What varieties of olive are there? A detailed guide to seedling propagation methods
Olive is actually an excellent street tree and windbreak species; its wood can be used for shipbuilding, as railway sleepers, and for making furniture, farm tools and building materials. The fruit can be eaten raw or preserved, and is used medicinally to treat laryngitis, coughing up blood, excessive thirst, and enteritis with diarrhea. The pit is used for carving and also medicinally, and is effective in treating fish bones stuck in the throat. Let's learn together below: what varieties of olive are there? What are the seedling propagation methods for olive?
I. What varieties of olive are there?
1. Chaozhou Green-Skin Olive
This is a long-famous superior individual tree of Chaozhou City; the mother tree is in Xiangpu Township, Yixi, and a single fruit weighs 12 grams. The fruit is attractive in shape, good in flavor and high in edible rate; it is an early-maturing variety excellent for both fresh eating and processing.
2. Dongjie Round Olive
Mainly produced in Meitang, Puning, Guangdong, the fruit is long-elliptical and yellow-green. A single fruit weighs about 9 grams; the flesh is crisp, with relatively few fibers, melts in the mouth, is sweet, and has a rich aftertaste, of high quality. The flesh and pit are not easily separated.
3. Black Olive
Black olive, also known as dark olive. The fruit is ovate to long-ovate, purple-black, 3-4 cm long, larger than ordinary olives. The pit is blunt at both ends, large and smooth, with a nearly round cross-section.
4. Chaoyang Three-Ridge Olive
Mainly produced in Chaoyang, Guangdong, the fruit is obovate and a single fruit weighs 10 grams. The flesh is white, crisp and melts in the mouth, with a strong fragrance and a sweet aftertaste; the pit is brownish-red. It is a variety of exceptionally high quality for fresh eating.
II. What are the seedling propagation methods for olive?
1. Selecting mother trees and collecting seeds
Select trees with a large crown, dense fruiting branches, large fruit, compact fruit spacing, high yield per plant and stable superior traits as seed mother trees, and collect seeds at the right time. 1.1 Harvesting fruit
Keep seed after Frost's Descent, harvesting once the pits have fully hardened and the seed embryos have developed soundly.
1.2 Extracting the seeds
Method of retting the flesh to obtain seeds: pile fresh fruit in a windless room in a layer 60-70 cm thick, cover with plastic film or rice straw, and let the fruit rot naturally; turn it once every week, remove the rotted fruit, then take the pits, wash them clean and dry them in the air. Method of scalding the fruit to obtain seeds: first put the fresh fruit in a stone mortar and tread on it with the feet for about 15 minutes, then place the fruit with its skin rubbed broken into a large bamboo strainer and put the whole strainer into boiling water to cook for 1 minute, shaking the strainer constantly; when the fruit skin turns pale yellow, take it out at once and plunge it into cold water to soak for about 1 hour, then tap each one lightly with a wooden mallet to separate the flesh from the pit. The flesh can be pickled as food. Method of salting to obtain seeds: mix fresh olive fruit with table salt at a ratio of 20:1, then pour it into a vat and tread on it with the feet for 25-30 minutes until the flesh and pits separate, then soak in clean water for 6-8 hours, and afterwards tap lightly with a wooden mallet to take the pits. The flesh can be processed into food.
1.3 Stratifying the seeds
Olive seeds need stratification treatment to complete the after-ripening stage; choose a wind-sheltered, cool indoor spot, and use river sand with 60% moisture content (when you squeeze the sand tightly in your hand it forms a ball without dripping water) in 1 layer, olive pits in 1 layer, and pile them alternately in 4-5 layers. If the river sand dries out, spray water promptly, or sieve out the seed pits and re-stratify them, and sow in March-April of the following year.
2. Selection and preparation of the nursery site
The olive seedling nursery site should be chosen as level ground with deep soil, ample sunlight, a low water table, convenient drainage and irrigation, and fertile soil, or as mountain land with a southeast slope aspect and good air circulation.
