How to grow Epiphyllum oxypetalum? A detailed guide to the latest cultivation methods
Hello everyone, today we will talk about growing Epiphyllum oxypetalum. The idiom “a fleeting glimpse of the epiphyllum” draws precisely on the trait of its very short blooming time. to describe things that appear briefly and vanish in an instant. The flowers of Epiphyllum oxypetalum are large and beautiful when they open; they do not bloom during the day, but only after eight or nine o'clock at night, and the flowers usually fade after 3-4 hours. Because its blooming time is very short and the flowers fade not long after opening, it is called the “fleeting glimpse of the epiphyllum”.
As for why Epiphyllum oxypetalum blooms for only a few hours at night, it is generally thought that this should be understood from the climatic conditions of its place of origin. Epiphyllum oxypetalum originated in the deserts of tropical Mexico in the Americas, where the climate is both dry and hot. Through long-term adaptation to natural conditions, Epiphyllum oxypetalum developed the trait of not fearing drought. Its leaves have degenerated into very small needle-like forms to reduce water transpiration. During the day, temperatures are high and water evaporation is great, so it cannot obtain enough water to open its flowers. Only at night, when temperatures are lower and evaporation is reduced, can it obtain enough water to bloom.
What exactly is Epiphyllum oxypetalum?
Epiphyllum oxypetalum is a perennial succulent plant in the cactus family, genus Epiphyllum, reaching a height of up to about five meters. The old stems are cylindrical and rod-like, while the rest are flat and leaf-like, with very long internodes, 15 to 40 cm long and 6 cm wide, with wavy green edges; the old stems become woody, and the branches divide in a feathery pattern; the whole plant is smooth, hairless and spineless. It blooms every year from May to November. The flowers are solitary at the uneven spots on the leaf-like stems; where there is a recess with a flower bud, no branch is produced, and if a branch is produced, no flower bud is formed. The flowers open at night, pure white and elegant, with a striking delicate fragrance. The base of the floral tube is brownish, and after withering it still hangs on the mother plant for several days. The sepals are numerous and thread-like; the petals are numerous and long spoon-shaped. The stamens are also numerous, and the stigma is multi-lobed.
Epiphyllum oxypetalum originated in the area from Brazil to Mexico in the Americas, and is now cultivated worldwide. In the mid-17th century it was introduced to Taiwan, China by the Dutch. At present it is commonly cultivated throughout the province, and can be seen in almost every rural courtyard; urban households also often grow it in courtyards or on balconies. It grows best in semi-shade conditions. Propagation by leaf-branch cuttings has a survival rate of nearly one hundred percent, and even children can raise seedlings and propagate it. The young flower buds of Epiphyllum oxypetalum hang downward, then curve upward before opening, beginning to open slowly at about six or seven in the evening and fully opening around ten o'clock. Because its opening time is very short and it withers within just a few hours, there is the saying "a fleeting glimpse of the epiphyllum". The flowers that are about to wither can be picked, briefly prepared, and put into a shredded meat soup pot to become a sweet, sticky delicacy. Because Epiphyllum oxypetalum may open several to as many as dozens of flowers on the same day, they must be picked, sun-dried and stored so as not to waste them. Habits: perennial succulent plant, mostly cultivated as an ornamental flowering plant, blooming every year from May to November; the flowers open at night and the opening time is very short, withering within just a few hours, hence the saying "a fleeting glimpse of the epiphyllum". Propagated by cuttings, it survives very easily.
How to grow Epiphyllum oxypetalum at home
1. Choosing and using soil: Epiphyllum oxypetalum likes slightly acidic sandy soil rich in humus, well drained, loose and fertile. The usual potting soil mixing ratio is: leaf mold soil : garden soil : sand = 4:4:2. After mixing the soil, it is best to sterilize it by exposing it to the sun. When planting, place a layer of broken tiles or brick pieces at the bottom of the pot to improve aeration and drainage.
2. Principles for watering: Epiphyllum oxypetalum likes moist soil and relatively high air humidity, but fears waterlogging. When temperatures are low in late autumn, winter and early spring, Epiphyllum oxypetalum is in a semi-dormant state, so watering should be strictly controlled, keeping the potting soil on the dry side; after it dries out, a light watering is enough. After spring temperatures rise, Epiphyllum oxypetalum begins to resume growth, and the amount of watering can be gradually increased to keep the soil moist. During vigorous growth, in addition to watering, water should also be sprinkled around the plant to increase air humidity and strengthen ventilation.
