What are the latest propagation methods for kalanchoe?
The main propagation methods for kalanchoe are cuttings propagation and tissue culture propagation. Both propagation methods have their own advantages and characteristics. During the propagation of kalanchoe, different methods can be chosen according to actual needs. Below, let us get to know these two propagation methods for kalanchoe.
Tissue culture propagation method for kalanchoe
In the United States and France, starting in the late 1970s, the stem tips, leaves, stems, flower buds and flowers of kalanchoe were used as explants, with MS medium plus 2 mg/L kinetin and 0.1 mg/L naphthaleneacetic acid to induce adventitious buds. Then 1/2 MS medium plus 1 mg/L indolebutyric acid was used to induce rooting. At room temperature of 25-27°C and 16 hours of light, small plantlets can grow after 4-6 weeks.
Cuttings propagation method for kalanchoe
It works best when carried out in May-June or September-October. Choose slightly mature fleshy stems, cut 5-6 cm long, insert them into a sand bed, cover with plastic film after watering, keep room temperature at 15-20°C; roots appear 15-18 days after insertion, and they can be potted in 30 days. A 10 cm pot is commonly used. If there are not many seedlings, leaf cuttings can be used. Cut healthy, plump leaves from the petiole, wait until the cut surface is slightly dry, then insert them obliquely or lay them flat on the sand bed, keep moist; after about 10-15 days, roots can grow from the leaf base and new plants will grow.
When using the cuttings propagation method to propagate kalanchoe, there are some points to note:
1. Use clean yellow sand, sandy loam or nutrient soil as the medium, and it is best to disinfect with a 0.1% potassium permanganate solution.
2. Pinch off branches 6-10 cm long, with more than two leaf base segments. When taking cuttings, cut the cuttings as close to the same height as possible. The lower end of the cut is generally slanted, and it is best to keep it 2 mm from the lowest bud eye to facilitate rooting. The upper cut should be flat and at least 4 mm from the highest bud to avoid the upper cut drying out and discoloring after water loss, which may cause cutting failure.
3. Insert directly into the medium; an insertion depth of 1/2 to 2/3 is better, press firmly, and water thoroughly once. After that, just keep the medium moist. Do not water too much or spray too much, because it can easily cause fleshy leaves and stems to rot.
4. After cutting, if conditions permit, cover with plastic film to keep warm and moist, which can promote rapid rooting of the branches and ensure the survival rate.
5. Newly inserted cuttings should avoid strong light, preferably under scattered light conditions, and cuttings should not be fertilized for the time being after insertion.
6. Insert and they will live, rooting in about a week. Once new axillary buds and leaves grow, they can be transplanted.