A Detailed Guide to Centipede Farming Methods, How to Raise Millipedes

The centipede, also called the millipede, Tianlong and so on, is a venomous terrestrial arthropod, and because it is widely used in traditional Chinese medicine, it has been artificially farmed in recent years. So, what are the farming methods for centipedes?

1. The living habits of centipedes

The centipede is a typical carnivorous animal, eating all kinds of insects, snails, loaches, river snails, frogs, fish and other animal-based feed, and it also eats plant-based feed, so during artificial rearing you can feed it loaches, yellow eels and fish innards; it is especially fond of eating live tadpoles, and an appropriate amount of compound feed can be added. From a fertilized egg to sexual maturity, the centipede needs to molt 11 times, growing about 1 cm with each molt, and it takes about 3 years to reach sexual maturity. The centipede begins hibernation below 15 degrees, and artificial farming can control the temperature, extend the growth period, and improve economic returns.

2. Farming methods

1. Building the pond

Choose a ventilated, sunny, shady, damp and secluded place to build the pond. The farming pond is built with bricks, with specifications of 5 m long, 2 m wide and 0.8 m high. The inner four walls of the pond are faced with cement, and around the mouth of the pond glass is used to set a 15 cm wide eave at right angles to the pond wall, to prevent enemies and centipedes from escaping. In the pond, spread a layer of about 10 cm thick black soil rich in organic matter that has been exposed to sunlight. Along the bottom and around the pond, place lime-disinfected roof tiles in an arc shape, with sponges padded on both sides. Some weeds can be planted in the pond to simulate the wild environment.

2. Introducing breeding stock

For introducing breeding stock, choose centipedes that are large in body, mild in temperament, fast-growing, high in reproductive rate, and free of disease and injury as breeders. A female-to-male ratio of 3:1 is appropriate, and about 30 per square meter is appropriate; do not put in too many.

3. Feeding management

① Spring: When the temperature rises back to about 17 degrees, the centipedes awaken. At this time their digestive ability is poor, so for every 100 centipedes add 10 g of dried yeast tablets, then add an appropriate amount of milk powder to warm water and let them drink it. At the same time, feed them mashed river snail meat, freshwater mussel meat, frog innards and live tadpoles, etc. A glass vessel should be placed in the pond for drinking water, and the fresh water should be changed once a day.

As the temperature rises, the amount of food fed should be appropriately increased. When the temperature is below 15 degrees, do not feed, to avoid bloating disease. At this time, control the humidity between 20%-25%. During the mating period and egg-laying period, feed once a day; at other times, feed once every 2 or 3 days. The next morning, pick out the leftover food. When hungry, centipedes may kill each other and die from poisoning. In addition, during the incubation period, no feeding or water is needed.

② Summer and autumn: Because the temperature is suitable, centipedes have a strong appetite and grow relatively fast, but this is also the season with the highest disease incidence. In the morning and evening, sprinkle an appropriate amount of water into the pond, a small amount at a time but more frequently. Generally, control the humidity between 15%-20%; when the humidity is too high, add a small amount of black soil. From mid-May to late June each year is the mating and egg-laying season for female centipedes, so the work of protecting eggs during laying must be done well. Centipedes about to lay eggs should be kept separately to avoid disturbance and increase the hatching rate. A plastic soda bottle can be used as a breeding bottle; drill 10-20 small holes of 0.2-0.5 mm in the bottle for ventilation, put half a bottle of moist soil in the bottle (appropriate when it forms a ball in the hand and breaks apart when thrown down), put the centipede about to give birth into the bottle, one per bottle. If after four or five days it still has not laid eggs, then the soil needs to be replaced and the feed replenished. Place the breeding bottle in a place with dim light and relatively high humidity, and maintain a quiet environment. During the egg-laying period, pay attention to observing the centipede's activities, eating, drinking and so on. After hatching, the young centipedes should be separated from the mother centipede in good time for rearing, to avoid the mother centipede swallowing the small centipedes.

③ Winter: The main work is to keep warm and retain moisture, with the temperature controlled at about 20 degrees, to extend the growth period.

3. Disease control

1. Green muscardine disease

Most cases are caused by eating spoiled feed and unclean drinking water. In the early stage, small black spots appear on the membranous skin of the centipede's joints, gradually spreading over the whole body, causing loss of motor coordination, slow crawling, and finally emaciation and death. Sick centipedes found should immediately be isolated for treatment or culled. For drug treatment, use 0.6 g of dried yeast tablets, 0.25 g of oxytetracycline and 0.25 g of chloramphenicol, mix with 400 g of food and feed.

2. Enteritis

Enteritis in centipedes is caused by low temperature or feeding rotten and spoiled feed. In the early stage, the head of the centipede is purplish red, movement is slow, the venomous claws are fully spread, it does not eat or eats little, and it gradually becomes emaciated. After the illness, large numbers die in 5-7 days. For drug treatment, use 0.5 g of sulfonamide tablets and 0.5 g of chloramphenicol, mix each into 300 g of feed respectively, and feed alternately every other day.

The above are the centipede farming methods summarized by the editor. I hope they can help you!