How to Grow a Cactus Ball? A Detailed Guide to the Latest Cultivation Methods

The cactus ball is a common type of household flower. With proper care, it not only grows fast, but also has a bright, glossy body and blooms profusely. The cactus ball likes warmth and fears severe cold; if the room temperature drops below 2°C, it will be damaged by frost and die, so it should be moved indoors in winter. How much to water depends mainly on various factors such as temperature, light duration and wind. If the temperature is relatively low, the cactus ball grows slowly and uses less water, so watering should be controlled; the lower the temperature, the more the potting soil should be kept dry. Mature balls are more drought-tolerant than small ones.

Temperature

The cactus ball likes a hot, dry environment. In winter, the room temperature should be kept above 20°C during the day and not lower than 10°C at night. Too low a temperature easily causes root rot.

Light

The cactus ball requires plenty of sunlight, but in summer it must not be exposed to strong direct sun and needs appropriate shading. For indoor cultivation, artificial lighting can be used to make it grow vigorously.

Potting Soil

The soil for potted cactus balls should be sandy soil (or sandy loam) with good drainage and aeration that contains lime. It can be made by mixing 2 parts loam and 2 parts leaf mould, 3 parts coarse sand, plus 1 part limestone gravel or old lime wall debris discarded when old buildings are demolished. It can also be made by mixing 2 parts loam and 2 parts coarse sand, with 1 part each of broken brick, leaf mould and old lime wall debris. When planting, a small amount of broken brick and tile pieces should be placed at the bottom of the pot to ensure smooth drainage.

Planting

Planting and potting up are best done in early spring. The flower pot should not be too large; it is best if it can just hold the ball with a slight gap. If the pot is too large, the water cannot be absorbed after thorough watering, air cannot circulate in the pot, and the roots are prone to rot. A few taproot-type species, such as Lophophora williamsii and the giant cactus ball, require a relatively deep cylindrical pot. Species with shallower root systems, such as Mammillaria and Rebutia, can use a shallower ordinary flower pot.

Repotting

For potted cactus flowers, it is best to use highly breathable clay pots, with broken brick pieces placed at the bottom as a drainage layer. Cacti have relatively small root clusters, so the pot should not be too large; the pot diameter should be close to the diameter of the plant body for a neat and harmonious look. When repotting, part of the old roots should be cut off, and after drying for 4-5 days, the plant can be potted up. It should not be planted too deep; it is best if the root crown of the ball is level with the soil surface. To avoid root rot, newly planted cactus balls should not be watered; simply mist them 2-3 times a day, then after half a month water lightly, and only after one month, when new roots have grown, gradually increase watering.

Watering

In summer, the best time to water is early morning; in winter, it should be done in the morning on a clear day; in spring and autumn, either morning or evening is fine. Generally, do not pour water from the top, otherwise ugly spots will appear on the ball over time. Generally, watering must be thorough, and for this reason the soil must be loosened regularly so that the potting soil can evenly absorb enough water.

Summer is the growing season for the cactus ball. With high temperatures and a large water requirement, it must be watered fully, preferably in the early morning or evening when temperatures are low; at noon, when it is hot, watering can easily cause sunburn on the ball. During the hot, rainy plum season, watering should also be appropriately moderated. For cactus balls with a sunken top, be careful not to let water get into the depression, as this can cause rot; this is even more important when watering in the evening.

During winter dormancy, watering should be moderated, just enough to keep the potting soil from becoming excessively dry; the lower the temperature, the more the potting soil should be kept dry. Mature large balls are more drought-tolerant than small seedlings. In winter, watering should be done in the morning on clear days. As the temperature rises, the plant will gradually come out of dormancy, and only then can the frequency and amount of watering gradually increase.

Fertilizing

Potted cactus balls can also be fertilized appropriately during the growing season, especially those grafted onto Hylocereus undatus, for which fertilizing should be taken even more seriously. A fully rotted, dilute liquid fertilizer can be used, applied once every 10-15 days. After autumn begins, control fertilizer and water; generally applying once a month is enough, and stop fertilizing in early October
. If fertilizer is not controlled and the cactus ball is allowed to keep growing, the tender ball is more susceptible to frost damage when overwintering. When fertilizing, be careful not to get it on the ball; if it does get on, rinse it off with water promptly.

Base fertilizer should be mixed into the growing medium in an appropriate amount before potting up or repotting, such as fully rotted oil cake meal, bone meal, chicken and pigeon manure, etc., and left to sit for a period so the fertilizer and soil fully blend. Topdressing should be based on the plant's growth; during the vigorous growth periods in spring and autumn, apply a fully rotted fertilizer solution of feathers, hooves and horns, or oil cake, once every two weeks. Note that the root osmotic pressure of cacti is very low, so the fertilizer solution must be diluted and weak; never use a strong concentration or raw manure. It can also be applied alternately with a mixed solution of 0.1% urea and 0.2% potassium dihydrogen phosphate, with the amount of fertilizer solution used being just enough to cover the surface of the potting soil. For home cultivation, if the potting soil is high in organic matter, chemical fertilizer alone can be applied to keep the environment clean. Fertilizing is prohibited during extreme summer heat and the low-temperature dormant period.