2.1 Preparation of a conventional nursery site
In winter, plow deep, sun-bleach the soil, and apply plenty of base fertilizer, applying 1000-1500 kg per mu of rotted human and livestock manure or farmyard manure, and form seedbeds. In February-March, apply about 100 kg of superphosphate, and form standard nursery beds (bed surface 1.2-1.5 m wide and 22-24 cm high, with a 30 cm wide furrow between beds).
2.2 Preparation of a nursery site for plastic nutritional bags
In winter, before plowing and harrowing the plot, apply base fertilizer (same amount as above), mix the soil and fertilizer evenly, and heap the fertilized soil toward the center of the bed before filling the bags. The nutritional bags have a caliber of 15 cm, a thickness of 0.2 cm and a length of 30 cm. When filling with soil, put the lower half of the bag with soil from the bottom layer of the plot and the upper half with fertilized soil, and shake and pat the bag so the soil settles firmly; dig bag-placement trenches 15 cm wide and 20 cm deep, place 6 bags per trench, arranging them row by row, with bags pressed tightly against each other, and after arranging them, heap the trench soil back around the plastic bags to prevent the plastic from aging. The specifications are: bed surface 100 cm wide, 20 cm high, and furrow 30 cm wide.
3. Sowing
3.1 For conventional nursery propagation, in February-March, draw shallow furrows in the garden soil with a hoe at a row spacing of 30 cm, and apply additional superphosphate or rotted human manure, then after loosening the soil, place 1 stratified seed with the pointed end down at a plant spacing of 20 cm, at a sowing depth of 1-2 cm; in order to carry out timely gap-filling of seedlings during the seedling stage, you can broadcast some seeds at a plant spacing of about 5 cm in the spare areas around the plot; after sowing, promptly cover with 2 cm of mushroom soil or soil mixed with manure, then cover with plastic film or rice straw.
3.2 For nursery propagation in plastic nutritional bags, in March-April, take out the stratified seeds, sun them, soak them in hot water at 75-80°C for 0.5 minutes, then pour them into cold water to soak for 1-3 hours, and sow; place 1 seed with the pointed end down in each bag at a depth of 1-2 cm, cover with 3 cm of mushroom soil or burned soil, then cover with a layer of plastic film or rice straw to increase soil temperature and prevent the soil from crusting.
4. Management after sowing
After olive sowing, germination begins in 40-50 days; the emergence period is relatively long, so to maintain suitable soil temperature and moisture and prevent heavy rain from washing the soil, cover with mulch for protection. If the seedlings are dry, and there is a spring drought and high temperatures, water them. After the seeds germinate and break through the soil, promptly remove the rice straw and tear film holes in the plastic film, to avoid the young seedlings being suppressed by the mulch and having their growth affected. When the seedlings have grown 2-3 true leaves, begin applying light fertilizer, first applying about 5% rotted human urine and manure, then once every half month thereafter, with the concentration gradually increasing; later, on rainy days, compound fertilizer can be applied directly onto the nutritional bags, but it must never touch the seedlings, and the application rate per mu should be kept within 1 kg; quick-acting fertilizers such as urea and ammonium bicarbonate must not be applied.
When true leaves appear, if germination is uneven, you can move seedlings with soil to fill the gaps; each olive seed can produce 1-3 seedlings, so during the seedling stage you should also do a good job of thinning, keeping only 1 strong seedling per bag; if thinned seedlings are to be used for gap-filling, water them well immediately after transplanting to settle the roots. Olive seedlings are afraid of frost; in late autumn and early winter, set up covering frames in the nursery for protection against frost and snow, so as to cover them promptly against frost damage, and in extremely low temperatures, irrigate to protect against the cold.
In summary, the above is all the content on olive seed selection and seedling propagation; in fact, there are many olive varieties, and when choosing varieties you must suit measures to local conditions.
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