A Detailed Guide to the Latest Cultivation Methods and Precautions for the Yew

The yew does not look very beautiful, but it can release oxygen and purify indoor air, making it an essential flowering plant for the home. What are the cultivation methods for the yew? What problems should be noted when cultivating the yew? Below, the editor of Qiannong Network will introduce the cultivation methods and precautions for the yew!

Cultivation Methods for the Yew

1. Climate environment for cultivation: The most important thing is that the climate must be suitable. The yew grows in subtropical and tropical regions, where the climate must be humid and rainy year-round. Of course, this is also related to the variety, except for the Japanese yew (Taxus cuspidata).

2. Daily care

① Watering: It likes moisture but is not tolerant of waterlogging. Frequently spray water on the leaf surface. Do not water if the potting soil is not dry; when watering, water thoroughly.

② Fertilizing: Apply fertilizer frequently and lightly. The growing season of the yew is from March to October each year, and the dormant period is from November to February. For fertilizing, in early March to April apply a round of rapeseed cake, which is nitrogen fertilizer, then apply a diluted fermented rapeseed cake liquid once every about 20 days, which meets the needs of the growing season.

③ Pruning and shaping: Begin pruning in February each year. During the growing season, it is best not to disturb it.

3. Only yews in the seedling stage are shade plants (the three years after sprouting are all the seedling stage). After three years, the yew is no longer a shade plant and should gradually be exposed to sunlight. In adulthood, it needs direct full sunlight, otherwise it will also fail. Many households place yews older than 3 years indoors, which leads to poor growth due to lack of light and eventually death.

4. Pests and diseases: All are managed the same as ordinary plants and other flowers. Spray diluted Bordeaux mixture several times before the plum rain season, and if there are insects, use diluted dimethoate.

Care of Yew Bonsai

1. For newly purchased yew bonsai, when new buds have just sprouted, try not to spray fertilizer solution on the leaf surface, because at this time the yew bonsai has not truly survived or the leaves are too tender. If fertilized at this time, the tender leaves or buds will shrink and curl. This will affect the normal sprouting of new roots. Do not spray too much clean water on the leaf surface; the degree should be that water droplets can be seen on the leaf surface but do not drip down. Spray two hours before dark in the afternoon, and do not leave water droplets at night (especially not when the amount is relatively large), otherwise it will affect the normal growth of tender leaves or the leaves will turn yellow, affecting the healthy growth of the plant. (The underside of the leaves can be sprayed more than the upper side, because the upper side of the leaf has a waxy protective film that hinders the absorption of nutrients and water, while the underside of the leaf has no waxy layer, has more stomata, and has a stronger ability to absorb water and fertilizer. Therefore, the underside absorbs faster and more than the leaf surface.) Depending on the situation and temperature, do it once a day or two or three times a day. Note that indoor ventilation and air exchange are needed frequently.

2. For newly purchased yew bonsai, because transplanting from the planting base into the pot causes damage to part of the root system, the nutrient supply between the roots and branches and leaves becomes unbalanced. Especially for those bonsai with luxuriant branches and leaves, the transpiration on the leaf surface is greater than the absorption by the root system. When the potting soil remains moist, the top leaves may curl and dry up. At this time, it is best to properly prune the branches and leaves to reduce excessive consumption of water and nutrients by the branches and leaves and help the root system recover growth as soon as possible. At the same time, control watering and keep the potting soil slightly dry to facilitate the rapid growth of root fibers and speed up the restoration of normal nutrient supply. At the same time, the yew has a strong sprouting ability, especially new branches have strong growth ability and are very tolerant of pruning. After survival, it will soon sprout new branches and new leaves. When necessary, a plant rooting or root-increasing agent can be used to water the potting soil once every about seven days, for three or four consecutive times (use a product of good quality and do not use too much water at the same time) so that the root system can grow quickly and healthily. This will restore the supply balance between roots and leaves as soon as possible and allow the yew to grow well.

3. Because the yew bonsai is planted in a pot, the nutrients are limited and can only provide about half a year of growth needs, or the current plant shape is relatively large and nutrient consumption is great, so consumers are advised to replace the original pot as soon as possible after purchase. Because our company gives the bonsai a recovery period in the pot of more than one month, and it is stored for a period of time at the distributor, and in addition the yew likes fertile and loose soil. It is best to repot as soon as possible. When repotting, calculate by the inner diameter of the flower pot; the inner diameter of the new pot should be at least 5 cm larger. Do this in February or March each year before new buds sprout. When the potting soil is neither dry nor wet, tip the tree and potting soil out together. Try not to break the original soil ball. If after survival too many roots are found, the bad roots can be properly trimmed off. Place the tree into the new pot, fill nutrient soil around it, and press it gently and firmly. Only when the soil in the pot is in close contact with the roots can the survival rate be improved; otherwise the plant is not easy to survive or does not grow vigorously. But do not press the soil too firmly either. If it is too firm, the roots cannot breathe air, which will cause root rot and plant death. After planting, immediately water thoroughly once. Then place the pot in a cool place for a few days. After watering, the potting soil should not be turned or pressed again, otherwise the potting soil is prone to compaction, or the soil is too firm and poorly aerated, easily causing root rot.

