Latest Kapok Grafting Propagation Technique Method Tutorial
Kapok is a plant with very high economic value, possessing not only high ornamental value, but its flowers, bark, etc. also have certain medicinal value. Moreover, the cotton-like fluff produced after the fruit matures can replace cotton as a raw material for quilts and cotton-padded jackets. It has a wide planting area in our country, but whether for ornamental or medicinal planting, propagation is required. Therefore, today the editor brings you the grafting propagation technique for kapok. Let's take a look below!
1. Cultivating Rootstock
The seeds of kapok mature around Qingming Festival each year. Kapok seeds have a relatively high oil content and relatively low storability, and are prone to failing to germinate, so they are generally sown as soon as they are collected. When raising seedlings, broadcast sowing and drill sowing are generally the main methods. When drill sowing, pay attention to the row spacing and depth. After sowing, cover with fine soil, then cover well with rice straw. They will sprout in about a week, and the seedlings will be complete after two weeks. After the seedlings break through the soil, do a good job of loosening the soil and weeding, and thin the seedlings appropriately. When the seedlings grow to about 6 cm and have grown 2 leaves, transplant them into nutrient bags. When the seedling diameter at breast height grows to 20-30 cm, carry out grafting.
2. Scion Selection
We should select sturdy, plump-budded, wound-free, disease-and-pest-free, non-flowering branches from mature, already flowering, robustly growing mother kapok plants as scions. The diameter of the branch scion should be kept at about 1 cm, and the bud eye spacing should preferably not exceed 2 cm. After cutting off the scion, remove the leaves on the branch to prevent water evaporation from the branch, then wrap the branch with a wet cloth and place it in a cool place. If storage is needed, seal both ends of the branch and bury it in a sand bed, then cover the branch with a sand layer of about 5 cm, water appropriately, and do a good job of ventilation.
3. Timely Grafting
Different regions have different grafting times. Generally, April to May should be avoided, because the temperature at this time is relatively high, which can easily cause the scion to wither and die. First, select a plump bud on the scion, and on the opposite side, at a position 15 mm from the lower part, cut a flat surface about 1.8 cm long with wood. Then cut an inclined surface of about 46 degrees on the opposite side, cut off at 0.9 cm from the top, and control the scion length at about 5 cm. Then cut open the rootstock seedling at about 16 cm above the ground, cut the grafting interface vertically, insert the prepared scion into the grafting interface, ensuring that both sides are in close contact, with the top of the scion exposed white. Then wrap and tie it tightly, clamp on the grafting clip, and wrap a layer of grafting film at the bud eye.
4. Post-Grafting Management
About half a month after grafting, check the survival of the grafted seedlings. If the buds are glossy and fresh, and the petiole falls off when gently touched, it means they have survived; otherwise, it means they have not survived, and timely re-grafting should be done. After survival, let the buds break through the film on their own. When the grafted seedlings have all turned green and unfolded, promptly loosen the protective film to prevent affecting the growth of new shoots, but the healing area should be unwrapped appropriately later to avoid injuring the scion. Also promptly remove rootstock sprouts to prevent nutrients from being too dispersed, concentrating nutrients on the new shoots. Finally, do a good job of intertillage, weeding, and fertilizer and water management. When fertilizing, mainly apply more frequent small amounts, and increase the proportion of nitrogen fertilizer.
The above is a brief introduction to the kapok grafting propagation technique. After the kapok graft survives, attention should also be paid to doing a good job of disease and pest prevention and control. Generally, the main damage is from pests of the leaf beetle and geometer moth types, which seriously harm the growth of surviving grafted seedlings and reduce planting benefits. That is all for today's introduction. This article is for reference only. Thank you all for reading and supporting.