How to Grow Succulents: Watering Frequency and Succulent Varieties Suitable for Beginners

In recent years, succulents have gradually become a new favorite among plant lovers thanks to their small, delicate appearance. So how should you grow small potted succulents? Read on with the editor to learn about the growing methods and precautions for small potted succulents.

What are succulents?

As the name suggests, succulents are plants that are full of water and fleshy. To put it more professionally, they are plants with enlarged nutrient organs whose leaves have been reduced to help store large amounts of water. In horticulture they are sometimes called succulent flowers. They are mainly found in the Crassulaceae, Agavaceae, Euphorbiaceae, Apocynaceae, Liliaceae, and Aizoaceae families.

Growing methods and precautions for small potted succulents

1. Pot requirements:

Clay pots absorb water very well, so overwatering is not a big problem and the negative effects of watering too much can be eased, but a clay pot becomes heavier after absorbing water, so the flower stand used must be sturdy. The breathability of purple clay pots falls between that of tile pots and porcelain pots, and succulents are generally grown in purple clay pots. With purple clay pots, special attention must be paid to the thickness of the pot wall: the thinner the wall, the stronger the breathability, while a pot with a thick old wall has breathability close to that of a porcelain pot.

2. Soil requirements

For succulents, the potting soil sold on the market is mostly somewhat limited, so experienced enthusiasts often mix their own. What counts as high-quality potting soil? Simply put, it should be a sandy loam that is loose and breathable, drains well, has a certain granular structure, and can provide the nutrients the plant needs during its growing season. When mixing, pay attention to a reasonable combination of organic and inorganic materials and avoid overly fine, tiny dust.

3. Watering key points:

Succulents themselves are basically made up of water. A plant that can store water on its own can survive even if it is not watered much. On the contrary, if it is given too much water, it cannot hold the excess and will rot and slowly wither. So every time you water, pay attention to observing the state of the plant. If the plant becomes thin and shriveled, that is a sign it needs water; if it already has enough water, it will look plump. This is a simple way to tell the difference.

Check the weather forecast before watering, and water according to the local air humidity. In spring and autumn you can water freely; in these two seasons the succulents are growing madly. In summer it is best to water in the early morning or evening. In winter it is best to water at noon. Beginners are advised to use the “empty pot method”: prepare two identical pots, put the same medium in them, plant a plant in one and leave the other unplanted. Water both in the same way and with the same amount of water. Before the next watering, tip out the soil from the unplanted pot and observe how dry or moist the soil is; if it is dry, water, and if it is not dry, do not water. When watering, do not pour water directly on the plant; water around the edge of the pot.

4. Light requirements:

How much sunlight the placement location gets is also a very important point. Not only succulents, but all succulents cannot survive in a place with no light at all. Without light, the plant will grow like a bean sprout, weak and limp, and the color of the leaves will slowly fade. If you want to keep them healthy and well-shaped, you must give them the most suitable sunlight. Artificial light cannot replace sunlight; this point needs attention.

Daily precautions

1. Winter care: In winter, some cold-sensitive varieties will drop their leaves and enter a dormant period. At this time, cold-sensitive varieties can go without watering at all until spring. However, they must spend the winter indoors, placed by a window with light and given as much sun as possible. At night, place the plants a little farther from the window to prevent freezing.

2. Summer care:  In summer you can judge whether to water based on the condition of the succulent leaves, and when watering it is best to top up moisture on a cool night.

In summer, indoor rooms should be well ventilated; do not place them in a sealed room. If the room has air conditioning it is not a big problem, but air conditioning also puts stress on plants, so try not to place them directly in front of the air conditioning vent.

3. Spring care: Spring is the growing season for many succulents, so water should be actively replenished; once the surface is dry, water thoroughly. At this time the succulents can be appropriately placed outdoors to receive light, but if they are suddenly taken outside they can still easily get sunburned. You can first choose a cloudy day to take them out, or on a sunny day cover them with newspaper first, and once the plants have adapted to the light, remove it. On days with cold waves or frost, it is still better to put them indoors at night.

4. Autumn care: In autumn succulents need less attention; just water when the soil is dry and water thoroughly when you do. At this time it is best to place them in a sunny spot.

Propagation methods for succulents

1. Seed sowing: Generally, the seeds of succulents stored at room temperature for 1 year quickly decline in germination rate. For this reason, many succulents are sown immediately after the seeds mature or stored for sowing the following spring. The germination time also differs among different families and genera: the earliest can germinate in 2 days, while the latest takes 25 days to germinate.