4. Fertilization methods for yew bonsai: The three major elements of plant growth are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium fertilizers. Nitrogen fertilizer can promote the growth of flowers, grass, branches, and leaves; phosphorus fertilizer can promote the formation of flowers and fruits; potassium fertilizer can promote the growth of stems and roots. Because bonsai are cultivated in the limited space of a pot and in limited cultivation soil, organic matter is decomposed by bacteria into inorganic salts and absorbed by the roots. As the yew grows and consumes nutrients, the nutrients in the potting soil gradually become insufficient, resulting in an inability to supply the needs of growth. Although prepared nutrient soil is used in the bonsai, do not fertilize within three months after purchase. Just water with about a 1000-fold potassium dihydrogen phosphate solution or spray it on the leaf surface once every seven to ten days in the evening. Control the amount of watering; do not water too much. Only when the leaf color becomes lighter, the plant becomes thin and weak, the leaves turn yellow-white, the leaf edges and leaf tips show “dry-burnt edges”, and the leaves age prematurely and fall, apply a 1000-fold urea solution or an 800-fold potassium sulfate quick-dissolving high-quality compound fertilizer solution after removing sediment and water the potting soil. Apply once every about one month. It is best to use fully decomposed diluted bean cake fertilizer water (about 10%-15%). When applying, avoid the trunk area and apply as much as possible along the pot wall, once every half month. On the second day after fertilizing, water once more with clean water to dilute it in case the applied fertilizer is too concentrated. The above two fertilizers can be used alternately, or two small holes can be dug in each pot and five or six granules of urea and seven or eight granules of high-quality compound fertilizer placed inside. Then cover with soil and water so the fertilizer dissolves. Yew bonsai should avoid raw fertilizer and concentrated fertilizer. Topdressing should mainly be nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizer, and must not be too concentrated.

5. Watering methods for bonsai: The principle is “do not water if not dry; when watering, water thoroughly.”

Water is an important component of the body of flowers and trees. All life activities of flowers and trees must be carried out with the participation of water. Whether photosynthesis or transpiration, water is indispensable. Water can maintain the turgor pressure of cells and keep branches and leaves upright. But if the limit is exceeded, the plant will instead grow thin and weak. If there is too much water in the potting soil for a long time, it will cause the leaves to turn yellow, leaf drop, root rot, and even death.

① If the surface color of the potting soil becomes slightly lighter and the leaves are slightly curled, and when you press the potting soil with your fingers it feels somewhat soft, and when you tap the upper middle part of the pot body lightly with your finger joints the sound is relatively dull, then the potting soil does not need watering. Just spray the leaf surface to supplement the water in the leaves. When the soil surface turns white, pressing with your fingers feels relatively hard, a ring of cracks appears between the pot and the soil, tapping the upper middle part of the pot body lightly with your finger joints gives a “bang bang” crisp sound, and the young shoots and young leaves wilt, then the potting soil should be watered. Before watering, press the cracks between the soil and the pot firmly with a hard object, then water. Use a large ladle to water; when pouring, the ladle should be close to the pot rim, pour the water in all at once, and water thoroughly in one go so that the potting soil absorbs enough water. If a small amount of water is poured into the pot and after a while water is seen quickly flowing out from the bottom of the pot, it means the soil and pot are not completely pressed firm. Use an object to press tightly the gap between the pot wall and the soil before watering again. When the potting soil structure is normal, after watering it is better for water to slowly seep out from the bottom of the pot in about 40 seconds to one minute. The water temperature for watering must be close to or consistent with the temperature at the time. When using tap water for watering, first place the water in sunlight for about three hours before watering, because light helps decompose oxides in tap water and can raise the water temperature. Water can also be placed in a large basin for half a day or one night before watering. If there are many bonsai, it is best to put the water in a large vat so that the water temperature is as close as possible to the air temperature and soil temperature. Especially in hot seasons, in addition to watering the potting soil, also spray water mist on the leaf surface to keep the leaves moist, which is beneficial to growth. The potting soil can be kept slightly dry and must not be too wet. When there are many pots, be sure to check each pot according to the actual situation, and be careful not to miss watering or overwater.

