leaf mold to sterilize them, then mixing them together. You can also add some vermiculite to make the soil loose and airy, which helps pothos root even better.

3. Let the Stems Lie on the Soil

After cutting the stems, let the wounds dry in a cool, ventilated place for a while, then lay them horizontally on the surface of the potting soil. If there are aerial roots on the nodes, make sure the aerial roots touch the soil.

4. Water Once Thoroughly

After laying out the stems, water once, and water thoroughly - when you see water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, you can stop watering.

5. Cover with Transparent Film to Keep Warm and Moist

Right now in some northern places the temperature may still be a bit low, so cover the pot surface with a layer of transparent plastic film, tie it around the rim of the pot with string, and poke 2 small holes in the film for ventilation. Move it to a bright spot indoors.

6. Roots in About 15 Days

While waiting for roots and shoots to grow, pay attention to whether the soil has dried out and water promptly to keep the soil moist, but don't water too much, or you'll regret the rot in the pot. Generally after about 15-30 days, fresh green glossy young leaves will appear, and the roots will already be thick and white!

7. Transplant into a Pot

Wait until the new leaves grow bigger and the number of leaves reaches 3-5; by then the roots will also have grown fairly strong, and you can dig them out and pot them up. To reduce root damage, you can transplant them with the soil.

Cut Gardenia This Way - 100% Survival!

Spring is here, and gardenia growers are surely happy - not only can they look forward to enjoying the flowers, but they can also take cuttings and turn 1 pot into 10. Finding it hard to root gardenia cuttings? Hurry up and try the amphibious cutting method - they'll absolutely root like crazy! It'd be harder to kill them than to keep them alive!

1. Cut Off a Gardenia Stem

Try not to choose stems that are too tender; 1-2 year old woody stems survive more easily. Cut the stems diagonally at 45 degrees into sections, each 10 cm, and put them in a ventilated place to dry for 1-2 hours so the wounds dry and heal.

2. Plug the Drainage Hole of the Pot

Light a candle, hold it upside down with your hand, and let the melted wax drip onto the drainage hole. Drip for a while to seal the drainage hole. Once you think it's completely sealed, you can pour in water to check for leaks - it absolutely must not leak! Then pour the water out.

3. Pour Soil into the Pot to 3/5 Full

Dig up some garden soil from the neighborhood greenbelt, put it in the sun to sterilize, then put it into the pot. Garden soil should fill 3/5 of the pot.

4. Add a Layer of River Sand

First rinse the river sand clean with water, then spread it flat in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into the pot. River sand should fill 1/5 of the pot; no need to mix it with the garden soil.

5. Pour Clean Water into the Pot

Pour clean water into the pot, preferably along the rim, slowly, letting the water soak through the soil. Stop pouring once the water level is about 1 cm above the sand surface.

6. Insert the Stems into the Soil

After the stem wounds have dried, you can insert them into the pot. Don't insert them too deep - let the stems stand steadily. 3-4 stems per pot is enough; too dense is bad for later growth. If the drainage hole can't be sealed tightly, a plastic bottle works too.

7. Change the Water Every Week

Move the pot to indirect light and add clean water promptly, keeping the water level always 1 cm above the soil. Every 7 days, pour the water out and replace it with fresh water.

8. Roots in About 15-20 Days

After 15-20 days, the gardenia will have rooted. If you used a flower pot, just poke the drainage hole open from the bottom inward, let the water drain completely, and put it in a well-ventilated place. Water again when the soil dries. No more worrying about not being able to keep it alive!

Cut Roses This Way - Roots at Amazing Speed!

Some flower lovers like taking cuttings, but lose battle after battle - 9 out of 10 times they blacken and rot, making one helplessly question life. How do you get a high survival rate with rose cuttings? Come learn the master's vermiculite tray method - it not only prevents black rot, but also makes roots grow like crazy, 100% breaking the curse of "cuttings always die"!

1. Post-Bloom Stems Survive More Easily

To improve the survival rate, try to choose stems after flowering, because at this time the stems are relatively rich in nutrients.

2. Cut the Stems

Wipe the scissors with alcohol to sterilize them, cut off 1-year-old healthy post-bloom rose stems, cut off the section with the flower, and make the cut flat. Keep the lower 2 nodes, and make the cut that goes into the soil a 45 degree diagonal cut.

3. Soak in Carbendazim

Put the cut stems into carbendazim to soak, which can sterilize and disinfect. After 20 minutes, take them out and let them dry in a ventilated place. Flower lovers whose cuttings always black-rot must not forget this step.

4. Dip in Rooting Powder

Dip the bottom cut of the rose stem in some rooting powder, or soak it in white sugar water diluted 10 times, to speed up rooting.

5. Choose the Cutting Soil

First put vermiculite or river sand in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into a transparent plastic bottle. The bottom of the bottle needs a few holes poked in it for drainage and airflow.

6. Put the Plastic Bottle on a Tray

Find a tray, or a water basin will do, fill it with water, with the water 3-5 cm deep, and put the soil-filled plastic bottle on it, letting the soil absorb water and become moist.

7. Insert the Stems into the Soil

First poke a few holes in the soil, then bury the rose stems. Put them in indirect light - they must not be in direct sunlight, to prevent them from wilting. Normally you don't need to water the soil; when you see the tray has no water left, add more.

8. Roots in 15-20 Days

After about 15-20 days, you can see white roots in the transparent plastic bottle, and tender green leaves have also grown. Let the roots continue growing for a few more days, then cut the plastic bottle open, take the stems out with the soil, and transplant them into a new pot!

Taking cuttings is very interesting,

Don't miss out again this spring!

Even if they black-rot or the stems rot, don't lose heart,

Try a few more times and you'll succeed!

If you think Huahua's super cutting methods are useful,

Then share them with others to take a look!