What to Do When Pothos Leaves Have Black Spots? Here's the Right Way to Fix It

What to do when pothos leaves have black spots - I believe this is something that gives many friends a real headache. As for what to do when pothos leaves have black spots, today we're here to offer some tips, so let's take a look together at what to do when pothos leaves have black spots!

What to do when pothos leaves have black spots?

1. The pothos may have leaf spot disease; besides this, it is also prone to root rot. Prevention and treatment methods:

① Remove the diseased leaves and make sure there is good ventilation.

② During the disease period, spray with a 500-fold dilution of 50% carbendazim wettable powder, and it can also be used to drench the roots.

2. Poor ventilation can cause black spots on pothos leaves. The prevention and treatment method is to remove the diseased leaves and ensure good ventilation.

3. It may be due to low temperatures. During the day, give it more sun; at night, bring it indoors, but do not put it in the bedroom, as it releases carbon dioxide at night, which is not good for your health.

What are the care tips?

1. Light: The pothos's original growing conditions are in forests shaded by towering trees, so its sun-loving tendency is not strong. However, in the north during autumn and winter, to make up for the lack of temperature and photosynthesis, its light exposure should be increased. The method is to place the pothos in the brightest spot indoors, or move it to a sealed balcony at noon to sunbathe. At the same time, when temperatures are low, open windows as little as possible, because in a very short time the leaves may be frostbitten.

2. Temperature: In the north, with a room temperature above 10°C, pothos can safely overwinter; with a room temperature above 20°C, pothos can grow normally. Generally, households have no problem reaching this temperature. What needs attention is avoiding too great a temperature difference, and also making sure the leaves do not get close to heating equipment.

3. Humidity: This refers to the moisture content of the air in the plant's growing environment. Under the condition of ensuring normal temperature, increasing humidity is extremely beneficial to plant growth. The following methods can be used to increase humidity. Place the plant near a humidifier; if the humidifier is run for more than 5 hours a day, the plant can enjoy the mist sprayed out by the humidifier; use a sprayer adjusted to the mist setting to spray water on the plant's leaves, stems, and aerial roots, several times a day; keep an appropriate amount of water in the flower pot saucer to increase the plant's local humidity through evaporation; gently wipe the leaf surface with a cold wet towel or toilet paper, or apply a light compress to the leaf surface for a short time (1-2 hours per day); cover the plant with transparent plastic film to create a mini greenhouse effect, supplementing the plant's moisture through evaporation of water vapor from the soil, for no more than 2 hours a day, as too long will affect the plant's ventilation and photosynthesis.

4. Water: In autumn and winter, the amount of watering should be strictly controlled according to room temperature. Before heating, the temperature is lower, the soil of the plant evaporates more slowly, and watering should be reduced, with the amount controlled between 1/4 and 1/2 of the original. Even after heating, watering should not be too frequent; when watering, pour less into the pot, and water should seep through the coir. In addition, water should also be sprayed at the places where aerial roots grow on the coir pole, to reduce insufficient root water absorption caused by overly rapid evaporation. In winter, water that has been left to stand for a day after being drawn is better for watering; water that is too cold easily damages the roots.

5. Fertilizer: In the autumn and winter seasons in the north, plants mostly grow slowly or even stop growing, so fertilization should be reduced. Before winter begins, mainly use liquid inorganic fertilizer by watering or spraying, about once every 15 days. After winter begins, fertilization should mainly be foliar spraying, mainly sprayed through the stomata on the leaf surface; the fertilizer is absorbed through the stomata on the leaf surface, and the fertilizer effect can act directly on the leaf surface. Foliar fertilizer should use a special fertilizer; ordinary inorganic fertilizer is not easily absorbed by the leaf surface. Beida Huhuashen series and the Japanese-made Hua Yifan, etc., can all be used as foliar fertilizer.

6. Pothos pole: Pothos does not set seed. Buying from a flower shop or cutting some tender, strong tip cuttings from relatives and friends is enough for it to survive. After the tip cuttings sprout, a pothos pole can be added. The pothos pole has the function of fixed support for the pothos's growth, and can also provide necessary moisture. Usually, when used as a pothos pole, place it in the pot, bury it with a little soil, build a triangle with wooden sticks to fix it, then bury it in the soil; because plants will still grow, the soil should not be too much. Insert sprouted pothos seedlings into the soil. Generally speaking, the denser the pothos seedlings in the pot, the better they look after growing out; about 4-5 plants should be planted in one pot. Use string to tie the seedlings on one side and fix them to the coir pole on the other, watering toward the coir pole to keep it moist. After some days, the pothos's aerial roots will take root and grow inside the coir pole. The best time to add the pothos pole is at the turn of spring and summer; in winter, when temperatures are low, the seedlings are easily injured, so when adding the pole, pay attention to keeping the temperature right.