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What do freshwater hatchetfish (Gasteropelecidae) eat and how big can they grow? Care and male-female identification

General News By Sophie Bennett 0 views
Hatchetfish, also known as flying characins, are a common type of ornamental fish. Because they are the only fish that can truly fly, and their flight differs from the gliding of flying fish, they attract a large number of ornamental fish enthusiasts. They are currently available for sale on the market. So what do hatchetfish eat to grow? How big can they grow? How do you tell male from female? How

Hatchetfish, also known as flying characins, are a common type of ornamental fish. Because they are the only fish that can truly fly, and their flight differs from the gliding of flying fish, they attract a large number of ornamental fish enthusiasts. They are currently available for sale on the market. So what do hatchetfish eat to grow? How big can they grow? How do you tell male from female? How do you keep them?

What do they eat to grow?

Hatchetfish are omnivorous, feeding mainly on animal-based foods. They can take small live foods, small insects in the water and on the water surface, as well as artificial foods. Because hatchetfish have a strong jumping ability, their food is mainly animal-based. Hatchetfish are relatively difficult to breed, and they lay their eggs on fine-leaved aquatic plants.

How big can they grow?

Body length is generally 5-6 cm, but there are many species of hatchetfish, and each species has a different body length. For example, the neon tetra-like hatchetfish, the neon hatchetfish, has a body length of 2.5 cm. The silver-spotted hatchetfish has a body length of 9 cm, so it is hard to say for sure, but at most, hatchetfish can only grow to 9 cm.

Tips for telling male from female:

The red patch on the front of the male hatchetfish's head is very obvious and especially vivid, while the female's is very pale, and in some individuals it cannot even be seen. The male generally has a large bump on its head. The female is generally larger in size, and its belly is also fairly rounded. When keeping this fish, if you find a male and female approaching each other, with the vent drooping and protruding, and not letting other angelfish come near, these are signs that they are about to spawn and breed, and you should promptly scoop them out and place them in a pre-prepared spawning tank.

For the spawning tank, a large aquarium should be chosen as much as possible. The water depth must not be less than 40CM, and the length and width should also have a minimum of 80CM and 40CM. The water quality should be the same as the fish-keeping water, except that the water temperature should be raised by another 1-3 degrees, that is, 27-29 degrees is ideal. Inside the spawning tank, you also need to prepare an additional attachment for the eggs -- a stainless steel sheet, frosted glass sheet, or plastic board will all do, placed at a 45-degree angle to the tank wall in the center of the water body, 20CM below the water surface.

Keeping tips:

1. The fish tank should be calm: Hatchetfish need a spacious water body and a quiet environment. With a large tank and plenty of water, water quality is easier to maintain. There should be plenty of fish; with too few, the fish will feel lonely and fight, while a school of fish is less prone to illness. Fish scrambling for food is a sign of health. With too few fish, there is no competition, and over time they will not eat actively, making them prone to illness. It is just like an only child being delicate, while children with siblings are tougher. With more fish, the filter must keep up, otherwise the water easily becomes cloudy. Therefore, your tank should keep at least 5 pairs or more.

2. Bare tank or semi-bare tank: You can place some high-end artificial plants in a bare tank; at aquarium shops they cost about 30 yuan each. Adding sand will make cleaning more difficult. If you add many plants, then keep fewer fish, focusing mainly on the scenery, with the fish as merely a foil. If you mainly keep fish and enjoy the way the fish swim in the water, then you cannot add many plants, or even none at all; keeping more fish and adding more plants cannot both be achieved.

3. Feeding: Do not feed the fish within 2 days after they enter the tank, and do not keep the light on all the time. After two or three days, feed some bloodworms. Absolutely do not feed tubifex worms, as tubifex worms will cause contamination. After buying bloodworms, first soak them in potassium permanganate for 10 minutes (the water turns purple-red), rinse them clean until the water is clear, then drain off the water, put them in a damp towel, then put them in a crisper box, and then place the crisper box in the refrigerator's fresh-keeping compartment; they do not need to be frozen. Do not feed too much. We are keeping fish for fun, not selling fish. Fish that grow too fast are not vigorous. Feeding once a day is enough, with each feeding finished within 5 minutes. When a fish is swallowing and spitting, it means it is full; reduce the amount next time, until it is just right. Feeding fish must be at fixed times, in fixed amounts, at a fixed location, and of fixed quality; this is crucial.

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