Which lemon seedling varieties are good? What are the seedling raising methods?

When it comes to lemons, many friends think of one word: sour. But the nutritional value of lemons is very high, and friends who like lemons do not find them especially sour. In addition, lemon juice is the best seasoning for many drinks and foods. So which variety is best to choose for growing lemons?

1. Which varieties of lemon seedlings are good?

1. Eureka

Also known as Youlike and Youlika, native to the United States, it is currently the most widely cultivated variety in the world. The fruit is oval to obovate, medium to large, with a single fruit weight of 90-160 g, long oval, with a nipple-like protrusion at the top, a bluntly rounded base, and radial grooves. The rind is light yellow, with large oil cells, and under normal management levels it shows thin skin and few seeds.

2. Fino

Originating in Spain, it is the main cultivar in Australia. The fruit is medium in size, spherical or oval, light yellow or yellow in color, with thin and smooth skin, and high acidity.

3. Genoa

Originating in the Genoa region of Italy, the rind is smooth and thin. The fruit shape is rounder than Eureka and the neck is shorter. The citric acid content, juice yield, and rind thickness are comparable to Eureka.

4. Beijing Lemon

Also known as Xiangningmeng and Meihua Lemon, it is a hybrid of lemon and orange or lemon and mandarin. It was discovered in the suburbs of Beijing in 1908 and taken back to the United States for continued selection and breeding. It has low acidity, a slight bitterness, a soft internal structure, especially good resistance, tolerates heat and cold, and has thin skin and abundant juice but does not store or transport well.

2. Lemon seedling raising methods

1. Shoot growth

Lemons have strong growth vigor and send out 3-5 new flushes a year, repeatedly flushing, flowering, and fruiting. The shoots are long and sturdy, with good productivity.

Spring shoots from February to April: the time of new shoot sprouting is relatively consistent, and the number is large. The shoots are short, fine, dense, and neat, and most differentiate flower buds to form fruiting mother branches.

Summer shoots from May to July: the branches grow robustly, with relatively strong vigor, absorb more nutrients, have dark green leaves, and the cross-section of the branches is triangular, making them prone to forming water sprouts.

Autumn shoots from August to October: most are fruiting mother branches for the following year. Affected by flowering and fruiting, the number sent out is relatively small, the branches are slender, and development is not full.

Winter shoots from November to January of the following year: affected by low temperature and nutrients, the number sent out is small, nutrition is insufficient, and yellowing is likely to occur.

2. Pruning key points

The main purpose of pruning young trees and first-bearing fruit trees is to cultivate the crown framework so as to expand the crown faster and better. Young tree pruning is suitable in winter. During the growing season, pinching and necessary heading back should be carried out, retaining as many branches and leaves and auxiliary branches as possible.

Pinching long shoots: young trees tend to send out long shoots. After shoots are sent out in each season, except for retaining 8-10 leaves on long shoots and pinching, all the rest should be pinched as tender shoots. A retained length of 20-25 cm is appropriate, to make the crown full and robust, branch early and branch more, thereby expanding the crown as quickly as possible.

Remove water sprouts in time: water sprouts disrupt the tree shape and waste nutrients, so they should be removed in time.

Branch bending: for upright shoots with vigorous growth, the methods of pulling and propping should be used. Stronger branches should be pulled down, and the branching angle should be opened to 40°-50°. Using pulling and propping measures on young trees can make young trees bear fruit 1-2 years earlier.

Bud removal and shoot release: for young trees, bud removal and shoot release can be carried out in summer, that is, releasing one autumn flush, to help expand the crown as quickly as possible.

Summer shoot pruning: for strong and vigorous young trees, more vigorous shoots are sent out. Because vigorous summer shoots do not easily send out autumn shoots and are also unfavorable for flower bud differentiation, bud removal and thinning are carried out from May to July. Therefore, they are all cut off in early August, so that more autumn shoots are sent out from late August to early September. Most of these autumn shoots flower and bear fruit the following year.

Auxiliary branch cultivation: small branches usually sent out within the crown should generally be retained as long as they are not water sprouts or overly dense branches. These small branches are often good fruiting mother branches for young trees.

Flower and bud thinning: for buds and fruits that appear on weak young trees before planned fruit production, they should be thinned in time to promote nutrient production in the tree body and to form a fruiting crown for production as soon as possible.

3. Flower and fruit retention

After spring buds sprout, first apply 0.2% zinc sulfate once. Before flowering, spray 0.5% urea + 0.2% superphosphate + 1% potassium sulfate once. After 2/3 of the flowers have fallen or after flowering, spray with 0.4%-0.5% urea + 0.2%-0.3% monopotassium phosphate together with a flower and fruit retention agent (Sanxiao Luye Shen). During the fruit expansion period, spray with 0.3% urea + 3% superphosphate + 0.5% potassium sulfate. After the young fruit has set steadily, keep the soil moisture sufficient. The key is to water thoroughly once 10 days before the beginning of spring.

4. Fertilization management

Fertilizing young trees that have not yet borne fruit aims to promote the crown to grow larger as quickly as possible and put it into production as early as possible. However, care should be taken to prevent excessive fertilization that causes excessive nutrition and water sprouts, so as to avoid delaying flowering and fruiting. For young tree fertilization, the principle of "frequent application and light application" should be mastered. Young fruit trees are mainly fertilized three times a year:

The first fertilization is in mid-February, that is, the pre-flowering fertilizer, accounting for 25% of the year. Per mu, 800-1600 kg of farmyard manure, 8 kg of urea, 8-16 kg of superphosphate, and 8-16 kg of compound fertilizer should be applied.

The second fertilization is from the end of June to early July, accounting for 50% of the year. Per mu, 1600-3200 kg of farmyard manure, 16 kg of urea, 16-32 kg of superphosphate, and 8-10 kg of compound fertilizer should be applied.

The third fertilization is from the end of August to early September, accounting for 25% of the year. Per mu, 800-1600 kg of farmyard manure, 8 kg of urea, 8-16 kg of superphosphate, and 8-16 kg of compound fertilizer should be applied.

In summary, that is all for today. Among the currently well-known lemon varieties, Eureka and Fino are both among them. When choosing, be sure to consider the local ecological environment for planting.

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