2. Leaf cuttings: The thick, fleshy leaves are often laid on a slightly moist sand bed or loose soil surface; they soon take root, and adventitious buds grow from the base of the leaf to form small plants, such as Aeonium, Echeveria, and Kalanchoe daigremontiana.

3. Stem cuttings: In the process of propagating succulents, combined with pruning and shaping, branches are cut into sections as cuttings, such as desert rose, purple dragon horn, crown of thorns, and Euphorbia tirucalli. For desert rose, African baobab, and Euphorbia, whose cut sections exude white milky sap, the cuts must be cleaned thoroughly and dried slightly before sticking the cuttings, for better results.

4. Root cuttings: For the relatively precious varieties of the Liliaceae genus Haworthia, the roots are very thick and well developed. Cut off the more mature fleshy roots, bury them in a sand bed with the upper part slightly exposed, and keep them somewhat moist with bright light; new shoots can sprout from the top of the root to form complete small plants.

5. Grafting: In succulents, grafting is often used to propagate variegated and fasciated varieties. For example, using Euphorbia neriifolia as rootstock to graft spring peak; using Portulacaria afra as rootstock, etc., gives a good ornamental effect. However, during grafting, because the plant body contains white milky sap that is very sticky, the grafting operation must be as fast and skillful as possible to succeed.

6. Division: Division is the simplest and safest method of propagating succulents. Any succulent with a rosette leaf cluster or a clustered growth habit can be propagated by division through its offsets, runners, bulbs, tubers, and small plants, and this can be done when repotting in spring. Of course, among succulents, variegated varieties such as Sansevieria trifasciata 'Laurentii', variegated Dyckia, variegated Agave, and variegated Haworthia must be propagated by division to maintain the purity of the variety.

Analysis of leaf drop in succulents

It is generally divided into several situations:

1. There is a problem with the roots. This prevents the plant from absorbing water effectively. The specific problem may be: 1. too much watering; 2. poor soil breathability; 3. long-term lack of sunlight. Of course, the above three may exist at the same time.

2. Pathogens. This is generally black rot or sooty mold. It is usually caused by the soil being too wet for a long time; sooty mold may also be caused by scale insects or ant droppings.

3. Natural shedding. It is metabolism, after all; this kind generally starts from the root leaves gradually softening and withering, but they do not fall off easily. It is very easy to identify.

Solutions:

1. Water less, and do not water on cloudy days. The soil breathability should be good; you cannot just dig up any soil to grow succulents. Give more sun.

2. For black rot, just behead it and let it regrow; sooty mold can be treated with medication.

3. You can leave it alone. You can also take off the leaves before they soften and use them for leaf-cutting propagation.

Which succulents are suitable for beginners?

Crassulaceae succulents are relatively easier to grow. Varieties such as Graptopetalum paraguayense, Echeveria 'White Peony', Sedum adolphii, Sedum pachyphyllum, and Echeveria elegans are all easy to grow and have tenacious vitality. Among Liliaceae, easier varieties include Haworthia cooperi, Haworthia cymbiformis, and Haworthia limifolia, which are very suitable for beginners to practice on. Also, for beginners, cactus family plants are even easier to grow.

How to choose succulents?

When choosing, it is best to select plants with fibrous roots and roots that are not dried out, so that after buying them and planting them they will send out new roots in a relatively short time. The plant should have normal color, clean patterns, and no disease spots, insect spots, or water-soaked spots. When buying mixed planters, not only should you pay attention to whether the arrangement of plants is well staggered, appropriately spaced, and novel and interesting, but you should also pay attention to whether the living habits of the various types are similar.

What to do if pests and diseases occur?

Succulents do not attract many insects. Normally, when there are no insects, there is no need to use insecticide; once insects are found, just use insecticide continuously for 2—3 times according to the instructions. If the plant is always listless or barely alive, you need to check the roots of the plant to see whether there are scale insects or blackening and rotting of the roots. If there are insects, remove the insects and change the soil; if the roots are rotting, you need to cut off the rotten roots, and in very serious cases the entire root must be removed. 15. Is the plant dying if it drops leaves? First observe the state of the plant. If only the bottom leaves of the plant are drying up and falling off, this should be because the ambient temperature where the plant is growing is too high, causing the plant to enter a dormant state. At this time, reduce the amount of watering.

Keeping succulents alive is easy, but wanting to grow succulents well is not an easy task, and there is a lot of knowledge to understand.