② Yew leaves are evergreen all year round and are suitable for indoor placement. However, yew bonsai should not be placed at the air outlet of an air conditioner, otherwise the water evaporation from yew leaves will increase, easily causing the yew branches and leaves to dehydrate rapidly and causing the leaves to curl and dry up. If placed in an air-conditioned room and the air conditioner is turned on every day, spray the leaf surface every day to maintain leaf humidity, and place a basin of clean water indoors. If in a heated room in northern winter, keep it farther from the radiator, and place a basin of clean water on the radiator to increase indoor air humidity. In summer and autumn, when the temperature exceeds 30°C, strengthen shading and cooling work, and it can be moved to a ventilated room facing north. If necessary, spray water to cool down, creating a cool and humid environment to benefit yew growth. Also avoid rooms where direct west-facing sunlight shines on the yew bonsai. In winter, control the amount of watering for the bonsai and avoid the potting soil being too wet for a long time. Because in winter the plant grows less vigorously and the leaves evaporate less water, if the potting soil is too wet for a long time, the surface of the potting soil will become compacted and impermeable, easily causing root rot. When cultivating yew indoors, be sure to pay attention to frequent indoor ventilation.

③ The soil for planting yew should be loose, rich in humus, fertile, and slightly acidic (pH=5.5-7). Do not pour leftover tea water into the yew bonsai. If leftover tea water is often poured in, because the tea contains theophylline and other plant alkalies, it will change the soil pH and also have a relatively destructive effect on the organic nutrients in the soil. It inhibits yew growth and also causes excessive soil moisture, hindering potting soil aeration and causing root rot and stem rot. If conditions permit, about once a week at night move the yew bonsai to the balcony to receive dew, and in the morning place it in sunlight for about one or two hours to receive light (before ten o'clock in the morning), which is beneficial to yew growth and improves disease resistance. In summer and autumn, prevent direct west-facing sunlight from shining through the window onto the yew, so as to prevent high temperatures from burning the leaves and affecting ornamental value.

III. Precautions for Cultivating Yew

1. Because the yew tree is small, attention must be paid to regulating light. It needs light but should not be placed in strong light for too long. Generally, in summer and autumn, about two hours of sun before ten in the morning or after five in the afternoon is enough. At ordinary times, receive more scattered sunlight. Otherwise, strong light will burn the leaves and cause the leaf tips to scorch yellow. Also maintain indoor ventilation and air exchange so that poor growth phenomena such as wilting and drooping do not occur due to indoor air being too dry.

2. If a new bonsai shows tender leaves that are dark yellow and lusterless, and the new shoot tips wilt, it is generally caused by watering too frequently and too much, compacted and impermeable soil, and rot of part of the root fibers, weakening the ability to absorb water and fertilizer. For mild symptoms, control the amount of watering, use a hard and blunt object to gently loosen the surface soil of the pot to make the potting soil breathable, move it at night to a place where it can receive dew, and move it to a cool place at eight or nine in the morning, which is beneficial to the healthy recovery and growth of the root system. If within a short period the leaves yellow and curl, it indicates severe root rot, so immediately repot to check the root rot condition (normal fibrous roots are tender, plump, and white in shape). If more than half are affected, generally it cannot be saved.

3. If old leaves yellow from bottom to top, but new leaves generally grow normally, it is generally caused by not watering thoroughly in one go and applying too little water, resulting in root water shortage. Sometimes the top leaves dry up and curl, and when touched the dry leaves fall off, but the old leaves grow normally, which is generally also caused by root water shortage, and it should be watered thoroughly in one go. When watering, be sure to first press firm the cracks along the pot rim with an object to prevent water from quickly leaking out through the cracks after watering, creating the false appearance of thorough watering; over time this will cause the roots to die from water shortage and the trunk to die. At night move it outdoors to receive more rain and dew, and in the morning and evening receive two hours of sunlight to help the yew recover its growth.

4. The yew is suitable for weakly acidic soil. If irrigated with relatively alkaline water for a long time, it will cause the leaves to turn from green to yellow, and even leaf drop. Therefore, add acidic nutrients or spray the leaves with a 0.2% ferrous sulfate solution or water the potting soil, once every ten days, for three consecutive times. This can make leaves that have yellowed due to alkalinity turn green again.

5. Every year in March and April, the yew will sprout a large number of tender buds, which will consume a large amount of nutrients. At this time, the tender buds growing toward the inside can be removed to prevent the branch shape from being too dense and unventilated, which would cause leaves to yellow or fall off. Thin out crossing branches, inward-facing branches, and leggy branches, which can improve ventilation and light penetration and save excessive consumption of water and nutrients. When tender buds have just sprouted, it is best not to spray liquid fertilizer on the leaf surface or apply concentrated fertilizer at the roots.

6. For normal fertilization amount, if urea alone is used for topdressing nitrogen fertilizer, the concentration is generally 0.1%; if potassium dihydrogen phosphate alone is used for topdressing phosphorus fertilizer, the concentration used is 0.1% to 0.2%. The interval between topdressings is seven to ten days.