4. Fertilization methods: Epiphyllum oxypetalum relatively likes fertilizer and also has relatively high fertilizer requirements. Well-rotted organic fertilizer is best, plus a small amount of bone meal or superphosphate. Add it when preparing the soil and mix it evenly with the potting soil; the application rate is 1/20 to 1/30 of the potting soil. After new stems grow in spring, begin topdressing. During the growth period, if the leaves turn yellow, apply a 500-fold ferrous sulfate solution once; after flower buds appear, apply a 1000-fold monopotassium phosphate once; after the flowers fade, increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer once about every 20 days; stop fertilizing in late autumn.
5. Propagation method for Epiphyllum oxypetalum: propagate by cuttings of flat branch segments. In a greenhouse, cuttings can be taken in all four seasons, but April to May is best. For cuttings, choose slightly older, robust flat branch segments from the previous year (too tender ones rot easily), cut them into sections 10 cm to 15 cm long, let them dry for 2 to 3 days, and after the cut ends have dried and sealed, insert them into a propagation medium or sand. The insertion depth should be about 1/3 of the cutting (not too deep). If the soil is moist, do not water for the time being; afterward, keep the soil slightly moist and on the dry side. Roots begin to form in about 20 days. When the roots grow to 4 cm to 5 cm, the plant can be potted. With proper management, even 2-year-old seedlings can bloom.
6. Repotting method: Young Epiphyllum oxypetalum plants are repotted once a year, while established plants are generally repotted once every 2 to 3 years. Repot in spring when the temperature is above 12°C, or in September. Stop watering before repotting so that the potting soil dries and the plant can be removed from the pot. Handle it gently when removing it to avoid bumping the plant. After removing it from the pot, remove the old soil outside the roots, prune away dead and broken roots, then plant it and place it in a semi-shaded spot. Do not water for the time being; after 2 days water lightly and keep the potting soil on the dry side.
Daily care methods for Epiphyllum oxypetalum
1. Plants more than three years old should be tied and fixed, otherwise they tend to lodge.
2. During the flowering period, maintain sufficient light.
3. Epiphyllum oxypetalum is not cold tolerant. In winter it should be moved indoors, and the temperature should preferably be kept above 5°C to prevent cold damage.
How to grow Epiphyllum oxypetalum through the four seasons
If well cared for, Epiphyllum oxypetalum can bloom continuously 4 to 5 times during the summer and autumn rainy seasons, but the following four issues should be noted.
1. In spring, when moving it out from indoors, repot and change the soil once. A pot about 1 cm to 2 cm larger is suitable; too large often causes excessive moisture, while too small restricts root development. If the roots are damaged, cut them off, and if possible coat the wounds with charcoal powder or sulfur powder, then plant after drying. After repotting, place it in a sunny spot and apply an organic fertilizer combining nitrogen and phosphorus about once every half month to encourage new leaves and branches.
2. The three months of July, August and September in summer and autumn are the key time of the year for flower viewing, and care should be especially emphasized, with strengthened fertilizer and water management. After the first flowers fade in June, apply a fertilizer combining nitrogen and phosphorus about once every half month, so that in the following three months it can still bloom once a month. At the same time, during this period the potting soil should generally be kept on the dry side, and standing water should be drained immediately after rain. The fertilizer should be fully fermented and rotted organic fertilizer.
3. At noon in midsummer, prevent direct exposure to the scorching sun, otherwise the leaves turn yellow and growth and flowering are affected.
4. After Frost's Descent, it needs to be moved indoors and placed at a sunny window. Protect it from freezing and keep it warm, and stop fertilizing. At this time the potting soil should preferably be dry; if too moist, it often causes the leaves to wilt and droop and even root rot, while the drier it is, the more cold tolerant it becomes.
Common questions about growing Epiphyllum oxypetalum
1. Can it take direct sunlight? What temperature is suitable?
Too strong sunlight will make the stem segments of Epiphyllum oxypetalum turn yellow and even scorch them, but with insufficient light, Epiphyllum oxypetalum will not bloom. Around midday in summer, avoid direct sunlight. Higher temperatures are not much of a problem, but low temperatures in winter easily cause cold damage; generally there is no problem as long as it does not go below zero.
2. How do you take cuttings of Epiphyllum oxypetalum?
Cut a branch with lush foliage from an old Epiphyllum oxypetalum plant; one that has already flowered is best. Soak it in water. If the branch is about one chi long, the part soaked in water need only be about ten cm or so. After about half a month, small roots begin to grow from the soaked part, and afterward the small roots gradually increase and lengthen. When they are about five cm long, it can be moved into a pot and planted; it survives very easily. In summer and autumn it can bloom in about two months.