What are the latest propagation methods for pothos?
Pothos grows in tropical regions, often climbing over rocks and tree trunks in rainforests. It has strong twining ability and well-developed aerial roots, and can be grown in water. Pothos is usually propagated by cuttings. Let's take a look at the propagation methods for pothos below!
Pothos layering propagation method
Pothos layering is the propagation method with the highest success rate. Press the creeping stems of the pothos into the soil, and once aerial roots grow, they can be cut off and divided.
Pothos water cutting propagation method
Pothos can also be propagated by water cutting of the terminal bud. First cut a tender, sturdy stem section 20-30 cm long, insert it directly into a bottle filled with clean water, and change the water once every 2-3 days. Roots can form and the plant can survive in just over 10 days. Because potted pothos is limited by the pot soil, after being grown for too long the plant tends to age, and the leaves become smaller and fall off. Therefore, after 2 to 3 years of cultivation, it must be repotted or pruned and renewed.
Pothos cutting propagation method
Pothos is usually propagated by cuttings. In late spring and early summer, select a sturdy pothos vine, cut a branch 15 cm to 30 cm long, remove the leaves from 1 to 2 nodes at the base, being careful not to damage the aerial roots, then insert it into plain sand or coal cinders to a depth of 1/3 of the cutting. Water thoroughly and place it in a shaded spot, spray water on the leaves every day or cover with plastic film to retain moisture. As long as the environment is kept no lower than 20°C, the survival rate is above 90%.
1. Cutting selection and treatment: Cuttings should be selected from healthy, pest-free, semi-lignified branches, cut into 10-13 cm lengths, with the lower cut made at a slant and 2-3 leaves kept at the upper end. Cut the leaves in half to reduce water evaporation and help the cuttings survive.
2. Cutting medium: The cutting medium should be loose, breathable, well-drained loam or sandy soil rich in humus. Vermiculite is best, as it allows fast rooting and a high survival rate. Before inserting, disinfect the soil with 2% formalin or 5% potassium permanganate.
3. Cutting method: Quickly dip the lower end of the prepared cutting in ABT rooting powder or indolebutyric acid, then insert it into the prepared medium to half its depth, water thoroughly so that the cutting is in close contact with the medium, then cover with plastic film.
4. Management after insertion
① After insertion, take care to keep the soil moist and the air temperature relatively high. Soil moisture of about 50% is suitable, while air humidity of 80%-90% is best.
② In the early stage of cutting, keep the shade shed at about 80% shading. This prevents direct strong sunlight while ensuring sufficient scattered light, so that leafy cuttings can carry out photosynthesis, which is beneficial for rooting.
③ With the above treatment, roots generally form after about 20 days. The film can then be removed to increase light. At the same time, on sunny summer days still pay attention to spraying the leaves and shading, and in winter pay attention to cold protection. About 10 days after rooting, the plant can be moved into a pot for normal management.