Cuttings Always Rot and Turn Black? This One Trick Makes White Roots Sprout Like Crazy

Some gardening friends say that if you grow plants without taking cuttings, you miss out on so much of the fun, and Huahua couldn't agree more. Taking cuttings is such a rewarding thing to do - watching a little stem sprout white roots like crazy and then burst into a full pot is pure joy! Today, Huahua has prepared a few 100% success cutting methods for you, so come take a look!

Take Pothos Cuttings This Way, and If It Doesn't Live, Come Find Me!

Today Huahua is going to teach you a super super super simple pothos cutting method! All you need is a piece of stem! The pothos Huahua grows was propagated by Huahua from cuttings - the stems were picked up for free while browsing the flower market, without spending a single cent. Come take a look!

1. Cut off all the leaves, cut the stem into small sections

When Huahua picked up the pothos stems, the leaves were a bit wilted, but the stems were still bright green, so Huahua simply cut off all the leaves and cut the stems into sections, each 3-4 cm long with at least 1 node.

2. Prepare the cutting soil

Pothos likes soft, clean soil. Huahua suggests first sunning river sand and leaf mold to disinfect them, then mixing them together. You can also add some vermiculite to make the soil loose and airy, which is even better for pothos to root.

3. Let the stems lie on the soil

After cutting the stems, let the wounds dry in a cool, ventilated place first, then lay them horizontally on the surface of the potting soil. If there are aerial roots on the nodes, make sure the aerial roots touch the soil.

4. Water once thoroughly

After laying out the stems, water once, and water thoroughly. Once you see water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot, you can stop watering.

5. Cover with clear plastic film to keep warm and moist

Right now in some northern areas the temperature may still be a bit low, so cover the pot surface with a layer of clear plastic film, tie it around the pot rim with string, and poke 2 small holes in the film for ventilation. Move it to a bright spot indoors.

6. Roots in about 15 days

While waiting for roots and sprouts to grow, pay attention to whether the soil is dry, and water in time to keep the soil moist, but don't water too much, or you'll regret the rot in the pot. Generally after about 15-30 days, fresh green glossy young leaves will appear, and the roots will already be thick and white!

7. Transplant into a pot

Wait until the new leaves grow bigger and the number of leaves reaches 3-5. By then the root system will also be fairly strong, and you can dig them out and pot them up. To reduce root damage, you can transplant them with the soil.

Take Gardenia Cuttings This Way, 100% Success!

Spring is here, and gardenia growers are surely happy - not only can they look forward to enjoying the flowers, but they can also take cuttings and turn 1 pot into 10. Finding it hard to root gardenia cuttings? Hurry up and try the amphibious cutting method - they'll absolutely root like crazy! It's hard for them to even die!

1. Cut off gardenia stems

Try not to choose stems that are too tender; 1-2 year old woody stems are easier to keep alive. Cut the stems diagonally at 45 degrees into sections, each 10 cm, and leave them in a ventilated place for 1-2 hours to let the wounds dry and heal.

2. Plug the drainage hole of the pot

Light a candle, hold it upside down by hand, and let the melted wax drip onto the drainage hole. Drip for a while to seal the drainage hole. Once you think it's completely sealed, you can pour in water to check for leaks - it absolutely must not leak! Then pour the water out.

3. Pour 3/5 soil into the pot

Dig up some garden soil from the green belt in your neighborhood, put it in the sun to sterilize, then put it into the flower pot. Garden soil should make up 3/5 of the pot.

4. Add a layer of river sand

First rinse the river sand clean with water, then spread it flat in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into the flower pot. River sand should make up 1/5 of the pot. There's no need to mix it with the garden soil.

5. Pour clean water into the pot

Pour clean water into the flower pot, preferably slowly along the pot rim, letting the water soak through the soil. Stop pouring once the water level is about 1 cm above the sand surface.

6. Insert the stems into the soil

After the stem wounds have dried, you can insert them into the pot. Don't insert them too deep - just let the stems stand steadily. 3-4 stems per pot is enough; too dense is bad for later growth. If the drainage hole isn't sealed tightly, a plastic bottle works too.

7. Change the water every week

Move the pot to indirect light and add clean water in time, keeping the water level always 1 cm above the soil. Every 7 days, pour the water out and replace it with fresh water.

8. Roots in about 15-20 days

After 15-20 days, the gardenia will have rooted. If you used a flower pot, simply poke the drainage hole open from the bottom inward, let the water drain out, and place it in a well-ventilated spot. Water again once the soil is dry. No more worrying about failing to keep them alive!

Take Rose Cuttings This Way, Roots Grow Incredibly Fast!

Some gardening friends love taking cuttings, but lose every battle - 9 out of 10 times they rot black, making them helplessly doubt life. How do you get a high survival rate with rose cuttings? Come learn the master's vermiculite tray method - not only can it prevent black rot, it also makes roots grow like crazy, 100% breaking the curse of "cuttings always die"!

1. Post-bloom stems are easier to keep alive

To increase the survival rate, try to choose stems after blooming, because at this time the stems are relatively rich in nutrients.

2. Cut the stems

Wipe the scissors with alcohol to disinfect them, cut off 1-year-old healthy post-bloom rose stems, cut off the section with the flower, and make the cut flat. Keep the lower 2 nodes; the cut that goes into the soil should be cut diagonally at 45 degrees.

3. Soak in carbendazim

Put the cut stems into carbendazim to soak, which can sterilize and disinfect. After 20 minutes, take them out and let them dry in a ventilated place. Gardening friends whose cuttings always rot black must not forget this step!

4. Dip in rooting powder

Dip the bottom cut of the rose stem in a little rooting powder, or soak it in white sugar water diluted 10 times, to speed up rooting.

5. Choose the cutting soil

First put vermiculite or river sand in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into a clear plastic bottle. Poke a few holes in the bottom of the bottle for drainage and ventilation.

6. Place the plastic bottle on a tray

Find a tray, or a water basin works too, fill it with water about 3-5 cm deep, and place the plastic bottle filled with soil on it, letting the soil absorb water and become moist.

7. Insert the stems into the soil

First poke a few holes in the soil, then bury the rose stems. Place them in indirect light - they must not be in direct sunlight, or they'll wilt. Normally you don't need to water the soil; when you see the tray has no water left, add more.

8. Roots after 15-20 days

After about 15-20 days, you'll be able to see white roots through the clear plastic bottle, and tender green leaves will grow too. Let the roots keep growing for a few more days, then cut the plastic bottle open, take the stems out with the soil, and transplant them into a new flower pot!

Taking cuttings is so much fun,

Don't miss out again this spring!

Even if they rot black or the stems rot, don't lose heart,

Try a few more times and you'll succeed!

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