What are the precautions for planting Saposhnikovia divaricata? The latest planting key points in one article

Saposhnikovia divaricata is mainly used to treat wind-cold, colds and skin diseases, and is often used in our daily lives, but we are not very familiar with it, perhaps only limited to hearing the term Saposhnikovia divaricata and vaguely feeling as if we have seen it somewhere, but its medicinal effects and scope of use have been developed, so many people have devoted themselves to the Saposhnikovia divaricata planting industry, and some even plant two of them on their own balconies. What Qinnong.com wants to teach everyone today is about several matters that need special attention during the planting process of Saposhnikovia divaricata, hoping to help everyone.

1. Seed treatment methods

If sowing with seeds, then we first need to find some river sand, then wet the river sand, and stir the seeds into the river sand so that each seed is evenly coated with a layer of sand, then place the treated seeds in an environment with a suitable temperature for fifteen to twenty days, and when young buds appear on the seeds, they can be sown.

2. Sowing and seedling raising methods

There are two ways to sow Saposhnikovia divaricata: one is to sow with seeds, and the other is to sow with tubers. Let us first talk about seed sowing. Make furrows in the land at a distance of twenty to twenty-five cm per row, then evenly scatter the seeds into the furrows. The depth of the furrows must not be higher than four cm, and finally cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil. For tuber planting, first dig out the tubers and cut them into small segments, each about ten cm, then make furrows in the land at a row spacing of twenty-five cm, place them at a spacing of ten cm per plant, and finally cover with a layer of soil to bury and plant them.

3. Scientific fertilization methods

When planting, it is necessary to apply nitrogen fertilizer first. Generally, farmyard manure is used at about two thousand five hundred kg, and then twenty to thirty jin of phosphate fertilizer also needs to be scattered to supplement fertility. When the Saposhnikovia divaricata seedlings in the field grow to three to four cm, we first need to remove the weeds in the field, then apply about sixty kg of phosphate fertilizer and potassium fertilizer as a topdressing, or mix with water for irrigation. The second topdressing is when the seedlings develop to about fifteen cm. At this time, it is mainly to promote the seedlings, so it is mainly urea and potassium fertilizer. The last topdressing is when the tubers of Saposhnikovia divaricata swell. At this time, we mainly spray the medicinal material Gendaling, and apply twenty kg of boron fertilizer per mu on average.

4. Effective pest and disease control

Common pests and diseases of Saposhnikovia divaricata include powdery mildew, root rot, spot blight, Papilio machaon, Loxostege palealis and Cavariella aegopodii, etc. Powdery mildew mainly appears in summer and autumn, and is very harmful to the leaves of Saposhnikovia divaricata. The control method we use is to apply more phosphate and potassium fertilizers and strengthen light and permeability. When the disease occurs, spray with 50% thiophanate-methyl 800—1000 times liquid for control. Root rot mainly harms the roots, so drainage measures should be done in advance and accumulated water in the field should be drained in time. Papilio machaon, Loxostege palealis and Cavariella aegopodii are several of the most serious pests. We generally spray with trichlorfon solution or dichlorvos solution, once every seven to eight days, and about three consecutive sprays are enough.

5. Correct harvesting methods

Saposhnikovia divaricata is generally planted this year and can be harvested in November of the second year. General Saposhnikovia divaricata branches and leaves will grow to three hundred cm high, so it can generally be harvested when the branches and leaves slowly turn yellow-green. If you are worried that it is not ready, I can now find a plant in the field and first dig away the nearby soil to see whether the tuber has grown. If the tuber is thirty to thirty-five cm long, then it can be harvested with confidence.